with used cars, it is mostly bad bearings, stripped screws, missing parts, bad shock seals and worn out diffs. I always plan to put another $30 into a used car. Thus I pay accordingly. I have gotten pretty good and just looking at a car and being able to tell it will be a lemon or not. There are a few little things in pictures to look for. But I did buy an sc10 once that was more than I wanted to deal with and just resold it and bought another. I lost money on the first sc10, but got a super gem on the second. And ended up coming out ahead. The best cars are normally the "I bought htis for a big race and I am selling after only one weekend". Then picking the car up for 50-60 less than Amain with upgrades. That is how I got my B4.1, lol.

They make carbon fiber shock towers for the SC10. But that might be
the integy parts they make for the 4wd im thinking of. I like the plastic towers.

buying used is always alooot cheaper cause u can find cars that have already been upgraded for lest than a stock sc10!!:nod::nod:

Help with diff
 

I am fairly new to the SC world and am having trouble trying to get my diff setup properly. I followed the instructions from the post on how to build and break in the diff here at rc tech. When I go to setup the slipper like it states I cant get the slipper tight enough to get the tires off of the ground without the diff squealing. I have tried both carbide and ceramic diff balls but have had no luck. Just need some help on what I am doing wrong.

Dont use the lift the front end method on sc. The front is too heavy. Just make sure the slipper slips bedore the diff

Fan if you have slipped the diff ?
Most likely you also flat spotted the diff balls ...

Assuming you are using the kit carbide balls ...

Next time
Before installing the diff inside the transmission ?

Check the diff's tightest by sliding two drivers inside the outdrive slots and see if you can turn the diff gear when locked in by the drivers .
If you can move the gear by hand , it still needs to be tighten more .

yes Wild Cherry has the best way. you dont want to trun the center of the diff at all i even use my shirt to get extra grip (but you still dont want to over tighten so get it to the point where you cant spin it then stop). make sure you use diff grease!!! not diff oil or black grease.

how i break the diff in is once i get is set (like on top) i run 5 min on the track. i try not to hit the gas to hard and just try to stay smooth to get a fell for the track and the diff (most the time i do this in the 1st qualifier). after that the diff will be lose... so i tighten the diff around a haft a turn and it set from there. most the time i never haft to tighten it till next time i redo the diff.

thanks for the help guys. I have installed the Avid slipper and melted one from running too loose. How do I go about setting up the slipper without using the front tire lift method.

The instructions included with your Triad has all the info on how to adjust ...

i run my slipper tight. it only slip wend it haft to. put it this way i never haft to buy pads. but most people set it with front tire and just get it lift a tiny bit it dose not haft to go all the way up. or you can go by the sound if you hit the gas hard and it make a lot of noise it to lose. and even it you run your slipper super tight it hard to brake the gear in the diff unless you do crazy stuff like hit brakes wend you land form big jumps or something like that / you should have your brakes set up where they dont lock.

once the diff feels good in hand it still has to be set properly after it goes in the truck. Leave the spur cover off and hold the spur with your thumb, and flick the right tire fairly quick. It should spin around 3/4 to 1 full rotation. This diff setting is common and can be adjusted slightly from there. Once this is set you CAN tighten the slipper with the front end rise method to get you in the ballpark, then adjust slightly according to how much traction is available in the track surface.

I was only off by a hundred bucks, my bad!! I just ordered the SC10B front shock tower and A arm from Hobby People. They also have a super shipping price of $1.85! What a deal! Both A main and tower are out till the end of the month.

Can you use the t4.2 slipper in the sc10 and if so what is needed to make the change

yes, it will mount with no mods

:nod::nod::nod::nod: