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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesnít rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-18-2017, 06:09 PM
  #1711  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Anyone running 13.5 in this buggy using plastic pinions to keep rotational mass down a tad? I'm considering this if I have to use the stock spur on my initial build.
I've been running the same plastic Parma pinion gear in both my 13.5T powered ER-14 and K2 over the past 2 years, that pinion has stood the test of time for me and I plan to run it in my EB410 too... if the darn kit will ever get here, ha!
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Old 10-18-2017, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I've been running the same plastic Parma pinion gear in both my 13.5T powered ER-14 and K2 over the past 2 years, that pinion has stood the test of time for me and I plan to run it in my EB410 too... if the darn kit will ever get here, ha!
This is a bit more comforting to hear since I have a good range of the 175rc pinions but I have almost no aluminum pinions that'd work right now lol.

And I feel your pain man, I have been staring at an empty space on my desk since people started getting kits and I'd rather it be full of parts from the build right about now
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Old 10-18-2017, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I've been running the same plastic Parma pinion gear in both my 13.5T powered ER-14 and K2 over the past 2 years, that pinion has stood the test of time for me and I plan to run it in my EB410 too... if the darn kit will ever get here, ha!
5 or six packs on the first day, no issues at all. With this and white grease on the diff gears I had one of the quietest wheelers out there.Pretty good trick for a Tekno
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Old 10-18-2017, 07:59 PM
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OK...so just got back from OCRC. Track was medium to slightly high grip in some spots today. So the car was not good...it was GREAT!!! I initially had a on power push, but that was because I put on transistors on the front anticipating insane steering, I then switched to electrons and moved the rear arms forward 2mm..BAM!! full second faster than my 22 4 and Xray and that was after 2 runs. Car felt very easy yet nimble to drive, felt very comfortable with it quickly. I ran the car box stock, stock fluids and setup except for the wheel base change per Jake Thayers recommendation. I also tried space Bars, Positrons and Dirt Webs, I settled on slightly worn Dirt webs as it hooked up great, Space Bars were great also. The car was little too planted in the back with the Space Bars and this was with brand new ones. Anyone concerned about this car being loose on medium grip clay track with stock setup should have no concerns at all. Car jumps, lands as good if not better than my 22 4 2.0...This thing sticks and goes like no other I have driven. I honestly have zero issues with this car from the build to driving, as a matter a fact I would have raced it tonight over my Losi or Xray, but could'nt stay for racing..that is how good the car felt. I seriously would suggest trying it box stock first before changing anything. One thing to note, I removed the center diff just to inspect and it is a little tricky getting it back in..not a big deal, once you do it a few times it goes right in.

I have to say for Tekno's first shot at 4wd 1/10 buggy they got it right..hats off

Last edited by AJrollin; 10-18-2017 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
OK...so just got back from OCRC. Track was medium to slightly high grip in some spots today. So the car was not good...it was GREAT!!! I initially had a on power push, but that was because I put on transistors on the front anticipating insane steering, I then switched to electrons and moved the rear arms forward 2mm..BAM!! full second faster than my 22 4 and Xray and that was after 2 runs. Car felt very easy yet nimble to drive, felt very comfortable with it quickly. I ran the car box stock, stock fluids and setup except for the wheel base change per Jake Thayers recommendation. I also tried space Bars, Positrons and Dirt Webs, I settled on slightly worn Dirt webs as it hooked up great, Space Bars were great also. The car was little too planted in the back with the Space Bars and this was with brand new ones. Anyone concerned about this car being loose on medium grip clay track with stock setup should have no concerns at all. Car jumps, lands as good if not better than my 22 4 2.0...This thing sticks and goes like no other I have driven. I honestly have zero issues with this car from the build to driving, as a matter a fact I would have raced it tonight over my Losi or Xray, but could'nt stay for racing..that is how good the car felt. I seriously would suggest trying it box stock first before changing anything. One thing to note, I removed the center diff just to inspect and it is a little tricky getting it back in..not a big deal, once you do it a few times it goes right in.

