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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-01-2017, 11:36 AM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Really nice mini 1/8th so far!
The center diff/motor mount is killing me, why is it so high?
Would it be possible to run the shocks upside down with optional caps?
It's no higher than any other car running a 81 tooth spur gear, it's literally as low as possible without cutting a hole in the chassis.

We've never tried or considered running the shocks upside down so I don't know.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:40 AM
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With the electronics and lipo sitting 1.5mm lower in the milled sections the weight of these accessorys helps having LCG. Probably helps offset the motor mount having a tad higher center of gravity. Possibly also done if the layout is designed for the servo to sit centerline with the front drive shaft over. With the front drive shaft only 1 degree of decline from the center diff to front diff that may also indicate the servo is centerline with the appearance of the motormount and c diff sitting higher. Looks to be attached 1.5mm higher on the chassis thus not on the non milled out (recessed) chassis areas. I guess will know next Friday. The buggy looks amazing and is really unique compared to other shaft driven wheelers,
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:43 AM
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Seriously that car looks like it could take a bullet. Or a freight train.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Really nice mini 1/8th so far!
The center diff/motor mount is killing me, why is it so high?
Would it be possible to run the shocks upside down with optional caps?
I don't think the motor mount is higher than any other buggy. Might just be the angle of the photo. Besides, the whole motor area is recessed in the chassis.

As for the shocks being upside down I'm not sure why you would want to do that. You increase unsprung weight. Now the whole shock body/oil needs to move up and down and for a 13mm shock that means a lot of weight moving vs just the shaft/piston.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
You can see the servo in this shot:
Your right I guess that answers servo position and orientation as it Definetly appears to be upright and on the left side. I guess the milled pockets in the chassis may make the motor mount and CDiff appear higher than it is. It can be really hard to gauge depth, height demension etc in pictures. Or reversed it can be hard to capture the above mentioned via pictures. Looks amazing and very easy to see that Tekno went balls out via time, money, testing etc to bring the goods to the people.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:50 AM
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I love astroturf.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:55 AM
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Servo could also be propped keeping things a surprise. Who knows, all I know is it is fun seeing Tekno slowly release info, as the excitement builds.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:15 PM
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I think the big thing with the servo I'll be curious about is if there is an width restrictions on the servo for some common ones. The high power futaba servo I use is like 1mm fatter than normal servos. It caused issues in my durango DEX410v5 and bulged the SCT410.3 mounts. Stupid fast and powerful though
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
The center diff/motor mount is killing me, why is it so high?
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Maybe clearance for the spur relative to the gearing trying to be acheived? Durango was the same way.
Thanks, that is a very likely explanation, the diagonal motor mounting screws also support it.

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
It's no higher than any other car running a 81 tooth spur gear, it's literally as low as possible without cutting a hole in the chassis.
Thanks, it might be just the detailed picture without context has deceived my eyes. Love the integrated fan mount!

Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Would it be possible to run the shocks upside down with optional caps?
We've never tried or considered running the shocks upside down so I don't know.
Some had success with it on TLR cars, so might be worth trying it.

Originally Posted by littleZEN View Post
I don't think the motor mount is higher than any other buggy. Might just be the angle of the photo. Besides, the whole motor area is recessed in the chassis.
That's entirely possible.
As for the shocks being upside down I'm not sure why you would want to do that. You increase unsprung weight. Now the whole shock body/oil needs to move up and down and for a 13mm shock that means a lot of weight moving vs just the shaft/piston.
Some had success with this setup on smooth carpet, where the increased corner speed from lower CG could offset the compromised bump/jump handling caused by higher unsprung weight.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I think the big thing with the servo I'll be curious about is if there is an width restrictions on the servo for some common ones. The high power futaba servo I use is like 1mm fatter than normal servos. It caused issues in my durango DEX410v5 and bulged the SCT410.3 mounts. Stupid fast and powerful though
Cain, I think you will be g2g regarding slightly larger servo. Imagine Tekno took into account that standard size servos can very in size thus some bigger, some are tad thicker, or wider or even tad taller than others. This wheeler really appears to have a decent amount of space per its fron 2/3rds and the body appears to provide a decent sized dome over the front half. I see the servo in the pick standing upright in the left front but wonder if it's just sitting there thus maybe a prop with the rest of the unveil being revealed next Friday.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:53 PM
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Boy I bet you guys are excited for this buggy. It looks good/cool in the pics. Gonna put the pressure on xray, although the only thing that bothers me w/ the xray is the e-clips in shocks. Outdrives wear a little fast as well on the xray.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:54 PM
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I am going to guess the servos orientation is not going to be as seen in the pic. I may be way wrong but seems with having the reversed bell crank it would lay flat and maybe center line. Can't wait to see
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
I am going to guess the servos orientation is not going to be as seen in the pic. I may be way wrong but seems with having the reversed bell crank it would lay flat and maybe center line. Can't wait to see
Given the location of the ball stud that the servo link will connect to, my money (all $18.32 of it) is on that picture being accurate. The pockets milled in the chassis also support the probability of the servo being in that location.

Now, the only question I have is can you use a shorty and mount it lower or will there just be a large gap under the servo. My guess is they have spacers to mount it nice and low.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
I am going to guess the servos orientation is not going to be as seen in the pic. I may be way wrong but seems with having the reversed bell crank it would lay flat and maybe center line. Can't wait to see
With the looks of the bellcrank height, I'd lean to the effect that is the correct orientation. The ball is high up on the rear of the housing, and to keep the horn level and in line with the servo like others. It may just be up there.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
Now, the only question I have is can you use a shorty and mount it lower or will there just be a large gap under the servo. My guess is they have spacers to mount it nice and low.
I was actually thinking about this and you'll probably just have a space below the LP servo to keep everything else in line.



BTW, I got distracted before submitting my last post., great minds think alike.
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