Because the car on the ground is going slower to over the obsticle than the one who simply jumped it. Watch James Stewart here, and then watch the guy behind him. Sorry, the forum won't let me link the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=ziL1j-l799k

Not to mention if you are the guy going double-double and the guy behind you is going fast enough to triple-single, or worse, go quad. Get well soon Trey Canard.

+ YouTube Video

just spent some time doing the front diff and installing the rpm arms up front,glad i checked that diff,it was empty....

I had the same thing, as did my buddy. I use a pair of hook-nose pliers to hold it. I feel they hold better than the tiny tips of needle-nose pliers.


The first time you assemble the slipper/center diff with a new spring, you should pre-compress the spring with some pliers. It will help the spring find it's natural shape, and make it a little easier to get everything started. Once the assembly is all on the truck, and the nut is started, I hold the spur gear and don't really have any issues getting it to tighten down.

Oh, and if you're not running a clutch basket, you might want to put a couple of 1/4" washers between the spring and the slipper plate. If you don't, your nut will bottom out on the threads and the part of the shaft that flares out before your spring is fully compressed. Go into your local hardware store and pick up a few...they're like $0.10 each, and you can also use them between your body and the body clips to distribute the stress and help prevent your body from tearing through a body-clip.

I'll see if I can find the link that was posted a while back....maybe by Symmetricon? Someone showed how you can get at the diffs in about 7 steps and 12 screws. Certainly not the easiest truck to work on, but not as bad as a lot of people make it out to be, especially once you've done it a few times.

Yup. I ream the body out around the bumper to give it a little more clearance. If you don't, you'll end up tearing it the first time you land upside down.

Many "race" bodies are thin, especially when you start pulling the lexan into the large SC body shapes. The same thickness of lexan pulled into a buggy body will remain thicker than one pulled into a big SC body. For practice and club racing, I actually run a slash body with modified mounting holes, because I know it will hold up much better than any of the racing bodies. For big events, I'll still run a Flo-Tek or Hi-Flow body.

If you've got the 4.5T motor, 14/62 will probably do you well. If you have the 5.5T motor, you'll likely want to run 16/62. I ran 16/62 most of last year with a 5.5T Tekin and that was pretty much the sweet spot. (LRP's 5.5T is 3700kv, Tekin's is 4000kv, so you might even want to go 16/60 or 16/58) The track I run on sounds similar to yours.

I know, the search function leaves something to be desired.

Yup, I think that was changed in the 2nd or 3rd batch of trucks going out. The original shipment had the diffs prebuilt with 3000/3000 and it was virtually undriveable like that.

Looking in to buying this truck but want to buy used. My question is if I would be able to make this truck the same as the ft truck that's coming out? Or is the new ft truck completely different ? Thanx.

Here's where I buy mine: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Size-Fits-Most

i really prefer the 2wd SC class at basher's, i think it is more fun than 4wd much of the time. 4wd SC is usually not as big of a class either. the layouts are so technical that you really learn throttle control with 2wd. speaking of which, there should probably be a new layout coming sometime soon....

The FT truck should be called the RT (rc tech) truck. The added all of the things that popped up on this thread. Well, except for the shock bodies, Ti turnbuckles, and aluminum screws and hexes.

iam getting a 3800 kv motor and use my mmp esc.

I have been reading this hole thread and it's awesome.I have my sc10 4x4 for sale though because there isn't a big enough class at my local track. I'm asking $220 OR BEST OFFER paypal. If any one wants pics or has questions PM me. If you want pics make sure you send your email adress to.

Thanks,
Dan

i agree that some of the guys on this thread have come up with and made some great improvements on this truck as i have purchased some of them and i tip my hat to them for their ingenuity ....

Has anyone seen one in person? How does one go about running 4 friction pads?

That must be why they have a new outer slipper plate that's recessed for the spring. unfortunately for me, my local AE hotshot is in onroad mode, not offroad.

At 80bajillion pages and many random posts, the only thing not mentioned in this thread is the mating habits of the elusive Himalayan tree beagle. Now that I have officially mentioned that, I think we're done.

The lower sides are thin, but I have yet to rip one there when running (5 factory bodies over 4 trucks). In fact, if you nuke it there, you should be running double bodies stuck together with RTV The 4x4 is faster and much heavier than the 2wd and will beat the body a bit more, but the factory body isn't bad. Nice and light, not a lot of weight up top.

Um....they don't say anywhere that they are running 4 friction pads....they say "4 drive surfaces"....that's the same thing as the MTK clutch basket....the VTS4 just looks like the basket that holds everything together has slightly thinner outer walls and made of plastic...if I ever upgrade to a clutch basket, it will be the MTK basket....it looks like it will take more abuse, and if I somehow DO heat things up too much, it isn't going to turn into a puddle of goo....