SC10 4x4 Thread
#977
Tech Master
iTrader: (59)
I have. its a little tippy in the fast corners. I spent a good 2 hrs changing stuff and I'm going to try again today.
wish it was a little easier to work on. factory stripped a screw in the rear diff. left it at first just to get the truck built. an hour to remove the diff and replace the screw and oil (wich was nothing but a coating). in the process I striped the head off the lower motor mt screw. the chassy seem to get in the way so a good hex driver can't get straight on. just something to watch out for.
wish it was a little easier to work on. factory stripped a screw in the rear diff. left it at first just to get the truck built. an hour to remove the diff and replace the screw and oil (wich was nothing but a coating). in the process I striped the head off the lower motor mt screw. the chassy seem to get in the way so a good hex driver can't get straight on. just something to watch out for.
#978
#982
Tech Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Abrams, WI (Yes the same town as CJ & John Greaves)
Posts: 821
Has anyone found an overtray that fits the SC10-4x4? I race in conditions that could fill up the chassis with loose dirt.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#983
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
I got to race mine yesterday, and had a blast. It was my first 4x4 sct race in over a year. I used some medium gladiators and they were hooked up when the track was wet. Made it into the A mains, got into 3rd after 2 laps, and my only complaint is if you are racing against guys who like to bump, the truck gets upset easyer than the others, so I got bumped around and crashed, got put in last, worked back into the middle and finished. Oh, and going down the straight we have a 90deg turn, my truckk wanted to roll. It would definatly benefit the truck having some swaybars, just ordered the losi swaybar kit. The truck easily outrurned any other truck on the track, once I get the swaybar kit I should be able to hit the turns harder.
On another note, Im using the castle 1410, and my motor temps wer 160 running 32p 14t pinion. The top end was a little slow. Also my speedo was running pretty warm 160ish, usin a HOBBYWING SC10 esc, but the combo and truck was buttery smooth. Not sure if the heat is from some binding in the tranny? Today after church Ill tear it down ad double check.
On another note, Im using the castle 1410, and my motor temps wer 160 running 32p 14t pinion. The top end was a little slow. Also my speedo was running pretty warm 160ish, usin a HOBBYWING SC10 esc, but the combo and truck was buttery smooth. Not sure if the heat is from some binding in the tranny? Today after church Ill tear it down ad double check.
#984
#985
The Hobby Barn in Terre Haute Indiana still has 3 on the shelf. 812-299-5773 ask for John. Shop will be open from 10-5 today.
#986
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
OK guys, on turnbuckles...
LNS11074
LNS11078
LNS11079
The first one is close enough to 65mm to be "good 'nuff". The 2nd one is 3.125", which is 5mm shorter than what's spec'd stock. LNS11079 is 3.25", which is 82mm.
So, LNS 11074 and LNS 11079 are the Lunsford turnbuckles we should be ordering for this truck, right?
Should we be putting RC8 rod ends and ball ends on from the get-go, or are these suckers gonna be stout enough? ThunderbirdJunkie's experience with AE's ballcups on 1/10 stuff (never had a 1/8 AE car, and the SC10 4w seems to fall in between) would normally suggest otherwise, but he has high hopes for this truck since it's all new.
LNS11074
LNS11078
LNS11079
The first one is close enough to 65mm to be "good 'nuff". The 2nd one is 3.125", which is 5mm shorter than what's spec'd stock. LNS11079 is 3.25", which is 82mm.
So, LNS 11074 and LNS 11079 are the Lunsford turnbuckles we should be ordering for this truck, right?
Should we be putting RC8 rod ends and ball ends on from the get-go, or are these suckers gonna be stout enough? ThunderbirdJunkie's experience with AE's ballcups on 1/10 stuff (never had a 1/8 AE car, and the SC10 4w seems to fall in between) would normally suggest otherwise, but he has high hopes for this truck since it's all new.
If anyone else needs to know, the turnbuckles are 3.5mm. I got me some lunsford titanium buckles on the way
PART# 11073 (FRONT CAMBER & STEERING)
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=3-5MM
PART# 11078 (REAR CAMBER)
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=3-5MM
PART# 11073 (FRONT CAMBER & STEERING)
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=3-5MM
PART# 11078 (REAR CAMBER)
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=3-5MM
11078 measures out to: 79.37mm .... Stock is 80mm
You don't want to go longer with this turnbuckle cause you will se a problem with them bottoming out in the rodends I have my lunsford turnbuckles already an they fit perfect
#987
#989
I was a little disappointed that this truck was so easy to build.
Can't wait to try it at the track today.
I basically did the box paint scheme but swapped the red for my normal Fluorecent Orange/Blue/White scheme.
Picked up some 2mm and 1.5mm music wire and made sway bars using some old CEN mounting hardware I had laying around. They came out awesome. look like something you would buy.
We'll see how she goes today.
Is there a fingers crossed smilie I can use... lol
To bad I'm a terrible painter. Good at putting it on, just not so good at waiting for it to dry.
Can't wait to try it at the track today.
I basically did the box paint scheme but swapped the red for my normal Fluorecent Orange/Blue/White scheme.
Picked up some 2mm and 1.5mm music wire and made sway bars using some old CEN mounting hardware I had laying around. They came out awesome. look like something you would buy.
We'll see how she goes today.
Is there a fingers crossed smilie I can use... lol
To bad I'm a terrible painter. Good at putting it on, just not so good at waiting for it to dry.
Last edited by JW91; 05-15-2011 at 07:55 AM.
#990
Tip
A 2m ball end driver is most helpful when installing the pinion gear ....
A 2m ball end driver is most helpful when installing the pinion gear ....