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lol, you have to say that, your sponsored. that being said, the avid sabertooth are nice.
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Originally Posted by shagnat
(Post 12037140)
Do any of you use the DE Racing Borrego wheels?
If so, do you like them? If not, why not? |
Originally Posted by shagnat
(Post 12040568)
Anybody like or dislike these?
Theyre nice. He wrecks a lot and they didn't break or distort. I like the JC Hazard just bc theyre light and look cool. And who doesn't play the General Lee's Dixie horn note in their head when flying through the air every now and then. |
Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
(Post 12040444)
I live the +3 Avid wheels. My truck is hooked up!
Last club race I was only 1 second off of the 4wd sc TQ! Haha That said, I have this on the way to me 9 x AVD1100-B Avid RC 12mm Hex "Sabertooth" Short Course Wheel w/3mm Offset (Black) (2) (SC10) $72.00 1 x HPI103378 HPI Slipper Pad (2) $3.69 1 x HPI103373 HPI Spur Gear 88T (48 Pitch) $5.49 1 x HPI103372 HPI Spur Gear 83T (48 Pitch) $5.49 1 x HPI103327 HPI Body Mount Set $11.75 1 x HPI86969 HPI 3x9x7mm Thumbscrew (2) $5.09 2 x PRO1182-01 Pro-Line Badlands 2.0 M2 SC 2.2"/3.0" Truck Tires (2) $37.98 2 x PRO1169-02 Pro-Line Gladiator M3 SC 2.2"/3.0" Truck Tires (2) $37.98 2 x JCI3041-02 JConcepts Goose Bumps Short Course Tires (Green) (2) $31.98 2 x ASC6573 Team Associated Differential Thrust Washers and Bolt $7.38 2 x ASC9880 Team Associated Hex Steering Block Set (SC10RS) $9.18 2 x ASC9883 Team Associated Hex Wheel Adapter Set (SC10RS) $9.18 2 x JCI2171 JConcepts SC10 12mm Hex Conversion Front Axle Set $21.98 2 x JCI2081 JConcepts 12mm Aluminum Rear Hex Adapter Set (Blue) (2) $16.98 1 x PAHT891S Panther Boa Short Course Truck Tires (Soft) (2) $17.99 1 x AKA13002SR AKA Racing Enduro Short Course Tires (Soft) (2) $18.99 9 x AVD1100-B Avid RC 12mm Hex "Sabertooth" Short Course Wheel w/3mm Offset (Black) (2) (SC10) $72.00 1 x AIT40R222 MYLAPS Personal RC4 Hybrid Transponder Holder $4.99 1 x ASC1105 Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime $2.29 1 x ASC6591 Team Associated Stealth Differential Lube $2.29 1 x ASC5422 Team Associated Silicone Shock Oil (30wt) (2oz) $3.69 1 x ASC5429 Team Associated Silicone Shock Oil (35wt) (2oz) $3.69 1 x ASC5407 Team Associated Shock Rebuild Red O-Ring $1.89 1 x ASC6292 Team Associated 4-40 x 3/8" Flat Head Screw (6) $1.89 1 x ASC6922 Team Associated 4-40 x 1/2" Flat Head Screw (6) $1.89 1 x ASC9269 Team Associated 5-40 x 1/2 Flat Head Screw $1.89 2 x ASC6952 Team Associated 8/32 Steel Lock Nut (6) $3.78 1 x ASC3897 Team Associated Pivoting Body Mounts (8) $3.79 |
Does anyone have a sc10b front shock tower? I need one thanks
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
(Post 12040727)
Does anyone have a sc10b front shock tower? I need one thanks
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Originally Posted by shagnat
(Post 12040731)
Now that right there is funny! :lol:
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So I finally finished rebuilding my transmission and am sad to say that the problem was not fixed. I followed the manual very carefully and when I turned it on it still clicked and did not accelerate. After a little bit of adjusting my motor would give out. It started by driving slower and slower and then finally died. It is not because of the battery, it's a lipo and had a good amount of juice in it. I have to come to the conclusion that the motor is the problem. Right now I am thinking on what motor to buy that has some good speed and is reliable. Thanks for all the feedback.
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Originally Posted by CounterAttack
(Post 12042504)
So I finally finished rebuilding my transmission and am sad to say that the problem was not fixed. I followed the manual very carefully and when I turned it on it still clicked and did not accelerate. After a little bit of adjusting my motor would give out. It started by driving slower and slower and then finally died. It is not because of the battery, it's a lipo and had a good amount of juice in it. I have to come to the conclusion that the motor is the problem. Right now I am thinking on what motor to buy that has some good speed and is reliable. Thanks for all the feedback.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 12042531)
are you running 13.5? I ran casey's balistic 13.5 last week, it was nice. I normally run reedy sonics, but just started trying out the tekins. Honestly. I like the build of the reedy better. The tekin has an exposed endbell bearing and I am not a huge fan of that. But I will be at the track today running my tekin for the first time, so then I will be able to comment on its power. but honestly tekin or reedy are good. reedy is a little cheaper.
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On the note of aluminum, what is wrong with Putin an aluminum bulkhead, I have seen so many of them break at both the tracks I race at!!!
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Originally Posted by CounterAttack
(Post 12042504)
So I finally finished rebuilding my transmission and am sad to say that the problem was not fixed. I followed the manual very carefully and when I turned it on it still clicked and did not accelerate. After a little bit of adjusting my motor would give out. It started by driving slower and slower and then finally died. It is not because of the battery, it's a lipo and had a good amount of juice in it. I have to come to the conclusion that the motor is the problem. Right now I am thinking on what motor to buy that has some good speed and is reliable. Thanks for all the feedback.
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Originally Posted by theblitzkidd
(Post 12042808)
On the note of aluminum, what is wrong with Putin an aluminum bulkhead, I have seen so many of them break at both the tracks I race at!!!
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Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 12042821)
I think what a lot of folks think is that if you put an aluminum bulkhead in the front you are just going to break more arms. This is true. If you are hitting something hard enough to break a part, replacing that part with aluminum will most likely just transfer the force to the next plastic part. That being said, I would much rather replace an arm than the bulkhead so my bulkheads are aluminum.
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The other nice thing about the aluminum bulkhead is, depending on what brand you get, you can set screw the hinge pins to remove more slop. Some slop is good....but going to Losi-slop is bad.
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