5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-31-2011, 07:38 PM
#2626
I got my new SC10 4w wheels today from DE Racing. The are a ton stiffer than the Losi wheel. Pictures show the Losi wheel vs the new AE wheel. They have about 1mm a wheel wider off-set too them to than the Losi wheel. They make them in Black, White, Silver, and Yellow. I run black because they are faster. 
05-31-2011, 07:42 PM
#2627
05-31-2011, 07:42 PM
#2628
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
What kind of run times you guys getting with the 1410? I'm running it with a mamba monster and I'm only getting 14 min with a 40c 2s geared 13t 32p? My buddies running a a rs with the 550 4.5 and he gets close to double my run time, 25 min I'd say. Truck has no binding and motor is coming off at 155~
05-31-2011, 07:58 PM
#2629
I hope to have our SC10 4x4 wheels in black available through the website by Thursday morning.
05-31-2011, 08:03 PM
#2630
Got my 4x4 back together. It turns out you have you to use a 2.5mm screw for a Hitec Servo, not the 3 mm.
Now for the good stuff, I ran it in front of my house, holy crap does this thing have explosive acceleration!!
Fookin awesome!!!! I can't wait to practice this on a track.
Can someone tell me EXACTLY what parts to get from my lhs to build the sway bars?
I dont have a vice to bend the wire so how would I know how much to bend?
<<<< super happy now.
Now for the good stuff, I ran it in front of my house, holy crap does this thing have explosive acceleration!!
Fookin awesome!!!! I can't wait to practice this on a track.
Can someone tell me EXACTLY what parts to get from my lhs to build the sway bars?
I dont have a vice to bend the wire so how would I know how much to bend?
<<<< super happy now.
Someone in an earlier post mentioned going to a music store to get music wire. You won't have much luck...go to your hobby shop instead and pick up at least a piece of 2mm wire. If you don't know what it is, you'll know after you ask. It's only a buck per, so get some 1.5 and 2.5 also.
I just sat down and started eyeballing things. Then grabbed an adjustable wrench, a sharpy and some needle nose pliers. Bent one side up to fit, then measured and marked the other side up and done. The most important thing is to make sure they're fairly even and absolutely flat side to side (gotta sit flat and level on a flat and level surface).
Then REMOVE YOUR SHOCKS and install the bars. Flex your arms up and down push one bar down while holding the other up, let it go...what you are trying to accomplish is a relatively even spring rate side to side, so that when everything is hooked up and you put it on the track, you get relatively the same amount of pressure on both sides.
To tie the bars to the tranny case, get creative. I just pulled assorted hardware out of various parts boxes and used part of a parts box to boot.
Have fun with it, it's a hobby!
I'm reposting my tranny case mount...
05-31-2011, 08:08 PM
#2631
ok cool.
I talked to a fellow racer who told me he has a 4x4 and he gave some tips, changing shock locations , run 30k up front and sway bars.
I'm gonna see if I can have these fabbed up by Sunday, it'll be my first race.
driving it on the street was awesome, this thing brakes great!
I talked to a fellow racer who told me he has a 4x4 and he gave some tips, changing shock locations , run 30k up front and sway bars.
I'm gonna see if I can have these fabbed up by Sunday, it'll be my first race.
driving it on the street was awesome, this thing brakes great!
05-31-2011, 08:29 PM
#2633
.
05-31-2011, 08:30 PM
#2634
I'm running 1410/mmp, 16/62 ratio 32p. 5000mah 40c battery, getting solid 18 minute run times. 120k f/diff, 5k r/diff, 35wt rear, 40wt front, 2.0mm sways front and rear. Ride height set at 25mm. Battery position is full forward, I've noticed that forward weight makes a big difference. I'm going to relocate my receiver and speed control further forward, I really dont want to add extra weight. Using the stock slipper hub and pad, I've already spun approx 150-175 laps..LOVING the truck the more I drive it. Slipper has not been adjusted once, no glazing. I must be one of the lucky ones! Even with 120k ft diff fluid, I can still turn inside all other 4wd's, including Losi's! My buddy has been trimming weight from his SCTE and has now induced both traction rolling and spin outs, go figure!
