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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-10-2017, 07:38 AM
  #1411  
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
I have same seems it's look great that buggy too with a lot of updated aluminum parts.
Let us know how it goes.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
I'm torn, guys. I wanna pull the trigger, but I'm considering the 4xs carissma buggy. It's $329 at amazon and comes with expensive options out da box. Anyone mulling over both of these?
If you're a previous Tekno owner, that decision will make itself.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
I'm torn, guys. I wanna pull the trigger, but I'm considering the 4xs carissma buggy. It's $329 at amazon and comes with expensive options out da box. Anyone mulling over both of these?
That decision is not even close. Tekno over that Carissma buggy all day long.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
That decision is not even close. Tekno over that Carissma buggy all day long.
Sure, tell me why and how you know over a buggy that was released a couple of days ago and I'll side with you and grab this over the other.

Originally Posted by celt View Post
If you're a previous Tekno owner, that decision will make itself.
Only owned their sway bar kit for my Revo, can't say anything bad about it other than it had plastics that were too soft, but effort and quality control was good. It could of had more thought on engine clearance. That's my Tekno experience.

Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Let us know how it goes.
+1

Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
I have same seems it's look great that buggy too with a lot of updated aluminum parts.
Yes. Seems like a legit and strong effort.

Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Not me. Tekno is on the way now.
Cool. Keep us posted.
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I guess the question I would have is this, are the expensive options the vehicle comes with required? if so, are they options any more? Now don't get me wrong, there are things that are truly great race performance addons that if you get them, thats great. However, if it something that is just more bling than anything else, is that of value.

If you are in the USA and are very price sensitive, your best bet may be to go with tower hobbies and there membership discounts. Its basically 15% off the vehicle, and if you wait for e-cash basically gets it significantly lower in the grand scheme of things.
I'm all about less bling and more function. The option parts included are nice options that appear to be of use in the real world under most conditions. The new hypoid style gears in the diff are appealing in the 2017.

I'd buy the car at my local hobby store to keep their doors open unless the price was a big difference. I'm not so sensitive on price, but am looking to get the most bang for buck. Carbon arm inserts are $50 on a D413. Alum hubs are $30, Aluminum steering rack is around $30 on other cars.. That's over $100 in parts that I'd have to fork out in my D413.

Nonetheless, the Tekno is still very Appealing.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
I'm not so sensitive on price, but am looking to get the most bang for buck. Carbon arm inserts are $50 on a D413. Alum hubs are $30, Aluminum steering rack is around $30 on other cars.. That's over $100 in parts that I'd have to fork out in my D413.

Nonetheless, the Tekno is still very Appealing.
Anyone with experience with tekno vehicles, knows it will be a no brainer. Tekno engineers stuff so you don't need any of the other crap you mentioned. Tekno's don't need bling, they just do work, and finish races.

I had a 2015 XB4, 2 years ago. After that short experiment, and a short one with the B5M, I have went most everything tekno for a reason. I haven't even once considered a 10th scale buggy of any sort since then until now.

I have full confidence that tekno has done their homework, and produced a quality rig right out of the box. In addition to that, they've shown in the past, that if an issue presents itself, they are quick to remedy it.

And I've said it before, I am not sponsored by, or affiliated with, Tekno. I have no obligation to like or recommend their stuff. I do because it works.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Anyone with experience with tekno vehicles, knows it will be a no brainer. Tekno engineers stuff so you don't need any of the other crap you mentioned. Tekno's don't need bling, they just do work, and finish races.

I had a 2015 XB4, 2 years ago. After that short experiment, and a short one with the B5M, I have went most everything tekno for a reason. I haven't even once considered a 10th scale buggy of any sort since then until now.

I have full confidence that tekno has done their homework, and produced a quality rig right out of the box. In addition to that, they've shown in the past, that if an issue presents itself, they are quick to remedy it.

And I've said it before, I am not sponsored by, or affiliated with, Tekno. I have no obligation to like or recommend their stuff. I do because it works.
I have full confidence that it's gonna be a very nice offering the first time out. Only thing I can question is not having a laydown servo for lower cg. They would know if that was an engineering consideration or not.

I had similar experience with an xb2 and it didn't do so much for me out the box, I dumped it for my D216. Still, it was a good car, mostly.

