5LikesSerpent 811E Buggy Thread
05-03-2013 | 02:50 PM
#3706
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 371
From: McDonough, GA
OMG, what a nightmare. For the life of me I can not get this gearbox to work smoothly. I have gone with 3 shims, 1 shim, no shims, 1 screw out on the driveshaft bearing... everything.
it works smoothly (the drive shaft is smooth and the driveshaft with the diff on top) with only one side of the gearbox used. However, when i put the other side of the gearbox on with the shock tower, it starts to bind. As i tighten the screws to normal tightness, the driveshaft is "crunchy" and feels hard to turn. If I loosen the screws to un acceptable levels, it rolls ok, but I really dont s
ee how this is normal guys.
I am beating my head against the wall trying to get this to work. I have read every post on this forum and nothing seems to help... I have no answers... ugh!!!
it works smoothly (the drive shaft is smooth and the driveshaft with the diff on top) with only one side of the gearbox used. However, when i put the other side of the gearbox on with the shock tower, it starts to bind. As i tighten the screws to normal tightness, the driveshaft is "crunchy" and feels hard to turn. If I loosen the screws to un acceptable levels, it rolls ok, but I really dont s
ee how this is normal guys.I am beating my head against the wall trying to get this to work. I have read every post on this forum and nothing seems to help... I have no answers... ugh!!!
05-03-2013 | 03:56 PM
#3707
Tech Addict
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 533
From: Calgary
05-04-2013 | 05:57 PM
#3710
This x1000. I had the same issue. Fought with my front diff for about 3 hours trying to figure out where it was binding (with no shims). The ring gear rubs the one phillips screw.
05-04-2013 | 07:57 PM
#3713
Take the screws out and use a drill bit (1/4" or so) to cut the plastic ridge that pops up when the screws are inserted. Then put back in, tighten, then loosen just a little. Running without the screws can eventually let the bearing spin in the plastic and that isn't good. Running without the screws may work, but it is good to have them in there to keep the gears where they are supposed to be. Over time the bearing may spin in the plastic without the screws.
05-05-2013 | 09:28 PM
#3717
There a small grub screw under the cover next too the antenna hole.
05-06-2013 | 05:56 AM
#3718
The antenna in my kit did not fit into the reciever box lid either, I had to ream the hole out a little bit to make it fit. There is a slot for the wires to run into the reciever box but it tight so I trimmed the reciver box a little bit too so the wires from the servo, esc and transmponder were not pinched.
05-06-2013 | 07:36 AM
#3719
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 569
The antenna in my kit did not fit into the reciever box lid either, I had to ream the hole out a little bit to make it fit. There is a slot for the wires to run into the reciever box but it tight so I trimmed the reciver box a little bit too so the wires from the servo, esc and transmponder were not pinched.
My wires going into the box are kinda crammed, but fit. But of course there is nothing wrong with making a bigger hole for wires.
05-06-2013 | 12:50 PM
#3720
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 411
+1, I've always just wired my antenna out of the receiver box, wrapped it tightly around a driver shank to coil it up and let it land or stand wherever (under the body). Recently went to do it 'right' on my 811b nitro and pulled that antenna-top nub off probably the 1st time I pulled the body off, then bent the antenna upon 1st lid-landing, and then lining up the hole everytime you mount the body.....Unnecessary.