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Old 03-03-2014, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Anyone found a better way to cool the motor, than a 30mm fan behind it which dies every 2nd run? Had my X20 17.5 come off at 190f last meet and am keen to avoid this happening again (need to replace rotor) Do the aftermarket bodys give more clearance to allow a motor mount heatsink /fan or are there any with a smaller profile that may fit?
To be honest LRP motors have no problem at running around 200 degrees. It is hot but I doubt you'll blow the motor. You should definitely start to worry around 210-220F.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:13 PM
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I just find it unusual given it normally settled at 150-160 only thing I have done is change the ESC to a Reventon S after my LRP one started acting up. It also noticably looses punch about 2-3 mins in so it certainly feels like it's fading.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
I just find it unusual given it normally settled at 150-160 only thing I have done is change the ESC to a Reventon S after my LRP one started acting up. It also noticably looses punch about 2-3 mins in so it certainly feels like it's fading.
did u check the esc settings.

the reventon r and pro series, have timing set as default on the esc, and got to manually turn it down or off with the program card.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:20 PM
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Hi just was wondering where are these? I am going to run some aka evo's on this car and wanted to have an apples to apples comparison against the barcodes that are on it now.

Probably going to order the traxxas and losi hubs to try as well but would like to bling out the xb4 with other exotek stuff if these were done?

Originally Posted by MikeR
Just a note- 12mm front/rear and 9mm front hexes are already in production so that you can run your B44 or Kyosho type wheelse but match the XB4 off sets Eta 2/16.

Best
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by viktozzz
did u check the esc settings.

the reventon r and pro series, have timing set as default on the esc, and got to manually turn it down or off with the program card.
Yes I did the Reventon S is default set to Stock blinky mode out of the box, and I double checked everything, even found no effect on temp by toning the timing down and lowering punch control, so assuming the rotor is cooked but just want to stop a reoccurance which is why I am looking at ways to keep the motor cool.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Yes I did the Reventon S is default set to Stock blinky mode out of the box, and I double checked everything, even found no effect on temp by toning the timing down and lowering punch control, so assuming the rotor is cooked but just want to stop a reoccurance which is why I am looking at ways to keep the motor cool.
hmm. funny for a 17.5T motor to be cooked.

i am using a 8.5T motor, geared 20/81. no issues at all. and the environment temp is usually in the 30 degrees celsius or higher, not sure how much it equates to Fahrenheit.

perhaps its time to recheck the gearing, and the car for any binding which might be causing excessive load to the motor.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:07 PM
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That was my thought, I was geared 29/72 which should be fine for Blinky 17.5, tested the car without a motor, rolls freely can't see anywhere it could have bound up. I have an old Bullistorm motor (17.5) I'll throw in there and test it with in the interim I guess.
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:05 AM
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Hi guys,

in the 2013 model we had a shock tower protector in front and on the rear, now I am building the 2014 and i got just the front shock tower protector and not the alu. part for the rear. Is how the 2014 kit comes or I am missing that part?

Thank you
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:11 AM
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My 2014 came with only the front. I'm assuming in this version it is an option part. Don't think I'd run it anyway.
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:17 AM
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Ran outdoors again this weekend . It was a practice day , and I had a blast ! running a speed passion 8.5 with mod timing , and 1.6/1.7 pistons this thing would hang with the b main 1/8 buggy guys that were on the track with me . Let 2 others drive it , who had never driven one bofore and they were both able to run in the traffic in no time. Took some hard hits , got raped by a mugen 6t , and was pretty much on a track it shouldnt have been near. Only damage was a broken lexan wing , and the upper rear ball end. I was shocked ! My buddies xxx 4 cant make 2 laps with out having to fix something. Just having a blast with this thing ... Corner speed on a big track with a groove is just rediculous !
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:57 AM
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Xray just released the ball diff for the Xb4, anyone have any idea what the price point will be for this?

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...409dd7e276f1b5
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by marco cianfrone
Hi guys,

in the 2013 model we had a shock tower protector in front and on the rear, now I am building the 2014 and i got just the front shock tower protector and not the alu. part for the rear. Is how the 2014 kit comes or I am missing that part?

Thank you
The 2014 rear shock tower was modified to add additional material around the camber link holes. Thus the aluminum plate was no longer needed.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by EricW
Xray just released the ball diff for the Xb4, anyone have any idea what the price point will be for this?

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...409dd7e276f1b5
Wonder how long until people start squawking about "they used the wrong kind of diff balls"
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by EricW
Xray just released the ball diff for the Xb4, anyone have any idea what the price point will be for this?

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...409dd7e276f1b5
Pricey.

Somewhere north of $70US is my guess.

Edit:$60 apparently!

I like my gear diffs, but my track is med to high grip clay.

By the sounds of it, it'll be good for low grip tracks maybe for the 4wd but all conditions (other than indoor carpet) for 2wd.

Last edited by HeavyD99; 03-04-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
Wonder how long until people start squawking about "they used the wrong kind of diff balls"
So let me be the first!

Ceramic should be in the thrust kit, carbide for the diff balls, why they went the other way is beyond me. I hope they know something we don't!
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