Xray XB4 thread
#5701
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Steel gears are coming……don't worry
They have been delayed and delayed in production but are soon to be released to the public.
All Xray's are race ready out of the box.
Part of the philosophy is to provide the parts used by the Factory Team out of the box and let the customers race the same vehicles fully capable of winning major races out of the box.
Additional parts are considered tuning parts.
Since all parts are tested over and over again by the Factory Team a lot of parts actually never make it to production as they prove to have no real benefit or performance gain.
A nice thing about Xray and a big part of why we chose Xray as a sponsor is their dedication to make race winning vehicles, not just "the latest flashy trendy parts"
But yes as I stated the metal diff gears are a nice tuning option and they are coming.
The full release of the '15 model is not far off now but in typical Xray tradition it will not be released until it is actually ready
Bent
They have been delayed and delayed in production but are soon to be released to the public.
All Xray's are race ready out of the box.
Part of the philosophy is to provide the parts used by the Factory Team out of the box and let the customers race the same vehicles fully capable of winning major races out of the box.
Additional parts are considered tuning parts.
Since all parts are tested over and over again by the Factory Team a lot of parts actually never make it to production as they prove to have no real benefit or performance gain.
A nice thing about Xray and a big part of why we chose Xray as a sponsor is their dedication to make race winning vehicles, not just "the latest flashy trendy parts"
But yes as I stated the metal diff gears are a nice tuning option and they are coming.
The full release of the '15 model is not far off now but in typical Xray tradition it will not be released until it is actually ready
Bent
Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.
Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.
I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.
Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
#5703
I'll try to post a setup sheet once I get around to filling it out. The surface is hard packed dirt, but it gets a fine dust over it and drys out once the heat gets turned on and the day goes on. Small pins seem to work well and a supersoft tire has worked best in my experience. I have the hubs almost fully back, running the avid pistons 32.5 F & 27.5 R (3dot springs) The plastic shim is off on the back, but I retained the stock toe plate (not the +2) to keep the roll center as low as possible, pills are in bottom - outer location. Rear shocks are on the back of the tower (bumpy track) and two brass 20gram weights have been installed (they really seem to help). I've been running green dirtwebs and they are very consistent, I just need to get the rear end settled down a tad more when getting on throttle (RSX with 6.5 no boost or timing). The slipper is also set
pretty loose, but it seems to have helped a bit.
pretty loose, but it seems to have helped a bit.
3 dot springs in the back are way too stiff. Try either 27.5 with 1 dot on the outside hole, or 30 with 2 dot springs on the inside hole on the arm. The inside hole setup will be better for a loose track.
#5704
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
Those have been coming soon now for 6 months!
Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.
Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.
I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.
Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.
Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.
I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.
Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
#5705
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Those have been coming soon now for 6 months!
Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.
Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.
I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.
Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.
Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.
I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.
Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
not to rub salt into the wound but its been over a year and a month. not 6 months lol
#5707
Diffs are Front 6K / Rear 2K (Mugen oils), I'll try going back to lighter spings in back and I currently run the shocks in the middle tower hole in both the front and back, I'll go to the inside with 30W in the rear to start. I also just made an untested change with the rear camber link moving it to the outside hole on the hubs (aluminm Exotek). My biggest issue is that I have to be carefull getting on the throttle even sometimes in a straight line or it will washout unpredictably. Camber is currentlt about -1.5 F and -2 R. Any other tips are welcome. I'll try and get a setup sheet posted to avoid these run on sentences that are hard to follow
#5708
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Diffs are Front 6K / Rear 2K (Mugen oils), I'll try going back to lighter spings in back and I currently run the shocks in the middle tower hole in both the front and back, I'll go to the inside with 30W in the rear to start. I also just made an untested change with the rear camber link moving it to the outside hole on the hubs (aluminm Exotek). My biggest issue is that I have to be carefull getting on the throttle even sometimes in a straight line or it will washout unpredictably. Camber is currentlt about -1.5 F and -2 R. Any other tips are welcome. I'll try and get a setup sheet posted to avoid these run on sentences that are hard to follow
Ps- print out a setup sheet and post it.. or put on the Tacoma setup. Its good on low to high traction tracks
#5709
yea you have to dermal out the center and were the batteries go , and you also have to dermal out the front and rear diff on the opposite side so you can flip the diff. over. and you have to drill new holes in the bottom back bone chasey . but it looks really clean when your done, takes some work but really worth it i over the xb4 before and its even better. ill try and post some more pics soon. racing it tomorrow night.
