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SC10 4x4 Thread
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http://twitter-badges.s3.amazonaws.com/twitter-a.png and http://www.coral.org/files/images/Fa...logo_small.jpg Team Associated SC10 4x4 http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...60x2048_md.jpg Index
1. Specs Power Source: Electric Terrain: Off-Road Body Style: Truck Scale Size: 1:10 Scale Assembly Level: Kit* Length: 550mm (21.65in) Width: 293mm (11.54in) Wheelbase: 327mm (12.87in) Weight: 2775g (6.12 lbs) Internal Gear Ratio: 2.57:1 Drive: 4WD * This vehicle comes as a kit and must be fully assembled by the user. Electronics and/or an engine/motor may be required. 2. Required to Complete
3. Tool Sizes
4. Manufacturer Links Official AE Product Page Specs Manuals / Setups Parts Pictures/Videos 5. Wheels
6. Body Yes, the SC10 2wd body fits, it’s a direct drop on, no mods needed. 7. Gearing
Gearing Recommendation as per the instruction manual: (thanks to swimmerx7) http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8766385/RCTe...kGearChart.png User Gearing Recommendations http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8766385/RCTech/UserGearing.png 8. Electronincs 8.a Motors When using 540 motors, use the motor manufacturer's largest rotor option. For LRP 540 motors, this is the 13mm option.(Rick Howart)
8.a Speed Controls Castle Sidewinder SC/SV2 Spoke with Castle about the SCT system esc getting hot. Here is what they said
9. Diff & Shock Info Stock shock oil:
Stock Springs and Rates
Shock Piston sizes:
Diff fluid starting points *** PEOPLE ARE REPORTING THAT THE DIFFS ARE COMING WITH NO OR A VERY LOW AMOUNT OF DIFF FLUID. OPEN UP YOUR DIFFS AND MAKE SURE THERE IS ENOUGH OIL IN THEM!! ***
10. Setup and Tuning Info Ride height Measure from between the center/front chassis and center/rear chassis. 10a Sway Bars I PMd Rick Howart on May 9, 2011 about the availability of sway bars. His response was: "It looks like sometime later this month for the bars. The truck is easier to drive without them but faster with them." 10b Pullys If you run the 19t overdrive clicker it will make your front tires pull more then the rear allowing you more throttle out of the corner especially on loose tracks 10c Diff Oil Some notes on using 60k weight oil in the front are here and here. 10d Clicker The clicker is best used in either an on or off mode. This means either turn it all the way locked down, or loosen it right up.(Rick_Howart) Most people will be faster with the clicker locked in almost all instances even if feel you have less steering. You will more than make up for this with the ability to brake harder and/or more effectively.(Rick_Howart) 11. Aftermarket Parts
12. Build Notes & Tips General Info: If you are missing any parts from your kit, call AE customer support at (949) 544-7500. You can email them at [email protected] but will get a better, faster response if you call them. Build Videos 15 minute time lapse build video from SaladFork. 6 minute time lapse build video from jjlove. 13. **** Known Issues and Fixes **** 13a Wheels Some aftermarket wheels are too thick to allow the stock lock nut to thread all the way to the nylon (ProLine ProTracs for example). This prevents the locking action from happening. Serrated nuts can be used to lock into the wheel. This is also a good idea to use on stock wheels as well, since the nut will come loose eventually.
