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Old 02-07-2012 | 09:14 PM
  #16996  
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Originally Posted by Msc111
Looking in to buying this truck but want to buy used. My question is if I would be able to make this truck the same as the ft truck that's coming out? Or is the new ft truck completely different ? Thanx.
Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
The FT truck should be called the RT (rc tech) truck. The added all of the things that popped up on this thread. Well, except for the shock bodies, Ti turnbuckles, and aluminum screws and hexes.
What Mac means is: "yes"

But for the price of all the upgrades seperately, you'll save money buying the FT kit if you don't already own a truck. The shocks, sways, basket and brace alone are worth nearly $200....the screws and turnbuckles and battery strap are another $100....Who knows how much AE will charge for their Ackerman plate..... If you really want to make a truck into the FT version, just get the FT version once it is available....
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Old 02-07-2012 | 09:18 PM
  #16997  
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Chad, you may have to go to 1.3 pistons for rough stuff. I actually ran my 1.1s drilled to 1.4 for choppy surfaces. Now I run Mantisworx 2 stage pistons. This is a very worthy upgrade.

Marcus, when I had the center diff in my truck, I noticed that the front and rear would not stop together. I shimmed the hub out, and tightened my spring tight enough to bend the topshaft. I had to give up on the diff for now. I was not getting the drive on the small high traction indoor tracks we run on here in the frigid midwest. Maybe I need even more shims??
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Old 02-07-2012 | 09:28 PM
  #16998  
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well I guess I did loctite my piston screw, but the damn head snapped off

Not sure how I can ez-out a screw that small, so looks like I got to buy a new TiNitride shaft.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 10:00 PM
  #16999  
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Those of you with Exotek chassis', are you adding more weight still? If so where and how much?

Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 10:07 PM
  #17000  
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awesome, thank you for your replys. Im looking at finding a used one that has majority of the upgrades. If not i will just wait for the factory. Almost wanted to go with a losi bc of all the stuff i have read about the associated ( hard to work on, dosent handle like the losi) but i just cant bring my slef to buying a losi.


Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
What Mac means is: "yes"

But for the price of all the upgrades seperately, you'll save money buying the FT kit if you don't already own a truck. The shocks, sways, basket and brace alone are worth nearly $200....the screws and turnbuckles and battery strap are another $100....Who knows how much AE will charge for their Ackerman plate..... If you really want to make a truck into the FT version, just get the FT version once it is available....
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Old 02-07-2012 | 10:20 PM
  #17001  
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Originally Posted by Arakon
The shock towers are supposed to hold the hex-shaped part of the shock mounts and prevent a turning of the mount when installing the lock nuts on either side. All four of them ended up spinning freely because the plastic was too weak to hold the hex. Any known fixes? I had to claw down on them with needle nose pliers to be able to tighten the nuts.
Course it's not strong enough. Why did you let yourself do it to 'all four'?

use the 5.5 Nut and thread it to the end, and counter turn as you tighten the other one. When you're torquing down on it, it's got to go somewhere. The locking style of that plastic is so that when you remove the 5.5 nut that holds the shock on won't spin, it's not for the 7mm nut.

Originally Posted by Arakon
I hard a really hard time tightening the slipper nut.. is there anywhere to stick an allen key or something to block it from turning the top shaft? I ended up having to crush the slipper together in order to tighten the nut without spinning.
I held the standard little P.o.s. one and rolled the truck, but if your slipper is correct, you're not going to hulk it.

Originally Posted by Arakon
Is it just me overlooking something, or is the only way to access the diffs to basically disassemble most of the truck?
If you read the thread, you'll find a Diff removal Guide.

Originally Posted by Arakon
Is it normal for the body to (almost) rest on the rear bumper? A big "boo" towards Team Associated for that body, btw.. I've never seen one that thin before, along the sides I just cut clean through the lexan with a scalpel when I was just scoring the surface without much pressure.
The body holds up awesome. Don't boo it before you oose it, bro.

