SC10 4x4 Thread
You need to limit te uptravel of the shocks with the gray clips. The shocks have entirely too much up travel. If they compress too much, they bund up in the out drives causing the to bend, and possibly damaging the diff bushing that the outdrives go out of. I have 4-5 mm of clips to limit the shock. Hope this helps.

Speaking of cactus, I plan on taking a week or so of leave to go and race at cactus. I'm just gonna run JC chassis sheet's. I'm from Tucson originally and used to go every year since 2000. Haven't been to the cactus since I joined the Army. Seeing that I'm so close, I cant really miss it.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 9
From: Portland, Tx
Chris L
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,076
From: SoCal - Chillin in the LBC
Hey All! Been out of the loop for quite some time as I had to pack up and move to a new address. I'm way behind on what has been going on and haven't raced in like 2+ months... Hoping to get some set-up recommendations... I have the following to finally install together:
Mac the Knife Clutch Basket
Garodisks
Pinned Shaft
My question is, what combo do I use for the MTK Clutch Basket & a Pinned Shaft (Garodisks, HD Pads, Stock Pads) for out door 1/8th Scale type Tracks with rather big jumps to clear? When its hot out the tracks gets dry and dusty... achieving good grip is tough. When it rains during the week and we get a break from the weather its loamy and traction is quite good. Any suggestions, tips or recommendations? I certainly would appreciate some feedback...
Thanks Guys!
Mac the Knife Clutch Basket
Garodisks
Pinned Shaft
My question is, what combo do I use for the MTK Clutch Basket & a Pinned Shaft (Garodisks, HD Pads, Stock Pads) for out door 1/8th Scale type Tracks with rather big jumps to clear? When its hot out the tracks gets dry and dusty... achieving good grip is tough. When it rains during the week and we get a break from the weather its loamy and traction is quite good. Any suggestions, tips or recommendations? I certainly would appreciate some feedback...
Thanks Guys!

Dont pin the shaft with the basket. Do one or the other. Pin shaft works best for the large loose tracks, as it locks the pulley going to the front so the slipper on the inside of the slipper does nothing.
However if you have garodisks with the basket there is more grip than any AE and will allow the slipper to work as intended.
I would just run the basket with the garodisks, you wont have a problem.
For a base setup go to AE's website and pick a pro setup that best suits your track and go from there. Shim up your upper link ball studs on the tower, 5mm in front and maybe 2mm in the rear. If the rear is loose try to lengthen the rear upper link, it will make the rear of the truck "dead or lazy" and calm it down.
However if you have garodisks with the basket there is more grip than any AE and will allow the slipper to work as intended.
I would just run the basket with the garodisks, you wont have a problem.
For a base setup go to AE's website and pick a pro setup that best suits your track and go from there. Shim up your upper link ball studs on the tower, 5mm in front and maybe 2mm in the rear. If the rear is loose try to lengthen the rear upper link, it will make the rear of the truck "dead or lazy" and calm it down.
I ran the MTK basket and pinned loved it for my driving style and track. I also had my front clicker locked down full 4x4. Front diff filled with 20k & rear with 7k. Truck could driven more agressively with no fear of excessive slipping. I think you'll see a huge difference. Now I run rcshox center diff and it's a whole new world. But if it weren't for that I would have stayed basket and pinned.
Thanks for the quick reply Guys...
Actually, I too was under the impression that the Pinned Shaft would work with the MTK Clutch Basket?
At least that is what I remember people on here running a few month back... Could MTK also chime in on this?A few things I forgot to ask... seems like from the last few pages I have read... people have gone down with their diff oil in the front... 30K was the Front Diff Oil set-up from what I remember? Is this still used for big outdoor tracks and the low Diff Oils are for carpet racing? Thanks for the 20K tip jamr1130!
Also, are either of the Underdrive or Overdrive pulleys recommended with the Pinned Shaft & Clutch Basket combo? Any suggestions on tension?Sorry for all the questions... doing an extensive rebuild and want to get as much right as possible before finally hitting the track after a long hiatus.
Thanks once again for any assistance anyone can share!
You got it. With this amount of of up-travel limit, the chassis still can bottom out. Oh, and no shock boots.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 11
Hi Guys
I have a strange problem and as I am racing on tarmac/aphalt as my clubs offroad race track is being worked on for the summer season it does not seem easy to find information!
My truck does suffer with a loose rear but it gets better after 1-2 minutes of racing (probably as the tyres have more temperature), when I get around 6 minutes into a race the rear end will get very loose on sweepers and 360 or flip on tight corners
If you could try and offer some advice I would really appreciate it as leading and winning all 5 minute qualifers is great but a 7 minute final gets fustrating when after 6 minutes your can will spin out 2-3 times per lap
Here is my current setup that is all geared towards getting rear traction but may be causing some of the problem
Camber Front 0, Rear 2
Toe Front 0, Rear 3+2 Block
Shocks Front Yellow/35, Rear Blue/30, No rebound No limiting
Diff Fluid 30K/7K
Slipper MTK Basket 3 x HD pads, nut flush
Clicker Locked
Tyres Front Enduro, Rear Caliber
Ride Height Front 20, Rear 15
Swaybars 2mm Front & Rear
ESC/Motor Castle MMP, 3800
My thoughts after today were to limit shock travel in both directions, stiffen rear springs, tighten the slipper more or get the finals shortened to 5 minutes
Keep up the good work and thanks again
I have a strange problem and as I am racing on tarmac/aphalt as my clubs offroad race track is being worked on for the summer season it does not seem easy to find information!
My truck does suffer with a loose rear but it gets better after 1-2 minutes of racing (probably as the tyres have more temperature), when I get around 6 minutes into a race the rear end will get very loose on sweepers and 360 or flip on tight corners

