Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC EB410 Thread >

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Like Tree2336Likes

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesnít rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 11-15-2017, 06:31 AM
  #2311  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin,TX
Posts: 3,473
Trader Rating: 31 (97%+)
Default

Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken View Post
You guys put the piston on the shaft, then drill? Or, hold it? Any tips on that perspective?
I held the piston in between my index finger and thumb... bored out the stock 1.7mm holes to 2.0mm with a regular drill, no fancy press. Scraped away shavings with a hobby knife, then used a sharpie to label 2.0 on each piston.

I've been meaning to try 2.1mm but had too many other setup changes to play with first. I kinda like using the same fluids front/rear with the 1.7/2.0 setup
billdelong is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 06:45 AM
  #2312  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 198
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken View Post
You guys put the piston on the shaft, then drill? Or, hold it? Any tips on that perspective?
I removed the shaft/piston from the shock. Cleaned and dried off everything. Then drilled the piston with it attached to the shaft. Went from 1.8 to 2.0mm in the rear. Cleaned off the left over shavings
charvel74 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 06:46 AM
  #2313  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,599
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Axial also make a similar m3x35mm screw, AXLA0125.
these should be at my house tomorrow
HeavyD99 and billdelong like this.
Bob Barry is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 07:34 AM
  #2314  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 97
Default

Originally Posted by Norse View Post
You may want to try them out. Well worth trying if the are 3mm. If not the OFNA/HOBaO 3mm by 35 are a perfect fit and under $3.00 for two at NitroHouse
So the tlr front ones are 40mm (with a hex on one end and nut on the other). The rear axle ones are also 40mm but require a nut on either end.

Haven't opened my box yet so I can't really measure but worse case could shim the 5mm or just fork out the $5
nesbot is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:18 AM
  #2315  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 725
Default

Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I'm measuring an increase of 0.4g per side of un-sprung weight after making this modification, seems negligible and worth it to me.

*** I also used a 3.05mm reamer (Kyosho) chucked into my drill to bore out the captured end of the arm
Bill,
Probably use a narrow, aluminum nut. May shave a few grams.
billdelong likes this.
WallyRC is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:50 AM
  #2316  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin,TX
Posts: 3,473
Trader Rating: 31 (97%+)
Default

Originally Posted by WallyRC View Post
Bill,
Probably use a narrow, aluminum nut. May shave a few grams.
nice call, I've seen some aluminum nuts for 4mm threads, I'll have to look around for some 3mm aluminum nuts, plus it probably wouldn't hurt to dremel off the excessive threads beyond the nut too.
billdelong is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:55 AM
  #2317  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
sickpuppy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gardner,KS
Posts: 1,623
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Why has no one mentioned the eb410 and the Worlds? None there?
sickpuppy1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:57 AM
  #2318  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
 
rayzcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sickpuppy1 View Post
Why has no one mentioned the eb410 and the Worlds? None there?
https://www.facebook.com/lutzrc/posts/1546015025433803
billdelong and EbbTide like this.
rayzcar is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:57 AM
  #2319  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,031
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sickpuppy1 View Post
Why has no one mentioned the eb410 and the Worlds? None there?
I think Ryan Lutz might be the only one wheeling it as a last minute thing. I saw a post about him going last minute on FB.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 09:05 AM
  #2320  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,478
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I think Ryan Lutz might be the only one wheeling it as a last minute thing. I saw a post about him going last minute on FB.
There are a couple of foreign drivers running it too. Not A main level drivers though.
MX304 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 11:05 AM
  #2321  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (96)
 
thumper_pa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: freedom,pa
Posts: 2,019
Trader Rating: 96 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
anybody can update the wiki, that's the point of a collaborative page, however I'm not seeing any bits in the 2.0mm - 3.0mm range, if you can post a link to that comparable set, I'd be happy to update the wiki, I realize it can be a little intimidating for some who might not be comfortable with the embedded tagging format.
Man guys Iím sorry I donít know whatís going on but I bought 2.05-3mm bits on Nov / 09 / 2017 boy I feel like an idiot but hereís the proof I bought them donít know why there magically gone all of a sudden but your 100% right they donít exist anymore on that companies website
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB410 Thread-f0afdc45-6af9-4062-baa3-b6af6ed7c833.jpeg  
billdelong likes this.
thumper_pa is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 12:24 PM
  #2322  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,031
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Welp probably another week of waiting for me before I get to wire this thing up. My ESC tray from Raceform went from Singapore to Germany instead of straight to the states so until that gets in I'm just going to admire all of the carbon fiber and possibly paint my body this weekend if weather permits

PS: I did a weight comparison of just the stock towers and the Tekno CF towers.

Stock towers: 30 grams total
Tekno CF towers: 20 grams total

I'm going to take off the Diggity CF camber plates tonight as well and see what those weigh in at compared to the aluminum bits.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 12:26 PM
  #2323  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,063
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by thumper_pa View Post
Man guys Iím sorry I donít know whatís going on but I bought 2.05-3mm bits on Nov / 09 / 2017 boy I feel like an idiot but hereís the proof I bought them donít know why there magically gone all of a sudden but your 100% right they donít exist anymore on that companies website
They're probably like many other small places and just sell what they get, and then don't have it on the site anymore, so stock/items will vary each time you visit the site.
justpoet is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 12:31 PM
  #2324  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 198
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Welp probably another week of waiting for me before I get to wire this thing up. My ESC tray from Raceform went from Singapore to Germany instead of straight to the states so until that gets in I'm just going to admire all of the carbon fiber and possibly paint my body this weekend if weather permits

PS: I did a weight comparison of just the stock towers and the Tekno CF towers.

Stock towers: 30 grams total
Tekno CF towers: 20 grams total

I'm going to take off the Diggity CF camber plates tonight as well and see what those weigh in at compared to the aluminum bits.
I ordered the lean towers and electronics tray also. Says mine left Singapore Nov 9th. No update since????
charvel74 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 12:34 PM
  #2325  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,031
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
I ordered the lean towers and electronics tray also. Says mine left Singapore Nov 9th. No update since????
Mine left Singapore the same day (9th) and the tracking just updated this morning. Try checking again and see if you get an update now. I assume ours are going on the same shipment.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service