All the crap I mentioned has its own merits. It can be bling and do nothing, or it can be used as a tunning tool to compliment your driving style or what you are after. It's up to the person and trial and error will determine whether it's crap or not- pro drivers will tell you the same thing when they are trying to extract the very last adjustability out of a specific platform. Example, Ronnefalk guy just released a video on yt describing the merits of arm plates and are stiffness in his racing program.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:12 AM
  #1417  
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Originally Posted by mustangkillaz View Post
Sure, tell me why and how you know over a buggy that was released a couple of days ago and I'll side with you and grab this over the other.

Only owned their sway bar kit for my Revo, can't say anything bad about it other than it had plastics that were too soft, but effort and quality control was good. It could of had more thought on engine clearance. That's my Tekno experience.

+1

Yes. Seems like a legit and strong effort.


Cool. Keep us posted.
I'm all about less bling and more function. The option parts included are nice options that appear to be of use in the real world under most conditions. The new hypoid style gears in the diff are appealing in the 2017.

I'd buy the car at my local hobby store to keep their doors open unless the price was a big difference. I'm not so sensitive on price, but am looking to get the most bang for buck. Carbon arm inserts are $50 on a D413. Alum hubs are $30, Aluminum steering rack is around $30 on other cars.. That's over $100 in parts that I'd have to fork out in my D413.

Nonetheless, the Tekno is still very Appealing.
Your LHS carries Carrisma? In the US? The complete lack of any real support in the
US means bad things for the future. I have seen so many guys with PRS, Team C, Caster, VBC who can't even give these cars away after they get tired of fighting
with the crappy US support. Some of these brands are actually quite popular in europe but with the revolving door of US distributors you never know what's gonna
happen from one day to the next.

Honestly if you live in the states this is a really simple decision. If your oversees somewhere Carrisma has a presence it might be a different situation.

By the way its super easy for your LHS to get signed up with Tekno and carry there
products.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:44 AM
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Yea JSk is right, when I buy a kit I always consider its resale value. Those unpopular brands are near impossible to sale. If you decide to sell you tekno,it is always an easy sale. Look at the D216. Hard sell
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Yea JSk is right, when I buy a kit I always consider its resale value. Those unpopular brands are near impossible to sale. If you decide to sell you tekno,it is always an easy sale. Look at the D216. Hard sell
D216 is solid, but parts availability in the past and special deals on new ones is the reason for this.

All good things to consider.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Your LHS carries Carrisma? In the US? The complete lack of any real support in the
US means bad things for the future. I have seen so many guys with PRS, Team C, Caster, VBC who can't even give these cars away after they get tired of fighting
with the crappy US support. Some of these brands are actually quite popular in europe but with the revolving door of US distributors you never know what's gonna
happen from one day to the next.

Honestly if you live in the states this is a really simple decision. If your oversees somewhere Carrisma has a presence it might be a different situation.

By the way its super easy for your LHS to get signed up with Tekno and carry there
products.
All good considerations.
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:34 PM
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6th, 7th, and 9th after round 1 for the guys at Vegas. Mans was on another planet. 18 laps with a few wrecks

And Matt with a 3rd in 13.5 shows the car is competitive. It should only get better with time
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
6th, 7th, and 9th after round 1 for the guys at Vegas. Mans was on another planet. 18 laps with a few wrecks
consistent 17's with one in the 16's...wow

Ryan doesn't look comfortable yet, Going to take time.

Mr. Matt though....Good run in 13.5t class buuuuudy!!
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:55 PM
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Any estimate on when parts will be available to buy from Amain or Tekno? I mean if I'm gonna have to wait for Tower to send me my kit, I might as well order some CF goodies in the meantime lol
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Any estimate on when parts will be available to buy from Amain or Tekno? I mean if I'm gonna have to wait for Tower to send me my kit, I might as well order some CF goodies in the meantime lol
Fastpete aka FirceRC says on the site on thursday.
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Old 10-10-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Any estimate on when parts will be available to buy from Amain or Tekno? I mean if I'm gonna have to wait for Tower to send me my kit, I might as well order some CF goodies in the meantime lol
We were told they would be trailing behind. Initially it was believed to be about a week. Keep in mind that information is a few weeks old, so it could have changed 20 times since then.
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