Now this is more like it. No idea what the springs are. The color sleeves are missing. They appear to be v1 big bore AE springs. I’ll have to compare them to the gray and blue f/r v1 springs I have.

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Here is my SC10. First R/C since the original rustler I had mid 90s. Dug it out of my dads garage after probably 8 ish years. Had tons of fun with it bashing around. Ended up breaking the rear chassis plate....and that's when I realized how rare this car has become haha. So I went down the R/C rabbit hole and cruised ebay for hours and visited almost every hobby store in San Diego. Walked into the stores and asked to see the Team Associated stuff and everyone kinda laughed and was like let me dig em out...Usually hands me a old dusty box. I found some pretty sweet scores. Wheel bearings..diff rebuild kits...servo saver stuff. Probably collected enough to build a second car. But anyways here it is.....I don't want to call it a basher anymore..im way careful with it but man it is fun. I would say more fun then my new Baja rey.

I do need to find a new ESC I think. The throttle is literally on/off. It is plenty fast to have fun with. I may turn it into a clay racer, we will see.

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Any ideas on servos that fit this chassis and is a little faster then the stock one? I got 2 diff regular servos and both don't fit. The ball stud rubs the "top".

Having the correct servo arm makes things much easier/better to set up the steering linkage.

The servo arm wont make a difference. And it is all original anyways. The linkage that runs from front to back is what hits the top of the servo. The stock servo "top" is angled slightly. The aftermarket ones are squared off. If i could post pictures or even links to pictures it would make more sense.

Gott Cha. Sounds like a standard servo with no wiggle room when mounting it. Reminds me of one of my JX servos that had a lot of material on the top of the case. Little bit of Dremel grinding and it turned out really well. There was a moment I thought this was a bad idea.
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That's exactly what I am running into. I purchased a reedy 0712mg which i though was a oem one for a older rtr or something but it still was tight. I will have to revisit it. Car needs a new ESC now. it died. So back to the work bench,

Hi all, anyone know if there are any stronger outdrives that fit the db10 / trophy rat platform?

I don't race, and I do keep the slipper a little on the tight side because I like the acceleration. However, after only about 5 packs, the outdrives have massive divots worn into them. They are definitely catching the dogbones and preventing the rear suspension from cycling property. The dogbone pins do NOT have flat spots at all, which makes me think the outdrives are just too soft or, more likely, too thin.

I will replace the outdrives for now with stock parts, and I'll run the slipper a little looser, but that will be a band-aid. Anyone know of any parts that fit this diff/gearbox which are much beefier?

Thanks!

GEARBOXES
 

SC10 & PRO SC10/PRO2 SC10 GEARBOXES:

• Has anyone ever tried to do a mockup of the Pro SC10/Pro2 SC10 #91430 gearbox on a SC10 chassis?
• Would the rectangular part of the new gearbox be a drop in fit with little, or no modification?
• How far off would the gearbox's brace/tab be to matching up to the chassis brace?

The "old school" SC10 9826 gearbox and the new Pro SC10/Pro2 SC10's 91430 gearbox are very similar. If anyone has a side by side comparison picture of the two, it would be great to see. TIA

I had several of each on hand in the shop for years (actually B5 and SC10, as ProSC10's were not even a thought at that point), but now for about the last year I have no complete SC10 gearboxes, and no rear motor B5 boxes, but several of the mid motor variety 5 series still ... several years ago I did some internals testing, and the only thing that was close to 'drop in' with no mods, was the 4 and 5 series diffs were interchangeable (if using the metric outdrive bearing 9826 SC10 gearbox, but not with the earlier 9574 SAE B4/T4 case) , although some of the 4 series gear diffs (SC10) did need a minor modification to work properly with the wider 5 series (ProSC10) idler gear in a 5 series (ProSC10) case... as for trans cases themselves, never even tried swapping, never had a reason to, but definitely would not be 'drop in', with no mods ...

I guess the question before pursuing might be what was your reason/hoping to accomplish to even want to try it, as they each had their strong/weak points in comparison? ...

You could always go to a 'Pucks' system, where they protect the outdrives, but then bone selection for strength, keeping up on puck replacement, and not to mention the original $$ spent for the initial component change (new puck style diff outdrives, bones, couplers, etc) ... if you are not doing it now, you can also 'flip' your diff, allowing both sides of the outdrive to take the wear, as well as light filing as it starts to develop can extend their use, but at some point the gap with just be too much ....

I'm more of a "4" series (SC10/T4) platforms parts hoarder, and started collecting my parts stash many years ago when others were moving on to newer SC/ST platforms... I could get them parts cheap back then.

I am amazed at the amount of people, newer and those who've been in the hobby for quite some time now, that are picking up used SC10 rides to "fix up". The whole notion/idea of putting a Pro2 SC10/Pro SC10 gearbox on an old SC10 chassis was to give those, who are in need of parts, an option to keep their beloved newly acquired ride, and/or "old faithful" up and running.

We've all seen "hack jobs" in everyday life. The RC world is no different. There are all kinds of RC parts that are "close enough", then made to work by slight modification. I'm just curious to how close the two gearboxes are when having them sitting side by side. How much wiggle room there is for a person to work with, or how much modification/hacking/jerry rigging that needs to be done.