Diffs are Front 6K / Rear 2K (Mugen oils), I'll try going back to lighter spings in back and I currently run the shocks in the middle tower hole in both the front and back, I'll go to the inside with 30W in the rear to start. I also just made an untested change with the rear camber link moving it to the outside hole on the hubs (aluminm Exotek). My biggest issue is that I have to be carefull getting on the throttle even sometimes in a straight line or it will washout unpredictably. Camber is currentlt about -1.5 F and -2 R. Any other tips are welcome. I'll try and get a setup sheet posted to avoid these run on sentences that are hard to follow
Try going up in rear diff oil. I once tried 1k rear diff and it was horrible.
You cannot try to make a gear diff similar as ball diff by running low oils...
Add weight to the rear and use batteries that are around 290g total. With low weight batteries (240-265g), it is harder to accelerate out of corners because rear is too light compared to front.
These are my findings after two summer seasons with XB4...
#5711
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
#5712
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Reason why I said to try Vik's setup because its great on low traction/loamy dirt to high grip clay. Having the right eccentric bushings really makes a huge difference on how your car reacts. Of course you have to play with the slipper and diff oils but I think you'll find the happy place for your Xb4. I've had my wheeler almost since the time it was released and its a great buggy. My son also runs one in novice. Very easy to set these cars up
PS~ going to low of on the diff oils you CAN diff out but keeping the CST's close together you shouldn't have an issue. I don't know your track but trying a 5/2 could be a good start.
good luck
#5713
Tech Regular
blowing diff gears...
Well, I have been running the car for some time now, and have had no problems. I purchased tha car used, and have only recently had opportunity to tear down the rear end. I found that there are a few areas that people could have issue with though. First place to be concerned with is the rear input bearing in the transmission (the one that the small input gear presses into). On my car, the factory bearing has developed a fair amout of play in it (not the diff housing). This will alow the gear mesh to spread under acceleration. A better higher tolerance bearing should be sourced (personal preference). Secondly, the amount of side to side play the diff has in the housing. I needed to add two thin bearing shims in order to remove nearly all the play. This will tighten the tolerance a little more. And thirdly, and most importanly, is the amount of play fore and aft the diff has in the tranny case where the bearings seat. On my car (with V1 rear tranny cases), there is a considerable amount of play between the bearings and the case. This will lead to premature wear, and spreading of the mesh between the input and crown gear. I am going to put on V2 cases and see if the play is removed. If not I will add layers of CA to the bulkhead CAP until the play is removed. I would recomend these items be checked when 1st built, and then on a regular basis, as they may be items that develop over time. I have never stripped any gears on the car, but can see if the tranny parts are old, or on the looser end of the spectrum, the gears could become an issue -new or not. I have run A Lazer FS, and B44.2 in the recent past, and I never had issue with these cars either, even though their gear pitch is considerably smaller. I think most of the stripping problems can be related to prep/mechanic problems . -Jeff
#5714
Pricing up a XB4 to start racing at LHS track its a tacky high traction track and going to run mod.
Prefer orion or tekin which is what my LHS stocks guessing most run a 5.5 or 6.5 ? Brushless and lipo is kind of new to me use to race TC3 sedan indoor carpet a while ago.
What's a good recommendation for electronics ? And parts to keep on hand. They mostly stock losi associated and Durango but I really like the xb4 !
Prefer orion or tekin which is what my LHS stocks guessing most run a 5.5 or 6.5 ? Brushless and lipo is kind of new to me use to race TC3 sedan indoor carpet a while ago.
What's a good recommendation for electronics ? And parts to keep on hand. They mostly stock losi associated and Durango but I really like the xb4 !
#5715
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
Pricing up a XB4 to start racing at LHS track its a tacky high traction track and going to run mod.
Prefer orion or tekin which is what my LHS stocks guessing most run a 5.5 or 6.5 ? Brushless and lipo is kind of new to me use to race TC3 sedan indoor carpet a while ago.
What's a good recommendation for electronics ? And parts to keep on hand. They mostly stock losi associated and Durango but I really like the xb4 !
Prefer orion or tekin which is what my LHS stocks guessing most run a 5.5 or 6.5 ? Brushless and lipo is kind of new to me use to race TC3 sedan indoor carpet a while ago.
What's a good recommendation for electronics ? And parts to keep on hand. They mostly stock losi associated and Durango but I really like the xb4 !