Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

Diffs are awesome I run the rear a lil bit tighter than the front lately to hopefully help with the rotating issue but it didnt seem to help much

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

If your sure its not maybe a bearings etc. you could try to set the diffs the same and or run the rear diff looser?

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I was just thinking as I posted that, check the shock tower and arms for cracks. Maybe its time for new hinge pine inserts?

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

wouldnt running it looser further the issue of over-rotating? If it is looser one would think that it would rotate more??

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I was assuming it was sliding or breaking loose. Over steer is what you are saying I guess.? But if the rear diff is looser than the front it will lock the rear end in. By having the front tighter it will take steering away entering the turn.

Loose diffs allow the tires to work more independent. By having the front tight the kit will have more push going in and more pull coming out.

It sounds like its time for a diff rebuild how old are they?
Or maybe you just have the front to loose.?

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

triple claimed my left front arm tonight.... whipped it out over the triple and caught the left front tire as i cased it. got the arm now to find the pins Car is still dialed!

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

Yeah I will try loosening the front diff and see what happens. Thanks for the advice!!

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

"""Speaking of In the apex or turns""".
I would tighten it if its over steering. "Allowing" a diff to rotate generates grip. Not allowing it to rotate decreases grip.

Utilizing this effect is the hard part. Our track I am running about 3/4 of a turn rotation front and rear. But if the grip is real good I will run the front slightly tighter around half a turn out. If I run them to tight on our track it skates threw the turns.

Nice thing about ball diffs is you can adjust it on the fly even in warm ups. Finding the perfect setting sucks...LOL

I am going to send you a PM

LosiRacer33

iTrader: (3)

Can someone help me with the rear belt tension options. I understand that there are different inserts that can be used. But I'm not sure I follow the "A Back" vs "A Forward". Is the arrow what makes the forward vs back distinction? If so I don't think I have the inserts with alternating arrows.

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

+1

exactly!

How does a tight front diff(understeer in & out of the turn) make the rear-end over-rotate?!?!?

A more responsive(oversteer) front-end is more likely to aide in rear over-rotating..

He said it "suddenly" changed, which diffs that need a rebuild typical do not rotate smoothly, thereby reducing rotation and can cause it to come around on you in/out of turns, and makes the car feel less planted thru the turns... If that's what he is meaning by "rear end over rotation"..

Casper, Hacker, Frank?!? any input on front & rear diff tightness and its effects on 4wd In & Thru out the turns, and traction bias?

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

You have to view the arrows one side the arrow points at the letter the other points away from it. If you look at the manual A/back back is tighter than A/forward. The arrow tells you if the letter is back or forward. Back points at the letter and forward points away. Kinda tricky with no notes to go by in the manual but I am pretty sure that's how it is.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Not true. There is a fine line between to tight or to loose on any diff. Over steer strictly speaking ("diffs off power") is due to the rear diff to tight while the front is looser, or there both to loose. If the front is slightly tighter than the rear over steer goes away and can be more precisely tuned to the tracks condition more or less. There are always other determining factors but the diffs are the primary adjustment and should be the first place to look at for a solution.

When a "kit" not diff rotates a turn the diff is the first thing to effect the suspension. Then its onto roll centers links etc. and shock oils and so on.

My order on a box stock set up. Diff, Slipper, oils, the links, wheel base, then roll center. Sad but true no matter the process its a never ending battle one track to the next.
To his point is yes it could be the dirt water no water ambient temps and so on. But if there are no changes made to the kit and its goofing up out of the blue, I would for sure start with the diffs and inspect bearings and belt tension.. It sounds like he has tried everything else?

Not sure this helps but with out being able to see drive or consult while at the track its pretty difficult to help on the interweb.

dirtracin58

iTrader: (1)

+1 UN4RACING, I think where a lot of the diff tightness confusion comes in is some have observed that at times tightening the front diff helps the front rotate, however it is usually on throttle with a lot of front roll stiffness (stiff springs, stiff bar, high roll center).

This is very evident in touring cars using a locked front diff with stiff front springs. The car will not hardly turn at all unless you are on throttle because the tires are fighting each other until the inside front tire is unloaded.

So if you are using close to a conventional setup, as UN4RACING stated, you want the front slightly stiffer that the rear but not over tight so the tires are not fighting each other to rotate.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for finding the words that describe the effects better. Like you say the front diff tight will have more on power. And that's my primary reason for mine being a bit tighter. I like a lot of steering but not at the sacrifice of on power steering out of the turn.

DBARB

http://www.redrc.net/2014/03/vectorw...ns/#more-78314