Originally Posted by Arakon
Edit: I just noticed that in the current manual (downloadable from the AE page), in the section for the diff assembly, it says 20000 front, 5000 rear? Did they change it from 3000/3000?
Read the thread man. Use the search option, your world will be enlightened. Yes, We run 5k rear, 30k front majority, some run even higher.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 10:45 PM
  #17002  
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I was just checking out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkYpTkCTNk0

Looks like Maifield and Cav have their SC10's flying pretty clean over that triple. Granted it's no 30' jump, but it's a pretty good sized jump. I wonder if they're doing anything special setup wise or with weights to keep it that level.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 11:01 PM
  #17003  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
I was just checking out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkYpTkCTNk0

Looks like Maifield and Cav have their SC10's flying pretty clean over that triple. Granted it's no 30' jump, but it's a pretty good sized jump. I wonder if they're doing anything special setup wise or with weights to keep it that level.
In no way whatsoever am I claiming my own personal skill, but I would have no problem hitting that triple in my Po'dunk tuned Ride.

I think that 30' that we're talking about shoots you up so vertical into the air that you can't correct at that point. That jump is shooting them pretty level, imo

My jumps, I can LAUNCH mine and slam the brake and get about a 30degree change in mine, but at a certain point, I noticed as Mantis was saying, I cannot get anymore, and that 30degrees would not be enough with that big triple.

That's a good looking track though! I'd be stoked to drive it!
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Old 02-07-2012 | 11:08 PM
  #17004  
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Yeah I'd hope not too. Mine just seems to nose over.

We'll see once I finish rebuilding it and put a fresh lid on it.

YouTube has me wanting to travel to some races. :P
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Old 02-07-2012 | 11:10 PM
  #17005  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Has anyone seen one in person? How does one go about running 4 friction pads?
not four pads. it says "4 surfaces" which is what you get with the mtk basket

edit, blueglowboy already said it...whoops
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Old 02-07-2012 | 11:11 PM
  #17006  
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Oh BTW, I stumbled on a video of that track I told you I checked out up in Marysville, showed up when I was looking at SC10 vids racing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mLgxoWznm8

It looked like a fun track to me, big, a little loose on top. Real racin'.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 01:10 AM
  #17007  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Has anyone seen one in person? How does one go about running 4 friction pads?
You can get a better view of the new VTS4 slipper with the new Team Edition instruction manual on www.rc10.com...



All finished with Scott's Sc10 4x4 ride , man it turn out sweet .....

One of my better masterpieces.....

This ride will see some tuff competition against really fast team drivers ....


They , Scott & my other Ae teammates all get to go to Denver for the Rumble in the Rocky's this week end .

Not me , I get to no go ....
next year for sure ...

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 02-08-2012 at 01:49 AM.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 01:56 AM
  #17008  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
I was just checking out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkYpTkCTNk0

Looks like Maifield and Cav have their SC10's flying pretty clean over that triple. Granted it's no 30' jump, but it's a pretty good sized jump. I wonder if they're doing anything special setup wise or with weights to keep it that level.


Proof !

Truck jumps just fine and the driver always makes the biggest difference...

No need for reverse counter gear yadda, lots of cheese is really what you need.

Practice like a track rat with the team set-up and you can learn how to clear & land jumps like the professionals...

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 02-08-2012 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 02:12 AM
  #17009  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Proof !

truck jumps just fine and the driver always makes the biggest difference

no need for reverse counter gear yadda, lots of cheese is really what you need.

practice like a track rat with the team set-up and you can learn how to clear & land jumps like the professionals...
...

Seriously...?


You really are... Forget you.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 02:32 AM
  #17010  
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Saw steven hartson run the new truck at the JConcepts Winter Indoor Nationals at SmacTrac this weekend. It looked really good. The chassis brace is huge! Steven took 2nd to Josh Wheeler, a local Xray driver running the new Xray SC truck prototype. I was 5th overall, and managed to pull a 3rd place finish in A3 only 10 seconds back from wheeler and hartson. My non FT truck with my own mods seemed to stand up well to the new truck
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