Flange was melted to the cover. I have a spare cover but waiting for the pulleys. Bolts in the trans were not sticking through the belt cover...I had read here about that maybe being an issue. This thread is a wealth of knowledge thanks to all that have posted. No play on the top shaft and no lawn darting. Is it possible I cranked down the clicker too far?

Thanks again to all who answered. Pics not an option at the moment so I hope the description will do.

Sal

The flange was completely shredded up inside the the pulley too! I think that Chris Jaroz was right and that the belt tension was way too tight. Thanks again for the responses!

Sal

just compare your new parts with the old parts before assembly.
Also it should spin freely without the belt attached.

it might even come down to a bad shaft.

Hope its a simple fix. Shame to say, but its the first kit I have assembled in 15+ years. Fun.....once I can get it to work...lol.

Thanks again for all the help. Waiting for parts so time will tell. Will post up pics as soon as I can.

Sal

The front shim worked to some little extent. I did that at first. It only works well enough for the truck to move forward. You place that shim behind the pulley and rear plate, up against the Thrust Bearing then install the slipper assembly as normal. If you pinned the slipper already you might be SoL because you have to adjust for that 1mm addition. NO you did not waste 35 bucks. That basket is a great upgrade and a good way to go. I'm just trying to say that you don't "need" to go with a basket for a desired effect. I truly believe that.

Like I stated. All of that list from my post is Fact from 6 months of running. I can seriously promise that I have no need for the basket. I can absolutely lock down my slipper. (i've used a sharpie and marked the plate and Spur using HD pads. It's locked, Standard slips just a little). I have no problem admitting I need something. Or spending the money. But I don't 'need' to. And frankly, neither does anyone else. The basket is just the easy mode fix with a pinned setup and allows alot 'alot' more tuning with a decoupled slipper. I can only say my suggestion, experience, and opinion. But I will never purchase a Basket, AE, or MTK. He did us one hell of a service. But I don't need it. I spent 39 cents on a teflon 1mm spacer at Home Depot instead of 35 bucks.

The shafts are TiNi, yes. The eyes are aluminum, and the bodies are 'not' just colored differently. They are hard Anodized and smoother. They 'are' an upgrade.

~Edited to reword some things.

Oh, I see now. Even tho it is pinned I may still try it. i would like to know for my sakes if the shim behind the plate would have helped. Why exactly does this go behind the plate. The nut in the front seems to squish the plates together tight enough or am I missing something. But ya, the basket in the long run will be the ticket. 35$ bucks isn't going to break the bank. I just feel the same as you and think the other solutions could/would have worked. Thanks

Terry

Okay, so I wasted an idler today. A front one.



See the two marks?

It's important to make sure you put the right screws back in this truck where they claim they go. In this case, the ones that held the shocktower. The screws were 4mm too long, and, well, whoops. Good thing I ordered extras.

Does anyone know what the sway bar color code equates to in size?

You have a Bare top shaft. Then that collared spacer goes on. Then the bearing. *teflon deal with ball bearings inside* Then the metal washer.

At that point. you add one more washer. That's it. I'd show a pic, but I JUST put my truck back together 20 minutes ago. =D

Edit: $^$# It. I'll take a picture to show all of this. For you guys who are having trouble and are hesitant on more money.

I think it goes like this:
White=1.8mm
Blue=2.0mm
Yellow=2.2mm

I totally see what you mean now. Ya since I already drilled the shaft it is to late. But another I can still try on a spare shaft. Thanks for clearing this up. I do believe most people don't realize the washer goes behind the first plate but yet in front like how I had it. This may help others out there that can't afford the basket.


Also I wanted to know much tension does everyone have on there belt. I read some say loose while others a little tight. The way I check is rolling the truck on the ground. If it goes at least 5 feet with a slight push I call it good. It's hard to tell if there's to much or not enough. This to me could create a ton of drag which would affect the motor, esc, and batteries.

Okay.

This is about where I run my slipper on a normal Fun day. 1mm off flush. I'm protecting my idler this way. (remember, I've gone through 2) This slips pretty good. And what I mean by that is it protects the gears and gives me enough power to do anything I want minus a wheelie. It warms the housing. (before the spacer, it used to be hotter than the motor damn near) Pointing out it's only 1mm from flush. I have days of travel left to lock it down as I stated previously for the wheelie idler blowing action.


This is my Slipper assembly. Those pads are my original pads mind you. The dust from the belt housing gets all over them and makes it look bad. Wipe them down and a little sandpaper and they're good as new.


This is my Thrust bearing.
1: The collared piece
2: Bearing
3: Steel washer
4: The additional teflon washer


That washer turned my truck into a wheeler producer. No belt rub from moving the pulley forward. I'm on the original Belt. Etc.

I loved my truck when I put that spacer on it. Then I fell farther in love when I pinned the truck. There ya go. So ya know.

Ran my SC10 4x4 on Sunday, I love this truck, heaps of steering and rear grip, the power that comes from the Tekin RX8 and 4600kv Pro4 motor is mind blowing, Esc temp 119f and motor 124f geared 13/64.
Ran the MTK clutch basket with the garodiscs, what a combination they are, all I say is if your not running them do so
Just fitted the RcShox stage 2 pistons and the RPM front/rear arms, very interested on how they will back this beast handle.

You need the basket more than a fat kid needs cake. The fact you can build enough heat in the slipper pad to discolor it that bad, man....no bueno.

With it pinned, they should all look the same when you disassemble it. I don't think any debris did that to that pad (only heat) because it is super hard to get any dirt in there with it clamped down. IMO that's heat. And if it warms the housing, it's too hot. IMO.

I have the vented slipper. It has holes. The back pad is clean, as you can see. When I locked down the slipper, there were little dots on the pads.


Oh, and yes.


...I do need Cake.

Edit: Oh and btw. Those pads like I said are from 3 months of pre-pinned meyhem.

That's why I assembled the shaft and took a picture of it, THEN drilled the hole.

Dunno what post it's in, but it's there.