Thanks, also, I'm looking to replace my rear plastic hexes to aluminum or whatever is a good upgrade...I've noticed if I mount my rim one way I get wobble, but if I rotate it on the hex and mount it a different way, the rim runs true...I was thinking the plastic hex may be the problem. What would be some possible hex choices? TIA.

Also, does it matter if the hex is clamping or not?

SC10 Dirt Oval
 

Any one using there SC10 for Late Model Dirt Oval racing? If so any tips? What body are you running? Any must do mod's? Tires? Suspension? I will be running my FT SC10 with a Viper VTX10 and a 10.5 Reedy Sonic. Thanks in advance...

Tim

Tekin 7.5 Gearing
 

Looking for spur/pinion gear info for a 7.5 motor. Currently running the stock 87 tooth spur. Any advantages to using a smaller spur. Thanks

84/18 is a good place to start. You'll have quicker acceleration but lower top end.

Glitch buster wasn't enough for me. Either get the Castle Creations BEC or get a different radio system.

Go to the oval section and you will b able to get great tip and advice from there

Just something to start with or gauge off of not reccomending anything just showing you what i'm running.

Loose dirt with decent moisture
Castle Sidewinder SCT 3800kv system 20t pinion 84t spur
Blue front springs green rear 0-preload on RR, 18 turns on lr, 7 turns on rf, and 6 on lf
0.5 rear hub carriers
Aka super soft gridirons
Ran sct body first race but am going to try out the stalker sclm off my 4x4 next time out.
0 drag brake is a must on a loose top, I like to set mine up a little tight and just use momentum to carry me through the corners till i get back in the throttle.

Yup Team Futaba all the way and you will never have another glitch problem:D

im a futaba man myself and im not having any glitching either :nod:

I ran them for the first time today as well. They are really that good! I built them to the AE specs except I used 32.5 fr/30 rr Losi oil. I used the Avid springs and did what Jbone did with the short cup in front and the medium in the rear. I tried the longer cups but couldnt get the ride height correct. Started out with yellow front red rear which is the same as my V2 set up. It was pretty good but a little soft and lazy in the front end so I changed to reds in the front and BINGO! It was dialed. I used the spacers for today but im gonna notch out the towers for the next time because I dont like the angle at which the rear shock sits. I think it will give me a little more traction in the rear. But overall defiantely worth the wait.

I need to adjust mine a bit. As good as they were, my oil was too heavy. I'm going to drop mine and see how it feels.

I was on a medium to high bite clay track and I think my oil was really good. I could have used a little more rear bite but I think I will get it eliminating the spacers and notching the towers. I guess the AE springs must be a different length then the avids for them to recomend the tall spring cups because they definately wont work with Avid springs.

couldnt find anything in this thread but i read couple people elsrwhere had porblem fitting a d771 solar servo in their chassis ?

anyonr else have this experience?

if it doesn't I was thinking of getting the d227f and hopefully that will fit

who makes that servo by the way?

Thanks for the update i will be doing some testing on tues with these BB. Current setup is 35wt in front 1.5's - 30wt in rear and 1.7's White Springs in rear and Gray up front. Feels super smooth but little light in rear based off my last setup with V2 shocks and Kyosho springs. Im curiours on how you make out with gridning down shock towers instead of using spacers. Currently have spacers installed so let me know if you can notice difference without the spacers. Thanks. :nod: