UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I don't know how it did this. The opposite one looks okay but there is some wear, small metallic specs. Maybe 10 degree casters? The bone is straight as can be. I did find a set on Amain. I will be keeping them lubed from here on out.

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

Simple answer = you plum wore them out!!

If you literally have 100packs on that car, saying conservatively ~5-6mins/per pack.
That's 500-600mins (~10hrs straight) of track time!!!! I don't get that much track time in a season.

You simply cracked one side of the pressed in pin off the universal from 10hrs of racing.. and if you look at the rest of the parts, they aren't worn like I would figure they would be after that much time & use!!

Universals are better performance-wise in many ways... there are tons of articles about the advantages/disadvantages of Universal vs CV vs CVD Joints.. Distance between & number of pivots, etc.. that's even been addressed in this thread, and is why the 22B has Universals as an option part not! AE swore by the Universals(non re-buildable) until they went CV... Shuey still uses and swears by Universals, and they are not re-buildable either.

I'm sure you could contact MIP and they can tell you the pieces you need to make a set for the 22-4 if you want them.. Ive done that before.

Geez... 100packs of run time on any car without replacing major things, just cleaning and maintenance.. I would be bragging about that car, bcz I don't think I've had a car that didn't require replacing gears, axles, outdrive, driveshafts, dog bone, arms, Pins, pivots, ballcups, etc.. after that amount time!

And you haven't mentioned a Belt Failure, after 100packs... I'm truly impressed by that!
Dam, Son.. you've rode that thing hard.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I can not agree with you more.
Heck I can do 8 packs on a practice night easy. And I really have drove the heck out of this kit. Seriously I mean business when I practice and race, and I have done that every Tuesday since I bought it. I have hit the track at least 3 times a week ever since I bought it. And a few of the weeks since its release I have hit the track 5 days a week. We did discuss this tonight. The kit is still tight and we gave it a pretty good looking over. Vs. other kits I have driven they would be all slopped out by now. I did break one front belt after 4 days on the kit. Boo Hoo I had the slipper to tight. Since then I would say I am more than happy with the belts with no issue and a proper slipper adj. I am very pleased with this kit to say the least.

It hit the track on the 25th of Jan. So lets say I have conservatively ran 20 packs a week for 15 weeks. Trust me that's a conservative number. So it would be to date 120 packs. I would be willing to bet more like 150 packs.

So yeah I am very happy that it wore out vs. breaking. I have to say that nothing on this kit has been broken due to poor quality. Breakage has been only when you would expect it to break. And it has not broke more times when it should have than the times it did when it should.

I am attending the March mayhem in 2 weeks so this thing is going to get a complete overhaul. And I meant towers cups diffs you name it shock shafts seals lay shaft. I have stock piled the parts since I bought it. If it breaks from there then I will throw the still good old parts on to fix it. In all honesty It really doesn't need it but its the last big race of the season. I want it a new as possible.

All I can say is aside from the front hinge pins if it broke it should have and if it wore out it should have sooner by any manufacturers standards. And I see they have fixed the hinge pin issue.

I do think the rear axle needs some looking at though. The weight of the kit is the demon there. I have killed 2 one was my fault the other was when I let some one test drive it. It looks like if the threads were shorter they would be stronger??

Any hoot its a long post but the short sweet truth is this kit is solid. And that's good news. I have pounded this kit and I feel that our track is a very good testing ground. Its kept me up front and with stood the test of time in hours. IMO. I have absolutely no disappointment in this kit what so ever.

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

Fastlane is one of my most favorite tracks! I've only been there once, for the JC Indoor in 2012(had to miss 2013), and y'all are very fortunate to such a great indoor place!

I'm planning on being there this year, if the JC race is coming back again!

I still have the pic of the dead deer laying out on the 1/8th track! lol

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I will for sure pass that on to Chuck. I felt bad for that poor deer. I guess he got hit by a car and made it that far. We ended up taking him further back in the woods with the bobcat. That was an odd deal... he sure was a big one.

Dyno Dan

Universal driveshafts create less friction throughout the suspension travel and steering throw compared to CVD's. On bumpy tracks the universals usually allow the suspension to work better throughout the travel. Since the tracks have become more groomed and smooth, the benefits of using uni's aren't fully realized. CVD's bind more (lock-up harder under acceleration) which in some cases produces more mechanical grip which is why almost all 2wds use CVD's/CVA's.

It's pretty amazing that you were able to put over 100 packs through your wheeler, I would say that is a respectable wear rate. I would think that MIP is looking into making a line of replacement driveshaft (uni and CVD) but I can't say for sure.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Ya know thats a good point. Our track is not a blown out bumpy but some what bumpy. This kit really soaks the track up. I am going to note the cvd universal comparison. If they offer a cva in the future it would be a good option track to track.

tlr224

iTrader: (2)

so far i can only find one fault with my 22-4 and that its way to fast for its operator. i am going to have to turn the throttle down some or keep spending time fixing it . i went 4 packs on my 22 2.0 yesterday without stopping but couldnt get through 10 laps with the 22-4 . which is totally my rust of being out of hobby for about 20 years. i must say i was whipping around the track on the 22 2.o but that was with mid motor and stock 17.5 turn motor . nowhere near the speed of the 22-4 with a 7.5 turn motor in it .

drepus

You have the right idea. Turn down the full throttle epa untill you are comfortable then turn it back up a little at a time as you get the flow back.
I see too many guys at our local track trying 4wd for the first time with motors that are too fast for them getting frustrated because they cant keep up with the cars. It wont take long to get used to the increased speed if you start with something you can keep up with.
Have fun and put in those laps!

tlr224

iTrader: (2)

thanks drepus ! i would be doing good for awhile then other cars in practice would distract me and i was going way to fast or the walls are way to strong !!! they say sometimes going slower is faster def true for me ! i say this i can change a arm in no time flat and it isnt weak its if u drive that fast into a wall somethings going to break totally my fault not the cars .

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Maybe I'll put some bicycle chain dry lube on my universals. You can get all kinds of different versions - some thicker, thinner, etc. They all go on wet to soak some of the dry lube into all the places it needs to be they dries off and just leaves non dirt attracting lube. It actually helps repel dirt because it's slippery and sloughs off a little bit over time.

Anybody try that?

http://pedros.com/products/clean-and...e/ice-wax-2-0/
or
http://www.triflowlubricants.com/pro...lubricant.html

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

+1

splashn95

iTrader: (7)

Anyone know if a Mamba Max Pro 1/10 will fit in the limited space that the 22-4 gives ya?

TorcRacing

Thanks for the help. I wasn't able to find any xx4 arms yesterday but that's okay since it sounds like they won't work. I'm headed up to amain after class today to get a couple sets of shuey arms. Track is so hooked up, i dropped 1.3s on my fastest 2wd lap yesterday. I'm ready to get my wheeler running. I'm also going to get some skid plates(noticed my lrc block is getting worn away) and a sway bar set. I hope this fix will work, amain is a 4 hour drive hehe.

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

The xx4 arms do not have enough meat around the pins... and would break very easy in comparsion.. just say NO!

The Shuey arms... they come in standard and Med Flex.. I would go with Med-Flex..
I would think Amain probably stocks Drill Bits & can probably mic the 22-4 Kingpin for you, too.

I'll double check what # the drill bit I used, & the shoulder size of the 22-4Kingpin, when I get home.

edited 03/13/14

A 9/64" or #28 Drill bit for the inner & outer hinge pin holes on the shuey arms, then follow http://www.rctech.net/forum/13093860-post4088.html