Does anyone have links to good indoor setup sheets? im about to start my build

I would suggest you start with the kit set up and tune from there. The kit set up is a good starting place. I am still running near the kit set up on every track I go to, indoor or out. Biggest adjustment I made was the diff oils. I felt like the diff oils were to light. After a little research and asking some local Serpent drivers I am running 10/30/7 F,C,R.

I read the thread on cordless screwdrivers. The blue (not orange) big box store has the Hitachi DB3DL2 on clearance for $40 so I am going to pick one up.

Here's my list so far
Hex drivers: 2.0,2.5,3.0,4.0,5.0
Nut Drivers: 5.5, 7.0
Turnbuckle wrenches: 3mm, 4mm, 5mm

Am I missing anything else? I have been looking at EDS tools, a few bucks less than the Hudy.

Hey guys,

I just got a couple of parts for the 811 and can't figure/find out how they should be *properly* mounted/set up.

The parts I got are the Aluminium 14 C-Hubs (600665) and the alu steering blocks (600497).

How do the steering blocks fit in the c-hubs? They don't use the same screws/pins as the plastic standard parts, and there are no instructions on how to mount them together. The parts came with screws and metal/plastic bushings, but I'm not certain of what to use!


I looked for pictures online, but can't find anything that has both parts mounted on a car!



Thanks!

This may be easier to understand with a picture:

i.imgur.com/taemJfT.jpg

(I can't put in a complete URL...)

It's essentially a bushing inside a bushing and the washers are for height adjustment.

Thanks!

So as I have it now, with the 2 bushings+washer there is very little vertical movement (less than 1mm) when the screws are tightened. There is also less play compared to the standard composite parts.

I still have a hard time believing that I can't find anything "official" on how to install these parts from Serpent.

Ya, all the bushings are because of the compatibility with the other stock parts. You can run the aluminum carriers with the stock uprights. Or you can run the stock carriers with the aluminum hubs or any other combination.

I put them together without much issue. If you are running both aluminum pieces then you use all the bushings and shim with the washers where needed.

Definitely pick up the 2.0 and 2.5 speed tips. There are no screws that use a 4.0 and or 5.0 hex. There are two odd screws that hold the receiver cover on. I got a MIP 1.3 that is perfect.

Holy crap 30k in the center? The diffs were what I was wondering about. And I thought running 10k in the center of my tekno was heavy.

Don't forget the 2.0 internal gears are different than the 1.0,and others. So Serpent suggests running heavier rates of oil.

True, but that seems extreme, even for v2 diffs. I have V1 diffs and am building them 7/5/5 right now, V2 is usually 3-5k heavier from what I understand. Not sure how you get to 30k from there, but if it works, why not.

Hello racers, after some advice for a friend who wants to purchase a new 811 be rtr. If anyone has one, are they a good kit for club racing? Are there any issues with the shocks or bearings in the front and rear hubs? I have the factory 811 be 2.0 and love it but don't have any experience with the rtr version. I know it can be easily upgraded down the track but does it need to be?? Thanks in advance.

Regards, Andrew

I havent heard of any issues .. If hes planning to race than buying a roller would be the best option..or he can upgrade via ebay , theres alot of parts available. I perfer the 2.0 shock mounting along with its shock setup. Bashing and racing on a average occassion than the rtr is a great option.