5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-26-2011 | 05:44 AM
#9511
Like I stated. All of that list from my post is Fact from 6 months of running. I can seriously promise that I have no need for the basket. I can absolutely lock down my slipper. (i've used a sharpie and marked the plate and Spur using HD pads. It's locked, Standard slips just a little). I have no problem admitting I need something. Or spending the money. But I don't 'need' to. And frankly, neither does anyone else. The basket is just the easy mode fix with a pinned setup and allows alot 'alot' more tuning with a decoupled slipper. I can only say my suggestion, experience, and opinion. But I will never purchase a Basket, AE, or MTK. He did us one hell of a service. But I don't need it. I spent 39 cents on a teflon 1mm spacer at Home Depot instead of 35 bucks.
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I'm not trying to argue about this slipper issue. But I did this spacer modification and while the pads were new it was great but half way through a race day it lost its steem. Its very easy to notice when your weekly club race has numerous sponsored drivers racing. and you start falling off pace. I went months as well with a spacer before mac started making the baskets. All that dust in your belt tunnel is slipper pad dust. No matter how hard you tighten the 2 pads it will slip. the basket works because it is adding a friction surface. and still can slip to the desired amount and grip at the same time for this heavy truck. your candy coating the slipper issue by having a redonkulous motor in there and it will still do what you want because that motor is going to make anything move(while spinning). if it works for you then great but understand that it didn't work for ALOT of us so it is not the cheapest solution. I see it as adding 40 cents to my 35$ basket purchase and not to mention the time lost.
If you read back through this thread the spacer mod was done by everyone back at that time. but everyone ended up with a basket.. even the AE guys.
and i'm sure they know what they are doing.
10-26-2011 | 06:31 AM
#9512
you are going to be running the novak havoc pro sc and the 4.5 550 right ? if you are make sure on the drive frequency you turn it all the way up so it has the smoothest power band (that will help keep temps down and make it so you can drive the truck harder. i used to run that system and for a 7 minute race i was pulling my truck off at 120-140 degrees with an outside temp of 90 degrees. and eighty percent humidity . now i run the tekin RX8 and the pro4 4000 540 i like it way better i can tweak it out to better suite my driving style.
10-26-2011 | 06:34 AM
#9513
sorry didn't see the question about the diffs 30 k is going to make the truck push really hard i would try the 10 k in the front and 7k in the rear the truck will be better balanced out of the corner
10-26-2011 | 06:42 AM
#9514
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
but now im pretty noob and when u say " drive frequency " ???
im running it almost std. setup i put the revers on so i can back out off a cras and turn off drag break thats it.
10-26-2011 | 07:00 AM
#9515
the higher the drive frequency the smoother and the cooler the motor will run . i have attached the track setup guide look at it and read all of it and understand it before you make adjustments ...and what ever you do . do not move the timing on the end bell leave right where it is .
10-26-2011 | 07:33 AM
#9516
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
the higher the drive frequency the smoother and the cooler the motor will run . i have attached the track setup guide look at it and read all of it and understand it before you make adjustments ...and what ever you do . do not move the timing on the end bell leave right where it is .
10-26-2011 | 07:47 AM
#9517
low setting would be great for a stock type class ie... 17.5 gives more punch off the line has a lot more power usage ... the higher the setting less power usage resulting in cooler running temps thus makes it way easier to drive hard
10-26-2011 | 07:49 AM
#9518
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
10-26-2011 | 07:57 AM
#9519
10-26-2011 | 08:44 AM
#9520
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I totally see what you mean now. Ya since I already drilled the shaft it is to late. But another I can still try on a spare shaft. Thanks for clearing this up. I do believe most people don't realize the washer goes behind the first plate but yet in front like how I had it. This may help others out there that can't afford the basket.
Also I wanted to know much tension does everyone have on there belt. I read some say loose while others a little tight. The way I check is rolling the truck on the ground. If it goes at least 5 feet with a slight push I call it good. It's hard to tell if there's to much or not enough. This to me could create a ton of drag which would affect the motor, esc, and batteries.
