Thinking of getting the 811e and currently drive Ae 8.2 and was wondering if anyone can give me an idea how it handles, differently or does it handle similar.

Cobra E-Buggy Ready To Race 1/8 ElectricPowered The RTR version of the successfull high end Serpent 1/8 Cobra Buggy. Complete with DragonRC 2.4 radio, metal-gear servo, brushless motor, waterproof speedo, prepainted-precut body and premounted offroadtyres 4-wheel-drive, 3 geardiffs, 16mm bigbore shocks, aluminium shocktowers and chassis, easy radiobox, sideguards, low batteryboxes, rear wing. Fully upgradable with parts and options from the high end race-version. This super durable Buggy chassis allows a great entry in the racing scene, at a lower cost, and will make you finish your races! Cobra E-Buggy RTR

Looks nice, be nice to find out the price compaired with the RC8 RTR

Guys running the Hobbywing 150A, how are you making it fit? I have ideas but am wondering what other people did.

I'm thinking of slitting the back of the ESC mount wall and running sensor wire straight thru and under the driveshaft..? That leaves the receiver and switch wires poking out the outside of the chassis which probably isn't a good idea either tho..

Suggestions?

EDIT: Never mind.. found pic earlier in thread of someone who did what I thought of doing.. I guess that will work.

OMG, what a nightmare. For the life of me I can not get this gearbox to work smoothly. I have gone with 3 shims, 1 shim, no shims, 1 screw out on the driveshaft bearing... everything.

it works smoothly (the drive shaft is smooth and the driveshaft with the diff on top) with only one side of the gearbox used. However, when i put the other side of the gearbox on with the shock tower, it starts to bind. As i tighten the screws to normal tightness, the driveshaft is "crunchy" and feels hard to turn. If I loosen the screws to un acceptable levels, it rolls ok, but I really dont see how this is normal guys.

I am beating my head against the wall trying to get this to work. I have read every post on this forum and nothing seems to help... I have no answers... ugh!!!

New kit? You referring to the front diff but the rear is smooth?

both my diffs are built properly... the drive train/gearbox in the front is the problem. when I assemble the gearbox, it binds... badly... no matter what the shim or screw situation is. I have tried every conceivable combo and nothing works.

the rear gearbox is smooth... rolls fine, but the front binds.

The only thing I havent done is taken my dremel tool and grinded away plastic.

Is this a new kit..

yes, its a new kit. I got it last week.

If you look back a couple pages to where i built my kit i had the same issue. Ran a couple packs through it and it smoothed out nicely.

I just removed the shims, made sure nothing was overtight, and ran it while keeping an eye on motor/esc temps. after about 10 min it was fine. now with a little over an hour on it, it is smooth as butter.

tight until breakin is a good thing, that means it will last once it wears in properly. sloppy before breakin makes for a super sloppy buggy.

I was able to turn the front driveshaft with my fingers once it was installed, but barely, it was difficult. now it's smooth.

NICE JOB rdeppen.

i can turn it with my thumb and fore finger, but its difficult and "chunky"... feels like its grinding slightly. its not smooth like the rear gearbox...

I just dont want to mess anything up on it.

Mine was exactly the same. Keep an eye on motor temps and run it a bit. make sure you have a little, and i mean little grease on the gears. I have a 13T pinion on mine, and my motor never got over 110 on the track while breaking it in, so if you have more gear make sure you keep an eye on it.

I would say you are good to go

I think car has way more steering than 8.2, less prone to traction rolling and 10X more durable if that helps .... but most of the time u going to be one of very few serpents at the track so setup and parts help is hard to find

I also think the serpent is much more planted on power then the 8.2. Biggest advantage I saw with the serpent was the ability to get on the gas.

Check and see if the diff gear is hitting one of the three small philips head screws that hold in the input shaft bearing. Most people just remove the screw that's right behind the diff gear.