seriusly +30 damm is it like that on all servos ore ive got the savox sc-1258 on the way whit my truck anybody knows if that will fit the horns ore will i need that +30 bs to??

sorry if this had been asked before but I am not reading thru 625 pages at work first.

What servo's are you using?

I got to run mine the first time and was told by a couple of people that one of the t-pro high torque servos from hobbypartz would hold up in this. But with three minutes in the main I striped out the servo.

I should have known better than expect a 12 dollar off name part to work.

ThunderbirdJunkie's 6040 served him well in the 4w SC10, and as such it's become his go-to servo for all his 1/10 stuff.

Spectrum 6040?

Thanks

One page one it has a list. I use a 6030. 240 ounces. If you check page one. Lists of how stuff works in this rig is "usually" what most of us are using.


Yeah. Spektrum is a JR spline. The Futaba would not go on by hand. I truly used a hammer and force pounded it on. If It splits or spins out, I couldn't do it by hand; roughly 50 pounds of torquing on it by hand would not budge it and was bending the whole steering setup first. So I'm happy. I forgot the ^%%#$ blue disk around the servo horn though. /BadluckCoyote

Hopefully i'll get back on the track today.

Edit: Those guys saying to limit the steering and all is well?. No. =) I'm losing 45% of my steering one way or the other. That's "wrong" and my servo at 100% doesn't bind. I'm not giving up steering. Thanks for the suggestion though.

i use Ko Propo PDS2367ICS servos.. in just about anything..

Something i tried.. was the overdrive pulley this weekend.. and seemed the belt wouldnt tighten up that well.. i run my front locked.. no clicker.. and when brake hard.. i hear something clicking.. hoping its not the front diff, or idler gears.. lol.. i am going to be inspecting it tonight or tomorrow night..

Somethings i have done, to the stock truck.. to get the truck much better.. btw.. the truck when i bought it was built but never run.. and bone stock. nothing done to it.. i raced it like that.. then did the following

32,5 front shock, 27.5 rear.. that was one big thing..

then after a night of racing.. and loosness everywhere..

10k diff, front, 5k rear.. will be going up in the front again.. 15-20k this time..

Sway bars..

rear longer camber link.. and also put 2mm shim under the inner ball stud..

also moved the rear shock, to the outer hole in the tower, and outer hole in the arm.. trying to eliminate the roll of the truck.. may go back in on the tower some..

The truck feels great.. now.. something i been noticing..

I race Kyosho everything else.. and usually got things setup to be driven.. not thrown around the track..

with this truck.. it seemed, the harder i drove it.. the more it worked.. now.. me being tenative.. i didnt really like doing that.. i dont do much testing.. my testing.. is my qualis.. lol.. i just show up.. race.. try different things..

Everything i have done.. has had a positive effect..

Next week.. i should have the clutch basket on the truck.. with thicker front diff.. think i will go to the yellow spring in the rear to eliminate so much weight transfer.. got blues all the way around right now..

i want to try to get the truck to quit rolling so hard in the corners..

something else.. i didnt read this thread from friday around 5, till Monday at 230.. and i was 10 pages behind.. lol.. lot of good info on here..

anyone here currently running the Viper R/C stuff? If so, any recent opinions on it?

[QUOTE=CoyoteSlash;9822832]One page one it has a list. I use a 6030. 240 ounces. If you check page one. Lists of how stuff works in this rig is "usually" what most of us are using.



Thanks, guess I need to take a little time and look though all of this

That was some epic driving. Our trucks are so quick but equal, it made for insanely close racing. I am still stumped as to why my truck had that mystery issue with the rear not getting power and skipping, but tearing it down and putting it back together mysteriously fixed it. Thanks again on the tips about the quick rear trans removal, so much quicker then how I was doing it before.

The vids are not as epic. It is really bumpy and I was getting seasick while watching it. I did find that the footage my son had with the camera on the top of his truck was much better. I will wade through all of the video to pull out the highlights though. The most clear parts were the slow movement footage like pushing over flipped trucks.

If no rain I will be back out this Sunday.

Hope the mystery skipping doesn't come back.

I recommend the XP1015 our Savox 1258

i'm running hitec 7950 hv, i like it thus far.

Tried drilling through the shaft for the pin mod and broke the bit. I will have to go to my in laws to use his drill press. I did however charged up some packs to test some more changes I made and noticed something that I heard before but never paid attention to it until now. The first pass with the throttle the truck has power, then all the sudden it's gone. It still drives but it sounds like it's slipping. I did what Craig suggested by marking the slipper/plate with a marker because I lock mine down. Sure enough it slips like a mug. The power is gone and the motor heats up quick. I have locked it down to the point where I could snap the shaft. I am using the ht pads as well. What can I do for now to fix this. Take the spring out and fill it up with spacers or drill though the plates and bolt them together. This sucks big time. Anyone have any ideas.

Terry

EDIT: Checked temp on the slipper plate after 5 minutes of cool down and it was still over 140*F

Clutch Basket and or Garodisks.

so if I buy the clutch basket do you guys still do the pin mod?