I like my Novac Ballistic 8.5 in mine. Went from a Tekin RL 8.5 to it. And I've got it paired up with a LRP TC ESC. Can't complain one bit about how much power I have. Plus I can change the stator any time I want for a 6.5 when I want to get a lot more speed.

well, I have really liked the Reedy Sonics. The new tekin gen2 is supposed to be pretty good also.

forgot to say that this is a 17.5 blinky class motor

I ran my x12 in a sc10 last sat,it's plenty fast but as you know keep a eye on temps,75/25 is what I was geared at,I know the shuur speeds are fast and run cool

Reedy sonic all the way especially if running a 17.5 blinky.

As for the guys breaking axles, I had my conversion done for 6 months with no breaks till I got hit by a Losi 4x4 going backward on the straight. Then the next 2 I got in a pack both broke within a few laps each but the newest set had no problems. Most definitely a bad batch of them must have been shipped out.

I run the AE aluminum hexes and on the front axles I put a shim on the axle before the inner bearing and another between the c-clip and outer bearing to allow the bearings to rotate free when tightening down the wheel nuts.

Are there any after market axles that are better?

Jconcepts just released some.

Go back a page or two and you'll find the link

Exactly. Plain and simple, the only explanation is weak material.

Exactly what I do on all my cars too.

You can still over tighten the wheel nut with clampiing hexes and put pressure on the pin.

Dez check out the shuur speed motors. Absolutely ridiculous. IMHO

Ridiculous how?

There just fast as heck and they run super cool,no loss of power at all towards your heat,although the x12 is torquey and run good in sc trucks.

clamping hexes squeeze around the axle...over tightening the wheel nut just cinches down the plastic wheel, to the aluminum hex...which puts a minor amount of pressure on the pin. The pin is made from harder material than the hex (both the roll pins, and the solid pins...both are steel, hexes are aluminum...axle is steel) All of which is supported on its axis by 2 roller bearings. So you mean to tell me that plastic and aluminum are exerting enough force on 2 steel pins, and snapping them? But leaving the softer aluminum, plastic wheel, and 2 roller bearings intact??? (all of which should give way before the steel axle/pin would...rear bearing failure in the rear is a prime example of things working how they should)

I'm a CAD/CAM programmer/machinist/designer by trade (15 years) The shop I work for specializes in aerospace/defense. If you dont want to take my word for it, I can use my extensive Solidworks skills and whip up a 3d model of the entire front end and run a gambit of stress analysis tests on it...or you could send me a broken axle, and I will run some NDT (Non destructive testing) and hardness tests on each axle. I know this is overboard (and I'm doing a bit of e-flexing lol) but is it really so hard to believe that AE's (or thunder tigers) supplier (most likely chinese) MFG'd these axles out of shit material??? I guess the picture is probably a little more clear to me since I work around stuff like this daily.

anyways...

(btw, ran my sc10, t4.1, and my sons b4.1 last night at the track for about 6 hours...no axle failures lolol)

:D

^^ And please dont that that post too seriously, I'm bored and trolling lololol

:sneaky: