5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-16-2011, 05:35 AM
#1126
Tech Adept
whats the best way to get to it? the fastest way. would appreciatet you guys help thanks ahead of time.
05-16-2011, 06:09 AM
#1127
I asked about 10 pages ago and never got a reponse. How long and wide are the nerf bars? Thanks
Nick
Nick
05-16-2011, 06:32 AM
#1129
Got mine all built... can't wait to race it. Thanks for all the info on here. Three of my shock shaft screws were loose. Diffs were empty. All set now!
My buddy that is getting into RC racing wants to buy the SC10 4x4 for the summer racing with 8th scale electronics like mine... but for the winter we race indoor carpet and they don't have a Pro4 class.
How hard would it be to make this thing 2wd for the winter? Would it be worth doing? He doesn't really want two vehicles.
This is what we were thinking and would this work?... remove belt and front axle shafts. add 48 pith spur/pinion gear and 13.5T motor (that's the limit in that class).
My buddy that is getting into RC racing wants to buy the SC10 4x4 for the summer racing with 8th scale electronics like mine... but for the winter we race indoor carpet and they don't have a Pro4 class.
How hard would it be to make this thing 2wd for the winter? Would it be worth doing? He doesn't really want two vehicles.
This is what we were thinking and would this work?... remove belt and front axle shafts. add 48 pith spur/pinion gear and 13.5T motor (that's the limit in that class).
05-16-2011, 06:36 AM
#1130
Got mine all built... can't wait to race it. Thanks for all the info on here. Three of my shock shaft screws were loose. Diffs were empty. All set now!
My buddy that is getting into RC racing wants to buy the SC10 4x4 for the summer racing with 8th scale electronics like mine... but for the winter we race indoor carpet and they don't have a Pro4 class.
How hard would it be to make this thing 2wd for the winter? Would it be worth doing? He doesn't really want two vehicles.
This is what we were thinking and would this work?... remove belt and front axle shafts. add 48 pith spur/pinion gear and 13.5T motor (that's the limit in that class).
My buddy that is getting into RC racing wants to buy the SC10 4x4 for the summer racing with 8th scale electronics like mine... but for the winter we race indoor carpet and they don't have a Pro4 class.
How hard would it be to make this thing 2wd for the winter? Would it be worth doing? He doesn't really want two vehicles.
This is what we were thinking and would this work?... remove belt and front axle shafts. add 48 pith spur/pinion gear and 13.5T motor (that's the limit in that class).
05-16-2011, 06:55 AM
#1132
Anyways... I will bring my SC10 4x4 to the track this week "Wednesday" for carpet racing and I will put it on the track during practice to see how it goes (haven't got to drive my 4x4 yet since it's raining non stop here all week) Maybe once he sees how well it drives... he will let us have a class. (but they already have 3 classes that are run... and we fishish at about 10:30pm already.
05-16-2011, 07:35 AM
#1134
Mini race report:
I ran the "1/10 E-Challenge" this weekend at Hemet and did some more tuning on my truck.
I ended up with 350 front and 325 rear in the shocks, 30,000F and 4,000R diff with a 2.0mm front swaybar on AKA City Block SS rears and Soft fronts. I also discovered how much smoother the truck drives with the clicker activated though if you are a throttle/brake jockey you will NOT like it.
The truck did everything pretty well. It turns and jumps good. However through the rough this thing feels like it has "0" suspension especially in the rear. Running the 3-2 block I wish I had a 3-0 block as I am not one that likes anti squat or much at all in the first place. All in all I think the biggest down fall is the shocks or rather the shock seals. These shocks have so much seal drag IMO they don't function well nor of course properly. I have already ordered some standard orings to replace them and try to resolve this problem.
More to come......
I ran the "1/10 E-Challenge" this weekend at Hemet and did some more tuning on my truck.
I ended up with 350 front and 325 rear in the shocks, 30,000F and 4,000R diff with a 2.0mm front swaybar on AKA City Block SS rears and Soft fronts. I also discovered how much smoother the truck drives with the clicker activated though if you are a throttle/brake jockey you will NOT like it.
The truck did everything pretty well. It turns and jumps good. However through the rough this thing feels like it has "0" suspension especially in the rear. Running the 3-2 block I wish I had a 3-0 block as I am not one that likes anti squat or much at all in the first place. All in all I think the biggest down fall is the shocks or rather the shock seals. These shocks have so much seal drag IMO they don't function well nor of course properly. I have already ordered some standard orings to replace them and try to resolve this problem.
More to come......
05-16-2011, 07:39 AM
#1135
That is in the first page and was suggest by Chris Jarosz from AE.
Try it out and let us know how that works.
05-16-2011, 08:05 AM
#1136
Got mine all built... can't wait to race it. Thanks for all the info on here. Three of my shock shaft screws were loose. Diffs were empty. All set now!
My buddy that is getting into RC racing wants to buy the SC10 4x4 for the summer racing with 8th scale electronics like mine... but for the winter we race indoor carpet and they don't have a Pro4 class.
How hard would it be to make this thing 2wd for the winter? Would it be worth doing? He doesn't really want two vehicles.
This is what we were thinking and would this work?... remove belt and front axle shafts. add 48 pith spur/pinion gear and 13.5T motor (that's the limit in that class).
My buddy that is getting into RC racing wants to buy the SC10 4x4 for the summer racing with 8th scale electronics like mine... but for the winter we race indoor carpet and they don't have a Pro4 class.
How hard would it be to make this thing 2wd for the winter? Would it be worth doing? He doesn't really want two vehicles.
This is what we were thinking and would this work?... remove belt and front axle shafts. add 48 pith spur/pinion gear and 13.5T motor (that's the limit in that class).
It should be easy to do. It is just removing parts that you don't need for winter and putting them back on for the outdoor season.
05-16-2011, 08:28 AM
#1137
i have a question im confused about. the kit comes with 2 slipper pads. do u use both of them or just one,and what happens to the other side without? is it metal to plastic gear?
05-16-2011, 08:29 AM
#1138
there is a detailed picture on the bottom of page 48 in the manual.
Last edited by RacerMike42; 05-16-2011 at 08:42 AM.
05-16-2011, 08:32 AM
#1139
Ae SC10 owns 4x4 Shortcourse @ TRCR N/w Gold Cup
Only changes made
35W in ft & 5m shim under ft camber ball studs....
body roll under control with the 35W
15T pinion, Novak 5.5 550, REEDY 5000 40c
Oyeah ,
The 2w Sc 10 body fits the 4x4 ....
35W in ft & 5m shim under ft camber ball studs....
body roll under control with the 35W
15T pinion, Novak 5.5 550, REEDY 5000 40c
Oyeah ,
The 2w Sc 10 body fits the 4x4 ....