I have to say for Tekno's first shot at 4wd 1/10 buggy they got it right..hats off
That is what I needed to here! Also happy to see Jake willing to help out with this car(again he helps with every car). Itís moving from in the cart to order done. Thanks! See you at OCRC
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin View Post
OK...so just got back from OCRC. Track was medium to slightly high grip in some spots today. So the car was not good...it was GREAT!!! I initially had a on power push, but that was because I put on transistors on the front anticipating insane steering, I then switched to electrons and moved the rear arms forward 2mm..BAM!! full second faster than my 22 4 and Xray and that was after 2 runs. Car felt very easy yet nimble to drive, felt very comfortable with it quickly. I ran the car box stock, stock fluids and setup except for the wheel base change per Jake Thayers recommendation. I also tried space Bars, Positrons and Dirt Webs, I settled on slightly worn Dirt webs as it hooked up great, Space Bars were great also. The car was little too planted in the back with the Space Bars and this was with brand new ones. Anyone concerned about this car being loose on medium grip clay track with stock setup should have no concerns at all. Car jumps, lands as good if not better than my 22 4 2.0...This thing sticks and goes like no other I have driven. I honestly have zero issues with this car from the build to driving, as a matter a fact I would have raced it tonight over my Losi or Xray, but could'nt stay for racing..that is how good the car felt. I seriously would suggest trying it box stock first before changing anything. One thing to note, I removed the center diff just to inspect and it is a little tricky getting it back in..not a big deal, once you do it a few times it goes right in.

I have to say for Tekno's first shot at 4wd 1/10 buggy they got it right..hats off
I ran last Saturday with Positrons front and rear and could not really get rid of the push. The fronts were very new though so I think that was part of it. How would you compare the positrons to space bars on it?
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:43 PM
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I used Positrons in the rear only. Initially they were good, but quickly got loose, they were super soft though and the track was inconsistent today so that may have been the issue. The front I had transistors at first and they pushed pretty good, but the electrons I put on after that made it just right. if I do anything else I may try 10K front diff fluid. Jake told me that the one he drove would literally "cork screw" in to the corner it had so much steering, but that may not have been the stock fluid in it.
Also as a note I did not sauce my tires today just to see how much grip this car had and it was fine..this was with Dirt Web(gold) rear and electron (super soft) in the front. Also I ordered some orange rear springs as this could help with push as the car already has enough grip in the back.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:50 AM
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Matt A
The sway bars have some type of a barcode markings on them and donít state the thickness like in the 1/8 scale.

Is there a chart that tells me what the thickness of the sway bars based on the markings on the bars?

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:58 AM
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Forgive me if this been asked already. Is there a chart comparing the difference in weight of CST vs Wt in oil. I already use AE oil for everything because its easier sticking to a single brand. But I am confused all the Tekno setup sheets show oil in CST. Thanks for any advice
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:43 AM
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I need to confirm just one thing...

Does the car turn? Can stand a car that doesn't turn.

Last edited by celt; 10-19-2017 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
Forgive me if this been asked already. Is there a chart comparing the difference in weight of CST vs Wt in oil. I already use AE oil for everything because its easier sticking to a single brand. But I am confused all the Tekno setup sheets show oil in CST. Thanks for any advice
AE has the cst rating printed on the bottle.
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:36 AM
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Most of the setups that show CST Oil, they are using the PT Racing Oils and they are only listed in CST.
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by CCristo View Post
AE has the cst rating printed on the bottle.
1800kv

Lol I never even noticed that. Just saw a picture online and can see the cst rating on the bottle
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:53 AM
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PT Oil conversion chart added to WiKi
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post

Are the Lunsford turnbuckles different lengths than the the stock turnbuckles as their listed lengths are shorter than the stock parts dimensions. Or is it that they are the the same length, but just have different dimensions listed compared to the stock dimensions listed?
Yes the sizes I listed are different than the stock lengths that come with the kit. They seemed to work better since the Lunsford threads are shorter than ours.

Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken View Post
Alright... So, which brand of drill bits fits best? I have some AE drill bits, and they are a little on the "too big" side.. I almost have to snap the screw/set screw onto it..
MIP Speed Tips are the best for use in a drill. By far!

Originally Posted by keyesgood View Post
Matt did reply to a post I put up . But did not say if he personally had tried it or seen these sizes fit
Those are the length Lunsford turnbuckles that are on my car right now. The fronts work perfectly. The rear is a little long when using the shortest link position. It popped off one of the ball ends when adjusting, had to be careful and hold pressure down on the rod end to get -2 camber. Might be better to use 45mm on the rear when using the shorter link.
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