I have a 770 in my sc10, works great. it is fast on low profile.

great. thanks for the input. would you consider the torque is more than adequate for steering the 2wd sc10?

i tired searching but didnt quite find what i was looking for. I am looking into upgrading to a ball diff and cva kit for my rs. Between the MIP and the AE which do you prefer for both the diff and cva?

Thanks

B-Fast all the way !!! FT CVA kit it fine.
Or AE Complete Ball is great just buy Ceramic balls I would buy AE over the MIP anyday.

i put the mip cva kit and associated ball diff in my sc and it helped alot!

Everyone agree 84/18 is the way to go for my 7.5 Tekin? Racing on a large indoor track (SDRC) in San Diego. Thanks

84 will give you more top speed the 87 will give you little more bottom end. I would say 84/18 would be fine turn boost and turbo down to 0 then you can add it as you go. Watch your temps as well.

The Wedge
 

The new FT SC10B.1 Buggy:D This is what thay should have built!! My FT SC10 buggy conversion! Losi body,B4 T4 rear mount JCC wing Avid T4.1 hex conversion with DE Trinidad wheels. This thing is awsome!!

not really an scb. more like a t4/b4/sc10 with JC conversion

Question to all you guys using the BB springs- do the rear springs rub the camber links?

they do sometimes yes. there are a few easy fixes.

1) put a 1mm washer between the shock bottom and the arm to move the shock away from the rod.
2) if you are using the alum hubs and the C hub, mount the c hub on the backside of the alum hub.
here is a link to the c hub change.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...105822_520.jpg

The Associated 12mm springs fit my SC10FT just fine. The only problem is the front needs the AE +5mm or +9mm spring cup. If my local hobby shop doesn't have the new spring cups in stock (ASC91310) then I'll just use the shims for the non threaded shocks. Looks like they won't rub the rear camber links any more than the originals.

Just curious bone when you said your oil was too heavy what exactly did you feel that made you arrive at that conclusion? Have you you put in lighter oil now? How does that feel?

When I would hit bumps on the strait or any where, the front would bounce up. It wasn't soaking them up. Then when I dropped it from waist high, it wouldn't be close to bottoming out or chassis slap. It would just stop.
So I made a few changes. I dropped oil from 35 to 30 in front. I also went to the outside hole on a-arm.
In the rear I went from 30 to 27.5 and I went in to the inside hole on a arm and in a hole on tower. By going to inside hole will soften it along with lighter oil.

Add pictures to show new shock location. I'll test out tomorrow. I've been sick and hurt my back so I've been taking it easy. I also use a gasket on the bleed holes instead of o-rings. It was some Synthetic rubber I had laying around. You can find it at any Auto store.

Good info thanks.

I'll be getting a practice day in tomorrow with the new BB installed so I"m anxious to see how they feel. I've got 35 in the front and 30 in the rear but I'll bring along a few different oils and be prepared to make some adjustments. I like the rear shocks laying down for a particular part of the track that benefits from maximum side bite. It's a 90* after the long straight, so maybe 30wt will be about right but we'll see. We also have a couple of big jumps so I"m a little leery about going too light. I currently have the Avid white springs (Batch 2) in the back. I guess I could go a to the yellows for the jumps.