The FT alum b44 style rear hub carriers are nice. The inner bearing is larger.

I haven't had any issues from the rear hubs, as of yet, but do they have trouble out of em? I am just getting into really racing my sc10 so I'm beginning to see what is going out and what lasts haha

It's certainly not a must have.

Front caster blocks aren't usually an issue though.

To me, the only metal part that is mandatory is the front, lower hingepin brace.

The hingepin braces are nice, the advantage to the rear hubs is being able to use the Avid carbon towers for additional holes for more tuning options (for me).

The larger bearing certainly doesn't hurt. :)

you can get the larger bearing in the plastic b44 hubs. need a new crush rube also. The alum rear hubs are only needed for using C Hubs and a little more clearance when using BB shocks.

Thanks guys, real great info, I am gonna be gittin the bulk head to, I don't wreck a lot, these are the parts that I have broken when I first got the sc10 so I think once I get more used to it I will wreck even less:lol:

I would not get the bulk head unless you want to break more arms. Aluminum is not your friend.

Well I worked on my truck for 2 hours last night. Another couple hours and it will be race ready again. I removed all of the RPM stuff I had on it for my daughter. After much work, I believe the front rpm arms make it handles like crap. This is just a guess and I will verify this weekend. But I removed all of the rpm stuff and went with stock arms and bumpers. Added an alum rack and alum bulkhead (i will remove this once I pick up a plastic one). I have found that the alum bulkhead cause the arms to break WAY more than with the plastic bulkhead. I went from 3.5 deg toe in the rear to 3.0 with 2 deg anti squat. I am still running the .5 alum rear hubs with the Avid carbon upper in the A position with 2 ballstuds inside. I am starting with 3 washers up front. 5 limiters front and 3 in the rear. I am thinking i will try #3 ghea taper pistons in the front and #1 ghea piston in the rear. This is mainly because I want to go stiffer in the front. I really want to try and make this truck planted in the rear. And less hooking in the corners. I am going to try a gear diff with 3000 weight oil, but I have a ball diff ready to go in if i dont like it. I also added a vts slipper, but I cant find the b44 spring anywhere, so I am using the v2. I am going to start with the nut flush with the shaft for now. I added a carbon top plate in the front, mostly for durability. The plastic top plate strips out very easily from the bumper in bumper hits. Well that is about is so far. I am hoping this go around it will work well outdoors. if not, I will just run it at the local indoor track. I know for sure it works well there.

What are your guys thoughts on the +3mm wheels? In the b4 section they were saying that widening the buggy would take away traction. Less traction in the sc10 is NOT something I want. I want more side bite in the corners. i was originally thinking wider would make it better in the corners, now I am not so sure.

It does for me, the offset rims make the truck roll less IMO, but I don't think that the trucks wheels being wider or narow causes u to loose or gain traction, the traction is all in ur tires, then u set up the truck to handle the traction, by adjusting susp and toe in, and camber and so on.....someone correct me if I am wrong, it's just how I do it hhaha

Agreed. Just the front hingepin brace.

They work well. They make the truck generally more stable. If not a bit lazier in very tight/slow sections,but allow you to be more aggressive while carrying more speed overall. They make the truck roll a bit more, have a bit more overall side bite and traction. Really no drawbacks.

Ultimately if your setup is right, they just let you drive it a lot harder.

Don't use the width as a setup crutch.

well, there are 2 types of traction sidebite and forward bite. When your truck leans over in the turn it puts more weight over the outside tire and caused more camber gain for more side bite. As far as forward traction goes, I am sure it affects it less, but in my experience the further the wheels are from the tranny the less traction they have going forward. I tried a realllllllly wide offest once like 15mm per side on a buggy. And all it did was spin its wheels. It seems like the closer the wheels to the tranny its more like getting your feet under you. The increased width will give you stability and help prevent traction rolls. In fact, lets think about a traction roll. Why do you traction roll? because your outside tire is gripping really hard and the car rolls too far and it flips. How Often do you see a traction roll when the traction is very low. You wont, it will just slide. For this reason I have heard that some people use the +3mm in the front, or just in the rear or both for tuning. CAv, maifield and all of those guys are going super fast on really high bite tracks. So they would want it a little wider to prevent traction rolls and add more stability. Traction is mostly in your tires, but you can still mess with it with camber, camber gain and width.

I usually dont mess with camber. But Wildcat made a good post.
I usually dont have traction roll unless im running a tire that doesnt work
on that particular track. Example: Running Caliburs indoors, its a great outdoor tire, but indoors they are so loose it's not even funny. I have only used them outdoors.
Indoors the best tire I have used is Jconcepts barcodes, but I dunno if they make them for a Corr truck or not I have 2 different kinds for my 2wd buggy, but that's the tires im thinking about using inside. The hotbodies Corr truck tire is good too. I have never used a barcode outside either because I dont know
if they would work or not.

I live the +3 Avid wheels. My truck is hooked up!

Last club race I was only 1 second off of the 4wd sc TQ! Haha