The truck does have to be driven differently than the three diff trucks, but if you go into it with an open mind, you will learn its characteristics quickly.
I am already faster with the SC10 than I was with my Jammin. I'll admit I was put off by the initial driving experience with the truck, but now I'm in love!
The truck does have to be driven differently than the three diff trucks, but if you go into it with an open mind, you will learn its characteristics quickly.
I am already faster with the SC10 than I was with my Jammin. I'll admit I was put off by the initial driving experience with the truck, but now I'm in love!
05-31-2011, 08:53 PM
#2635
This Truck Is Amazing!!!
I had to make some adjustment that really helped the truck along.
1. I really like the 19tooth overdrive in the front as it really helps pull the truck off the corners in low to medium traction.
2. I moved the rear shocks to the inner hole on the tower. This really helped the rear end lock down on the throttle but the truck still turned in very well.
3. I unscrewed the shock ends one full turn all the way around to give the truck a little more droop. The track was a not super smooth and this alone made the truck work just that much better.
4. If I would have had more time I would have went up one more weight in the front to slow down the weight transfer but I was able to hit the brakes very hard to get slowed down. The crazy thing is when you get the brakes set just right you can break into the corner and still turn in under braking... This greatly allowed for later braking and faster corner entry.
I am very happy with the truck and only look forward to putting more time into the setup and more wheel time on the track.
Good Job AE...
I would be happy to share setup if you like.
1. I really like the 19tooth overdrive in the front as it really helps pull the truck off the corners in low to medium traction.
2. I moved the rear shocks to the inner hole on the tower. This really helped the rear end lock down on the throttle but the truck still turned in very well.
3. I unscrewed the shock ends one full turn all the way around to give the truck a little more droop. The track was a not super smooth and this alone made the truck work just that much better.
4. If I would have had more time I would have went up one more weight in the front to slow down the weight transfer but I was able to hit the brakes very hard to get slowed down. The crazy thing is when you get the brakes set just right you can break into the corner and still turn in under braking... This greatly allowed for later braking and faster corner entry.
I am very happy with the truck and only look forward to putting more time into the setup and more wheel time on the track.
Good Job AE...
I would be happy to share setup if you like.
05-31-2011, 08:59 PM
#2636
I had to make some adjustment that really helped the truck along.
1. I really like the 19tooth overdrive in the front as it really helps pull the truck off the corners in low to medium traction.
2. I moved the rear shocks to the inner hole on the tower. This really helped the rear end lock down on the throttle but the truck still turned in very well.
3. I unscrewed the shock ends one full turn all the way around to give the truck a little more droop. The track was a not super smooth and this alone made the truck work just that much better.
4. If I would have had more time I would have went up one more weight in the front to slow down the weight transfer but I was able to hit the brakes very hard to get slowed down. The crazy thing is when you get the brakes set just right you can break into the corner and still turn in under braking... This greatly allowed for later braking and faster corner entry.
I am very happy with the truck and only look forward to putting more time into the setup and more wheel time on the track.
Good Job AE...
I would be happy to share setup if you like.
1. I really like the 19tooth overdrive in the front as it really helps pull the truck off the corners in low to medium traction.
2. I moved the rear shocks to the inner hole on the tower. This really helped the rear end lock down on the throttle but the truck still turned in very well.
3. I unscrewed the shock ends one full turn all the way around to give the truck a little more droop. The track was a not super smooth and this alone made the truck work just that much better.
4. If I would have had more time I would have went up one more weight in the front to slow down the weight transfer but I was able to hit the brakes very hard to get slowed down. The crazy thing is when you get the brakes set just right you can break into the corner and still turn in under braking... This greatly allowed for later braking and faster corner entry.
I am very happy with the truck and only look forward to putting more time into the setup and more wheel time on the track.
Good Job AE...
I would be happy to share setup if you like.