13b Servo Wire
Servos verifid as being too short:
13c Diff Fluid levels are too low
13d Transmission Case binds
13e Shocks The screw inside the shocks that holds the piston to the shaft may not be tight enough, and will come loose. Apply some thread lock to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off, and ruining your shocks. [b]13f Dirt Getting into Spur/Pinion Gear How the junk gets in is from a motor mount adjustment slot. Looking from the motor side of the mount towards the front of the motor you can see the slot is open. It's easier to see when the gear cover is off. Fix, from the spur side on a bit of tape to cover the holes after you have set the gear mesh.(tmail55) 10f Page-Specifc Notes Page 1: Yes, you can skip the servo install and continue building the kit. (RacerMike). Skip ahead to page 8. On page 10 leave the belt cover off of the front transmission and mount the trans by itself in the front chassis plate. You can also install the front shock tower and suspension, shocks, body mount. When you get the servo and build the assembly it will drop right on, put the belt cover and clicker on and slide the front chassis assembly onto your finished center/rear section. (RacerMike) Use threadlock on the servo horn screw. Page 4 The front inner body mount #91004 attaches to the front chassis brace #91014. Each side of the brace has two small holes next to the inner body mount that can be plugged with small setscrews. (Troy_Konitzer) http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8766385/RCTe...gPostHoles.png Page 7 Make sure to apply a small amount of black grease on the servo saver halves before building the servo saver. Page 8 Use a bit of Green Slime, #1105, on the 91005 paper diff seal to help prevent fluid leakage from the differentials. Page 9, 12: Open up the pre-assembled diffs and check the fluid level. Lots of people have reported that they are empty or very low on fluid. Probably a good idea to buy some extra fluid when buying the kit. Page 10 Check the front gearbox screws. There are three screws for the front gearbox, two are 24mm and one is 26mm. I accidentally put the 26mm for the lower screw. This caused the screw to come through the other side and bind the front clicker pulley flange 91013, causing unwanted tension. (stvnmccc) Grease the front clicker to quiet it down (racer1812) Page 10, 13 The screws for the rear transmission case, #89226 (M3x26) and #89225 (M3x24), do not have to be completely tightened down. They just have to be snug enough to hold the motor plate. Over tightening can cause drag in the drive train. Be sure to use Factory Team thread lock #1596 before installing the screws as well! Page 11 When assembling the clicker assembly apply a drop of CA to the nylon on the adjustment nut. This will help to prevent the nut from backing off. Also use a small amount of black grease on the clicker teeth to keep it quiet. Page 13 Add 1 ball stud washer, #9630, on each of the M3x26 and M3x24 transmission case screw. Page 14: Page 14 Camber link hole, use outer rather than inner. (mca). Confirmed by Chris Jarosz: "The manual is incorrect. You will want to run the ballstud on the outer hole in the front." Page 14, 15 Use a very small dab of threadlock to hold the threaded ball stud inserts, #91021, into the shock towers. Make sure to apply some thread lock on the inner ball studs pages 14 & 15. This will help prevent them from loosening up while running. Page 16, 20 Use a very-very small drop of CA on the wheel hex pins #91027. This helps keep the pins in the axles when you remove the wheels or remove the hexes. Page 18 Be extra careful to use the correct screws to hold on the front hinge pin brace! Double check that they are 10mm long ones, #25620 and not 12mm in the rest of that part of the build. Using too long of screws can cause the front transmission to bind. Page 21 Make sure to apply some thread lock to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off. Remove the upper X-Ring, #91055, this will free up the shocks and takes a lot of the stiction away and the shocks will feel much smoother. Don’t forget that the shock cartridge seal tube is directional! If you are running without shock boots, #91070, on the shocks, you must add up travel limiters to avoid damaging the bladder. Bladder vs Emulsion A bladder shock will have more pack than an emulsion shock, with the same oil and same piston...but thats because the oil doesn't become an emulsified froth in a bladder shock. When the air and oil mix it becomes "lighter" in viscosity. While going lighter in oil increases traction and decreases pack, it does so equally in both style shocks, just far more consistently in a bladder shock as there's no way to correctly gauge the amount of air is actually in your emulsion build, and there's also no changing from start to finish as the oil and air are in different stages of emulsion. Having a bladder allows you to build your shocks with more, and more consistent rebound. Faster rebound creates more traction as it keeps your tire on the racing surface. It also keeps your shocks consistent from start to finish of a race, as the air and oil never mix. (Ridley) Page 22 Bleeding the shocks when building them with bladders: Fill the shock with oil and move the shaft halfway up. Next put the bladder on, you might have to push down a bit to help it seat better. Now screw the cap on completely. Wipe the excess oil off and you're done. (Chris Jarosz) When running bladders, you can remove the bleeder screw to reduce the air-spring effect caused by the air being trapped above the bladder. Shocks: I suggest taking all 4 shocks apart because including myself, 3 people had a problem with the screw coming off the top of the shock shaft that holds the piston on. It came off on one of my shocks so I checke them all and they were loose. Nothing a lil loctite can't fix. (novak12) Page 27 If you are having major problems with not being able to get the slipper tightened down, put 2 shims after the thrust washer and problem is SOLVED!! The thrust washer was machined too thin causing the problem. (JoeC) Page 28 What the manual doesn't explain is that if you use the optional 19t pulley the described tensioner settings will allow the belt to be loose. (RaceCrafter) Use the high-torque slipper pad, #91170, on the outer slipper hub only when using 550 motors. Page 29 From the spur side of the motor mount, stick on a bit of tape to cover the motor adjustment slot holes after you have set the gear mesh to prevent dirt from getting in.(tmail55) Page 39 Can use HPI or Traxxas wheel nuts when using ProLine (or any) wheel. These nuts have serrated edge to lock into the wheel. Adding thread lock will help the wheels nuts from backing off during operation. 14. Videos
15. Files |
very nice start. I hope this takes off and stays clean.
