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Old 10-13-2014, 09:01 AM
  #5701  
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Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Steel gears are coming……don't worry

They have been delayed and delayed in production but are soon to be released to the public.



All Xray's are race ready out of the box.

Part of the philosophy is to provide the parts used by the Factory Team out of the box and let the customers race the same vehicles fully capable of winning major races out of the box.

Additional parts are considered tuning parts.

Since all parts are tested over and over again by the Factory Team a lot of parts actually never make it to production as they prove to have no real benefit or performance gain.

A nice thing about Xray and a big part of why we chose Xray as a sponsor is their dedication to make race winning vehicles, not just "the latest flashy trendy parts"

But yes as I stated the metal diff gears are a nice tuning option and they are coming.

The full release of the '15 model is not far off now but in typical Xray tradition it will not be released until it is actually ready

Bent
Those have been coming soon now for 6 months!

Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.

Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.

I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.

Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:14 AM
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Just bought a used XB4 and I guess I'll need to order a bunch of diff parts
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I'll try to post a setup sheet once I get around to filling it out. The surface is hard packed dirt, but it gets a fine dust over it and drys out once the heat gets turned on and the day goes on. Small pins seem to work well and a supersoft tire has worked best in my experience. I have the hubs almost fully back, running the avid pistons 32.5 F & 27.5 R (3dot springs) The plastic shim is off on the back, but I retained the stock toe plate (not the +2) to keep the roll center as low as possible, pills are in bottom - outer location. Rear shocks are on the back of the tower (bumpy track) and two brass 20gram weights have been installed (they really seem to help). I've been running green dirtwebs and they are very consistent, I just need to get the rear end settled down a tad more when getting on throttle (RSX with 6.5 no boost or timing). The slipper is also set
pretty loose, but it seems to have helped a bit.
A set-up sheet will help. What are your diff oils?

3 dot springs in the back are way too stiff. Try either 27.5 with 1 dot on the outside hole, or 30 with 2 dot springs on the inside hole on the arm. The inside hole setup will be better for a loose track.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Canadianrage View Post
Those have been coming soon now for 6 months!

Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.

Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.

I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.

Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.
just my .02 from running the xb4 for the last year ...i had a ton of issues with the ring and pinion gear in the beginning ...this is what i found ...set the slipper exactly the way the book says to set it .....use a liberal amount of locktite on the screw that holds the pinion gear on the shaft ....DONT ever goose the throttle to try and jump a pipe .....My screw backed out on the front a few times causing the clicking noise im sure youve grow to love after i cleaned the inside of the threads on the drive shaft that the pinion screw goes in and put about double the amount of locktite ...i have not had an issue since ......the goosing the throttle thing that we all do when we are stuck on the pipe will simply shear the pinion gear ...i had to look in the manual about shimming ...there are no shims needed ...the diff case shims the gears by the fit ...that being said ..i also changed my bulkheads out after about 6 months because it is possible that they expand a little from the heat we are generating ....just my thoughts and what i have done to prevent these issues ...so far so good
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Canadianrage View Post
Those have been coming soon now for 6 months!

Car is ridiculously fast and easy to drive, durable as all get out, damn near cut a 22 in half last race when he jumped into my lane going the opposite direction, but I'm killing rear crown/pinion gears every 3 weeks, fronts are lasting 4-5.

Crazy loose slipper, new pads, shimming, zero difference.

I also convinced several other drivers to switch to Xray, and every single one at this point has had diff issues.

Wating on the '15 car but it's tough knowing I'm driving a ticking time bomb, literally.

not to rub salt into the wound but its been over a year and a month. not 6 months lol
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:25 PM
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Ran both the '13 spec car and now the 14 spec car. Never a blown diff gear. We run on a rather high grip clay mix track
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TV View Post
A set-up sheet will help. What are your diff oils?

3 dot springs in the back are way too stiff. Try either 27.5 with 1 dot on the outside hole, or 30 with 2 dot springs on the inside hole on the arm. The inside hole setup will be better for a loose track.
Diffs are Front 6K / Rear 2K (Mugen oils), I'll try going back to lighter spings in back and I currently run the shocks in the middle tower hole in both the front and back, I'll go to the inside with 30W in the rear to start. I also just made an untested change with the rear camber link moving it to the outside hole on the hubs (aluminm Exotek). My biggest issue is that I have to be carefull getting on the throttle even sometimes in a straight line or it will washout unpredictably. Camber is currentlt about -1.5 F and -2 R. Any other tips are welcome. I'll try and get a setup sheet posted to avoid these run on sentences that are hard to follow
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Diffs are Front 6K / Rear 2K (Mugen oils), I'll try going back to lighter spings in back and I currently run the shocks in the middle tower hole in both the front and back, I'll go to the inside with 30W in the rear to start. I also just made an untested change with the rear camber link moving it to the outside hole on the hubs (aluminm Exotek). My biggest issue is that I have to be carefull getting on the throttle even sometimes in a straight line or it will washout unpredictably. Camber is currentlt about -1.5 F and -2 R. Any other tips are welcome. I'll try and get a setup sheet posted to avoid these run on sentences that are hard to follow
I would put a Tyler Vik Tacoma setup on it... and tell us how awesome it is. But also on your track you might want to go lighter on your diff. 5f/2r. Keeping the weight closer together seems to smooth it out better. Also less camber helps out down the straight (more contact patch)

