649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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11-22-2016, 02:37 PM
#4401
Wow those look great. Going to have to look into that.
11-22-2016, 03:31 PM
#4402
11-22-2016, 09:36 PM
#4403
Following on from my B6d build blog, there were a lot of requests to show a shock build. The 2nd post in my Aussie Builds blog will take you through a step by step process on how to build a 1/10 off road shock, easily and consistently.
Any questions don't hesitate to hit me up.
https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...f-road-shocks/
Any questions don't hesitate to hit me up.
https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...f-road-shocks/
11-22-2016, 10:12 PM
#4404
Following on from my B6d build blog, there were a lot of requests to show a shock build. The 2nd post in my Aussie Builds blog will take you through a step by step process on how to build a 1/10 off road shock, easily and consistently.
Any questions don't hesitate to hit me up.
https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...f-road-shocks/
Any questions don't hesitate to hit me up.
https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...f-road-shocks/
11-22-2016, 11:39 PM
#4405
Tech Regular
i see that he has the shocks on the REAR of the arm....is that how people are running his setup? my car already has too much rear grip, ESPECIALLY on corner exit
11-23-2016, 04:22 AM
#4406
Great video. Some good info!
11-23-2016, 04:42 AM
#4407
31mm rear shocks
I'm going to give the 31 mm rear shocks a try on my B6d. Has anyone compared the Schelle and associated shock towers? I know the associated tower is slightly taller and was wondering if there was any noticeable difference?
11-23-2016, 05:50 AM
#4409
wonder how many other battery strap systems could get an adapter plate. My vehicle came with a carbon one that has the battery hold in "spacers" that get closer together on one side (not sure the brand) but the concept that schelle did looks the same.
11-23-2016, 05:53 AM
#4410
About to buy a B6d and add the laydown conversion.
What other hop ups should I buy together for running on clay with slicks ?
What other hop ups should I buy together for running on clay with slicks ?