I made a small parts order this morning. first lhs to get 1, gets my $ (closest lhs is an hour, 2cd is 1:45. 15mpg x 4$ per gallon....who cares at this point) |
does anyone have the sway bars for it yet ?
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Is everybody staying with 3k in the diffs? What about on a loose dirt outdoor track? Thanks
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The Tekin SC Motors are 66mm in length, same as the LRP SC Motors. And AE Recommends there SC motor of course to run in it. So Tekin and LRP motors should both fit. The Ballistic is 72 mm The Viper Motors are 72 mm long as well, as stated in this post by Viper http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9067506
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Thank you CraigV, someone needed to step up and start this.
I think this is the gearing recommendation (copied from manual):
4.5 turn = 12t pinion 5.5 turn = 13t pinion
5.5 turn = 15t pinion 6.5 turn = 16t pinion 7.5 turn = 17t pinion If this is the case then my question is: Where does the Castle 1410 1y 3800 kV brushless motor fit? Is 1y = 1 turn? What pinion should us castle 4 pole guys start with in 48pitch? (I personally have never stripped a 48p, but stripped numerous 32p) |
Originally Posted by swimmerx7
(Post 9084756)
Where does the Castle 1410 1y 3800 kV brushless motor fit? Is 1y = 1 turn? What pinion should us castle 4 pole guys start with in 48pitch? (I personally have never stripped a 48p, but stripped numerous 32p) |
I definitely like this thread more than the "official" sc10 4x4 thread. I hope we can keep this thread technical.
I plan on using the 32p spur with a 14-15T on my CC 1410 motor. I'll be using it with my RX8 ESC. Great combo and works great on my heavy SCTE. It should haul a*s on the SC10 4x4. |
This is great Craig! Thanks:)
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer
(Post 9084562)
Is everybody staying with 3k in the diffs? What about on a loose dirt outdoor track? Thanks
Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly
(Post 9084795)
In general you should go by the KV rating to determine which pinion. A 3800KV is close to the 5.5t 550 motors sho I would go with the 13t 32P pinion and check speed vs. temps.
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Originally Posted by swimmerx7
(Post 9084834)
i'll be staying with 3k, solely to decrease build time
that's actually simple enough for me, thx You might want to reconsider doing that. My buddy (team driver) decided to look inside his diffs before installing them and found just enough 3000wt diff lube to coat the gears. He had to fill his diffs. I know I'll be checking mine before installing them.. Just some food for thought... |
Originally Posted by Keep'N It Cool
(Post 9084675)
The Tekin SC Motors are 66mm in length, same as the LRP SC Motors. And AE Recommends there SC motor of course to run in it. So Tekin and LRP motors should both fit. The Ballistic is 72 mm The Viper Motors are 72 mm long as well, as stated in this post by Viper http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9067506
I have a TEKIN RS-PRO system with an 8.5. What pinion / spur recommendations are out there? |
Repost from the other thread
Just in case you missed it, Hmmmm, seems like Novak designed a Ballistic 550 for this truck specificaly??Not sure as they as it seems to have the same dimensions as the others?? Maybe it's just Tower trying to appeal more to the Ae 4wd crowd or it really was designed for this truck, hence implying it's different from the other ballistic 550 systems..Check it out:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBGEX&P=0 Let's keep this thread going with objective, and contructive info about this truck :nod:...Good move!! |
Originally Posted by Sarinexia
(Post 9084923)
This thread couldn't have come at better timing for me. I just purchased an SC10.
I have a TEKIN RS-PRO system with an 8.5. What pinion / spur recommendations are out there? I talked to Tekin as did one of my Tekin team driver friends and they do not recommend the pro in any 4x4 at all. They say you must run the RX8 ESC in 4x4's... Give'm a call...first. |
Originally Posted by MarqueeRc
(Post 9084938)
Just in case you missed it, Hmmmm, seems like Novak designed a Ballistic 550 for this truck specificaly??Not sure as they as it seems to have the same dimensions as the others?? Maybe it's just Tower trying to appeal more to the Ae 4wd crowd or it really was designed for this truck, hence implying it's different from the other ballistic 550 systems..Check it out:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBGEX&P=0 Let's keep this thread going with objective, and contructive info about this truck :nod:...Good move!! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-45T-SC10-4x4 |
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