Ps- print out a setup sheet and post it.. or put on the Tacoma setup. Its good on low to high traction tracks
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by PoorBoy534 View Post
yea you have to dermal out the center and were the batteries go , and you also have to dermal out the front and rear diff on the opposite side so you can flip the diff. over. and you have to drill new holes in the bottom back bone chasey . but it looks really clean when your done, takes some work but really worth it i over the xb4 before and its even better. ill try and post some more pics soon. racing it tomorrow night.
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Diffs are Front 6K / Rear 2K (Mugen oils), I'll try going back to lighter spings in back and I currently run the shocks in the middle tower hole in both the front and back, I'll go to the inside with 30W in the rear to start. I also just made an untested change with the rear camber link moving it to the outside hole on the hubs (aluminm Exotek). My biggest issue is that I have to be carefull getting on the throttle even sometimes in a straight line or it will washout unpredictably. Camber is currentlt about -1.5 F and -2 R. Any other tips are welcome. I'll try and get a setup sheet posted to avoid these run on sentences that are hard to follow
If the track is medium to high speed and slippery, very low rear diff oil does that. It is unpredictable under accelerating, it doesn't go straight.
Try going up in rear diff oil. I once tried 1k rear diff and it was horrible.
You cannot try to make a gear diff similar as ball diff by running low oils...
Add weight to the rear and use batteries that are around 290g total. With low weight batteries (240-265g), it is harder to accelerate out of corners because rear is too light compared to front.
These are my findings after two summer seasons with XB4...
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
I would put a Tyler Vik Tacoma setup on it...
Where do you find this setup? I looked on the Petitrc setup sheet page and there's only 2 Tyler Vik setups on there that I see, Norcal hobbies and Reedy race OCRC. Is there a different place to look for setup sheets?
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Where do you find this setup? I looked on the Petitrc setup sheet page and there's only 2 Tyler Vik setups on there that I see, Norcal hobbies and Reedy race OCRC. Is there a different place to look for setup sheets?
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/se...acoma20140413/
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Where do you find this setup? I looked on the Petitrc setup sheet page and there's only 2 Tyler Vik setups on there that I see, Norcal hobbies and Reedy race OCRC. Is there a different place to look for setup sheets?
Thank you Eric

Reason why I said to try Vik's setup because its great on low traction/loamy dirt to high grip clay. Having the right eccentric bushings really makes a huge difference on how your car reacts. Of course you have to play with the slipper and diff oils but I think you'll find the happy place for your Xb4. I've had my wheeler almost since the time it was released and its a great buggy. My son also runs one in novice. Very easy to set these cars up

PS~ going to low of on the diff oils you CAN diff out but keeping the CST's close together you shouldn't have an issue. I don't know your track but trying a 5/2 could be a good start.

good luck
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:59 PM
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Default blowing diff gears...

Well, I have been running the car for some time now, and have had no problems. I purchased tha car used, and have only recently had opportunity to tear down the rear end. I found that there are a few areas that people could have issue with though. First place to be concerned with is the rear input bearing in the transmission (the one that the small input gear presses into). On my car, the factory bearing has developed a fair amout of play in it (not the diff housing). This will alow the gear mesh to spread under acceleration. A better higher tolerance bearing should be sourced (personal preference). Secondly, the amount of side to side play the diff has in the housing. I needed to add two thin bearing shims in order to remove nearly all the play. This will tighten the tolerance a little more. And thirdly, and most importanly, is the amount of play fore and aft the diff has in the tranny case where the bearings seat. On my car (with V1 rear tranny cases), there is a considerable amount of play between the bearings and the case. This will lead to premature wear, and spreading of the mesh between the input and crown gear. I am going to put on V2 cases and see if the play is removed. If not I will add layers of CA to the bulkhead CAP until the play is removed. I would recomend these items be checked when 1st built, and then on a regular basis, as they may be items that develop over time. I have never stripped any gears on the car, but can see if the tranny parts are old, or on the looser end of the spectrum, the gears could become an issue -new or not. I have run A Lazer FS, and B44.2 in the recent past, and I never had issue with these cars either, even though their gear pitch is considerably smaller. I think most of the stripping problems can be related to prep/mechanic problems . -Jeff
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:10 PM
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Pricing up a XB4 to start racing at LHS track its a tacky high traction track and going to run mod.
Prefer orion or tekin which is what my LHS stocks guessing most run a 5.5 or 6.5 ? Brushless and lipo is kind of new to me use to race TC3 sedan indoor carpet a while ago.

What's a good recommendation for electronics ? And parts to keep on hand. They mostly stock losi associated and Durango but I really like the xb4 !
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason84 View Post
Pricing up a XB4 to start racing at LHS track its a tacky high traction track and going to run mod.
Prefer orion or tekin which is what my LHS stocks guessing most run a 5.5 or 6.5 ? Brushless and lipo is kind of new to me use to race TC3 sedan indoor carpet a while ago.

What's a good recommendation for electronics ? And parts to keep on hand. They mostly stock losi associated and Durango but I really like the xb4 !
If money is not an issue, I recommend either the Orion r10 pro or the tekin rsx with a 6.5t of either brand.
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