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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-13-2017, 12:04 PM
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Amain has parts in stock now. No optional spur but definitely the CF goodies. The -2mm tower is more for carpet yeah?
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Amain has parts in stock now. No optional spur but definitely the CF goodies. The -2mm tower is more for carpet yeah?
The -2mm tower adds droop so I would imagine it would be for low traction situations. But I could be wrong.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:15 PM
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My understanding for the -2mm tower was its meant for high grip conditions? I though it lowers the roll center?
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:21 PM
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you know at some point, maybe companies should just not include the plastic horns and include what appears to be the industry standard 25T.

Spoke with Amain, they are looking to find out the part # on the horn.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:24 PM
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I think if you use it with the 2mm diff riser then it would. But just the tower itself will just increase the amount of droop you could potentially run.
Again this is just my understanding of the chart on pg. 25 in the manual.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by E-Mann View Post
A few build notes:
1. When inserting the grub screws in the front or rear hubs, make sure you don't mix them up with the ones that go in the wheel hexes. The longer ones go in the hubs. I accidently did this on the rear and couldn't figure out why the wheel would not go on. Duh....
i did the same! lol was like WTF then realized what happened.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:27 PM
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anyone run theirs on dirt yet? how is the 15/15/7?
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by frdtrkguy View Post
TKR6563A
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
you know at some point, maybe companies should just not include the plastic horns and include what appears to be the industry standard 25T.

Spoke with Amain, they are looking to find out the part # on the horn.
frdtrkguy pointed out the part# yesterday.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
This is the one Jason Snyder was using. I have one. Just haven't finished building my car. I'm waiting for some my bearings to come in before I finish it.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ruddog-...p-0085/p538043
So this will work for the low pro servo mount?? Just want to be sure when placing order. thanks
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Curious if MRC is a new company making transponders or did you mean MRT?
Ha don't ask me here I got MRC!
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I think if you use it with the 2mm diff riser then it would. But just the tower itself will just increase the amount of droop you could potentially run.
Again this is just my understanding of the chart on pg. 25 in the manual.
I decided to just stick with the regular CF tower since it seems the stock setup doesn't call for a -2mm one. As for servo horn choice, I'm gonna use the Tekno alum. horn with the standard mount using a LP servo. Hoping this works out so I can stuff the transponder underneath it all.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by snowninja View Post
i did the same! lol was like WTF then realized what happened.
I almost did the same thing. I noticed it as I was trying to tighten it down, and was like "why won't this thing go down anymore!" Then I looked down at the other parts in my tray and noticed the smaller grub screws just sitting there laughing at me in silence.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Amain has parts in stock now. No optional spur but definitely the CF goodies. The -2mm tower is more for carpet yeah?
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
The -2mm tower adds droop so I would imagine it would be for low traction situations. But I could be wrong.
Read the back of the manual. It explains the option parts for the rear.

If you don't have a manual, download it from teknorc.com
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
frdtrkguy pointed out the part# yesterday.
I am talking about the protek part # for the horn someone mentioned could be used. So not this: TKR6563A

Nowever if that Ruddog horn works I have 2 of them here to try out when time comes. Cheap too, heck was $8.99 at one point.
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug2507
The Kyosho reamer, is it the 3.0mm arm reamer or the 3.05mm straight reamer?

KRF Arm Reamer (3.0mm)

Straight Reamer(3.05)

Originally Posted by EbbTide
It is the 3.05mm reamer. Supposed to give you a perfect bore
Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Thanks for the link to the 3.05mm "Straight Reamer" and clarification, I found one somewhat reasonably priced here:
Kyosho YKW001 Straight Reamer(?3.05) | eBay
So my order arrived in the mail today, just in perfect time too, because I plan to pick up my EB410 at the track tomorrow!

Kinda funny how I was concerned about this reamer taking up too much space in my pit box, it's actually comically small, ha!


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