Also I wanted to know much tension does everyone have on there belt. I read some say loose while others a little tight. The way I check is rolling the truck on the ground. If it goes at least 5 feet with a slight push I call it good. It's hard to tell if there's to much or not enough. This to me could create a ton of drag which would affect the motor, esc, and batteries.
10-26-2011 | 08:51 AM
#9521
I just want to say that "pulling a wheelie" with the stock pads doesnt really mean that they work, the stock and HD pads are both hit or miss and not consistent and its simply because of the material. The garodisc are more consistent and provide more grip when needed. anyone that owns them will tell you that if you make the stock pads slip anywhere past 3' feet they will not make the end of a qualifier. the garodisc can slip 5' and still provide more grip while they are slipping than the HD pads. we all know you can tighten the stock pads down enough to work but having smooth power delivery is the key. 2 discs are 17.00 and will never wear out, Sym has had the same set on his truck for 2 months now with no maintence or re adjusting, i havent touched mine in weeks. with the pin mod on anything except high bite clay you only need two.
10-26-2011 | 08:54 AM
#9522
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
you are going to be running the novak havoc pro sc and the 4.5 550 right ? if you are make sure on the drive frequency you turn it all the way up so it has the smoothest power band (that will help keep temps down and make it so you can drive the truck harder. i used to run that system and for a 7 minute race i was pulling my truck off at 120-140 degrees with an outside temp of 90 degrees. and eighty percent humidity . now i run the tekin RX8 and the pro4 4000 540 i like it way better i can tweak it out to better suite my driving style.
10-26-2011 | 08:58 AM
#9523
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Tuning tips
Do you guys have any tips for finding problems and tuning them?
For example, do you focus on one corner and try to take it a certain way or is it more of just a "gut" feeling?
I tend to adapt my driving to whatever the truck is doing and don't seem to notice where things could be better. Unless I happened to pick the perfect setup right out of the gate
For example, do you focus on one corner and try to take it a certain way or is it more of just a "gut" feeling?
I tend to adapt my driving to whatever the truck is doing and don't seem to notice where things could be better. Unless I happened to pick the perfect setup right out of the gate
10-26-2011 | 09:09 AM
#9525
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,480
From: Las Vegas, NV
I posted this up twice before and it must have gotten lost in the shuffle. I spoke to Chris at AE and he said to loosen the front and rear tensioners. Im running pretty loose and it happened again! The front Pulley and Flange are locked up tight into the front gearbox! Any help would be appreciated!
Sal
Hey guys, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out why The front Flange and Pulley would lock up to the front trans case! I tightened down the Clicker until it stopped clicking like in the video on AE's site. Pulled throttle and the car went about 30 feet and then the rear wheels wouldn't turn and the front was locked up solid. I couldn't move the belt when I opened the covers. Seems the front flange and pulley had gotten stuck to the trans case! pulled it apart, put it back together and it did it again after a very short burst of throttle. There is no binding anywhere else it the drivetrain. I made sure the screws in the trans case weren't hitting the flange too. This morning I ran the truck and I had no noise from the clicker when I rolled it like in the video. After the 25 minute run I did the same thing and now it was clicking! Im afraid to make the nut too tight so as to make it lock up the front trans again. Hope someone can give me some insight on this.
Sal
Hey guys, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out why The front Flange and Pulley would lock up to the front trans case! I tightened down the Clicker until it stopped clicking like in the video on AE's site. Pulled throttle and the car went about 30 feet and then the rear wheels wouldn't turn and the front was locked up solid. I couldn't move the belt when I opened the covers. Seems the front flange and pulley had gotten stuck to the trans case! pulled it apart, put it back together and it did it again after a very short burst of throttle. There is no binding anywhere else it the drivetrain. I made sure the screws in the trans case weren't hitting the flange too. This morning I ran the truck and I had no noise from the clicker when I rolled it like in the video. After the 25 minute run I did the same thing and now it was clicking! Im afraid to make the nut too tight so as to make it lock up the front trans again. Hope someone can give me some insight on this.
Another thing to check is the 3 screws that go through the transmission case. There is two short ones and one long. If you put the screws in the wrong spots it can cause binding. Make sure that the long one is going through the hole that also connects the chassis brace to the case. I know you said you checked that they weren't hitting the flange, but just double check that you used the right screws in the right places!