Originally Posted by turbo2cam (Post 11503256)

clamping hexes squeeze around the axle...over tightening the wheel nut just cinches down the plastic wheel, to the aluminum hex...which puts a minor amount of pressure on the pin. The pin is made from harder material than the hex (both the roll pins, and the solid pins...both are steel, hexes are aluminum...axle is steel) All of which is supported on its axis by 2 roller bearings. So you mean to tell me that plastic and aluminum are exerting enough force on 2 steel pins, and snapping them? But leaving the softer aluminum, plastic wheel, and 2 roller bearings intact??? (all of which should give way before the steel axle/pin would...rear bearing failure in the rear is a prime example of things working how they should)

I'm a CAD/CAM programmer/machinist/designer by trade (15 years) The shop I work for specializes in aerospace/defense. If you dont want to take my word for it, I can use my extensive Solidworks skills and whip up a 3d model of the entire front end and run a gambit of stress analysis tests on it...or you could send me a broken axle, and I will run some NDT (Non destructive testing) and hardness tests on each axle. I know this is overboard (and I'm doing a bit of e-flexing lol) but is it really so hard to believe that AE's (or thunder tigers) supplier (most likely chinese) MFG'd these axles out of shit material??? I guess the picture is probably a little more clear to me since I work around stuff like this daily.

anyways...

(btw, ran my sc10, t4.1, and my sons b4.1 last night at the track for about 6 hours...no axle failures lolol)

:D

Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 11501931)

Ridiculous how?

Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 11505068)

I dropped my gen2 7.5 and it drives good. After one run my slipper was getting hot and losing power. I replaced my diff nut with one from my t4 an same issue but m t4 didn't do that. Anyone had this issue and I just bought new diff nuts. And other recommendations??

Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 11505068)

I dropped my gen2 7.5 and it drives good. After one run my slipper was getting hot and losing power. I replaced my diff nut with one from my t4 an same issue but m t4 didn't do that. Anyone had this issue and I just bought new diff nuts. And other recommendations??

Originally Posted by Slashdrivr (Post 11505546)

Put the VTS slipper on it, problem solved...

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 11505585)

I'm assuming you replaced the slipper nut, and not the diff nut, correct?

If the slipper was hot to the touch, then you can rest assured the pads are glazed. You want fresh, and clean pad material in contact with the slipper plates, so you can scrape the glazed portion off with an Xacto, flip the pads, or replace them.

Glazed pads will slip under a decent load, even with the slipper locked down. Once you get it cleaned up, make sure you set the slipper properly for the

track.

Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 11506023)

Is there a conversion kit on which part numbers I need?



Slipper nut...I mean. I replaced it and had the same issue. Ever had this problem on my t4 and b4. Weird

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 11506908)

IMO, your end points should be set to the mechanical limits of your steering assembly/suspension. I set mine so that the steering spindle hits the caster block. I set my EPA so that the servo isn't straining by trying to move past that point.

If you have too much steering, then I'd start with playing with your toe settings. If you still have too much steering, then use your dual rates, or turn the wheel less.