05-31-2011, 09:00 PM
#2637
Losi Shock Part Number
I have heard there is a Losi shock that is a bolt-on replacement for the stock SC10 shocks. Can anyone confirm that the part number is LOSA5417? I'm sure it is in here somewhere but I am not clever enough to be able to search the 170 some pages. Thanks.
Pete
Pete
05-31-2011, 09:25 PM
#2638
Follow Up
Do I feel that I need a stiffer spring when I lay the shocks down?
Great Questions, I would say not in the rear but I would like a stiffer spring for the front. The one tendency the truck had was when the front was weighted really heavy say on a downhill turn in or a turn right after a double where you land noise down and the front is heavy the truck wanted to roll over toomuch on the front. I think a bit more oil and stiffer spring would bring this truck from good to great.
Front Setup:
Stock Piston - Shock Boot Removed and Emulsion not Bladder.
30Wt Oil
Middle on tower on the tower and stock position on the arm (I think outer hole)
Inner camber link move to outside with 3mm washer under inner ball.
1 Degree Camber
1.5 Degree Toe Out
1 Turn out on shock Shaft for more droop
2mm Bar
Rear Setup:
Stock Piston - Shock Boot Removed and Emulsion not Bladder.
25Wt Oil
Inner hole on tower and stock position on the Arm (I think Inner Hole)
Stock Camber link locations
1 Degree Camber
1 Turn out on Shock Shaft
2mm Bar
Motor/ESC/Gearing
4.5 Turn Team Epic D3 550 Motor
Stock Spur Gear and 13 Tooth Pinion (32P)
19T Front Clicker Gear (Front Overdrive)
Tekin RX8 ESC - No Timing Advance
ReVtech 6000Mah 60C Lipo Pack
I started at a 25mm ride height all around but ended up at 26 front and 25 back.
The truck was a rocket with tons of power and overall performed Very well. As I stated before, I am very happy with the truck.
Great Questions, I would say not in the rear but I would like a stiffer spring for the front. The one tendency the truck had was when the front was weighted really heavy say on a downhill turn in or a turn right after a double where you land noise down and the front is heavy the truck wanted to roll over toomuch on the front. I think a bit more oil and stiffer spring would bring this truck from good to great.
Front Setup:
Stock Piston - Shock Boot Removed and Emulsion not Bladder.
30Wt Oil
Middle on tower on the tower and stock position on the arm (I think outer hole)
Inner camber link move to outside with 3mm washer under inner ball.
1 Degree Camber
1.5 Degree Toe Out
1 Turn out on shock Shaft for more droop
2mm Bar
Rear Setup:
Stock Piston - Shock Boot Removed and Emulsion not Bladder.
25Wt Oil
Inner hole on tower and stock position on the Arm (I think Inner Hole)
Stock Camber link locations
1 Degree Camber
1 Turn out on Shock Shaft
2mm Bar
Motor/ESC/Gearing
4.5 Turn Team Epic D3 550 Motor
Stock Spur Gear and 13 Tooth Pinion (32P)
19T Front Clicker Gear (Front Overdrive)
Tekin RX8 ESC - No Timing Advance
ReVtech 6000Mah 60C Lipo Pack
I started at a 25mm ride height all around but ended up at 26 front and 25 back.
The truck was a rocket with tons of power and overall performed Very well. As I stated before, I am very happy with the truck.
05-31-2011, 09:39 PM
#2640
Shock Boots...
You don't have to limit the up travel regarding any issue with the pistons. I could see where the piston could hit the bladder but when built with just the seal I do not see a reason to limit the up-travel unless it is a tuning need.
Maybe to prevent the truck from rolling too much? Not sure that would be a good idea but anyone have an opinon on that? Could removing the boots cause the truck to roll too far in a heavy front load situation where it rolls over as far as the shock allows?
Maybe to prevent the truck from rolling too much? Not sure that would be a good idea but anyone have an opinon on that? Could removing the boots cause the truck to roll too far in a heavy front load situation where it rolls over as far as the shock allows?