If you could try and offer some advice I would really appreciate it as leading and winning all 5 minute qualifers is great but a 7 minute final gets fustrating when after 6 minutes your can will spin out 2-3 times per lap

Here is my current setup that is all geared towards getting rear traction but may be causing some of the problem

Camber Front 0, Rear 2
Toe Front 0, Rear 3+2 Block
Shocks Front Yellow/35, Rear Blue/30, No rebound No limiting
Diff Fluid 30K/7K
Slipper MTK Basket 3 x HD pads, nut flush
Clicker Locked
Tyres Front Enduro, Rear Caliber
Ride Height Front 20, Rear 15
Swaybars 2mm Front & Rear
ESC/Motor Castle MMP, 3800
My thoughts after today were to limit shock travel in both directions, stiffen rear springs, tighten the slipper more or get the finals shortened to 5 minutes

Keep up the good work and thanks again
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 123
From: White Salmon, WA
I have my truck apart right now waiting on a new idler gear...so great time to change out the diff fluids. All I have available is 5k, 7k, and 30k. I will be adding the MTK basket upon rebuilding for this Tuesday night's race. I have been running 30k front, 7k rear and have had a persistent understeer that keeps me from diving into the turns. I have been approaching the problem with springs, bars, and shims under the ballstuds. Its getting better for sure. So here is my question:
-Using my available diff fluids, what should I mix to get more of a 15-20k front? I was just going to go 50/50 with the 30k and the 5k and see what happens.
This is an indoor clay tight track (PRCR).Thanks!
-Using my available diff fluids, what should I mix to get more of a 15-20k front? I was just going to go 50/50 with the 30k and the 5k and see what happens.
This is an indoor clay tight track (PRCR).Thanks!
Hi Guys
I have a strange problem and as I am racing on tarmac/asphalt as my clubs off road race track is being worked on for the summer season it does not seem easy to find information!
My truck does suffer with a loose rear but it gets better after 1-2 minutes of racing (probably as the tyres have more temperature), when I get around 6 minutes into a race the rear end will get very loose on sweepers and 360 or flip on tight corners
If you could try and offer some advice I would really appreciate it as leading and winning all 5 minute qualifiers is great but a 7 minute final gets frustrated when after 6 minutes your can will spin out 2-3 times per lap
Here is my current setup that is all geared towards getting rear traction but may be causing some of the problem
Camber Front 0, Rear 2
Toe Front 0, Rear 3+2 Block
Shocks Front Yellow/35, Rear Blue/30, No rebound No limiting
Diff Fluid 30K/7K
Slipper MTK Basket 3 x HD pads, nut flush
Clicker Locked
Tyres Front Enduro, Rear Caliber
Ride Height Front 20, Rear 15
Sway Bars 2mm Front & Rear
ESC/Motor Castle MMP, 3800
My thoughts after today were to limit shock travel in both directions, stiffen rear springs, tighten the slipper more or get the finals shortened to 5 minutes
Keep up the good work and thanks again
I have a strange problem and as I am racing on tarmac/asphalt as my clubs off road race track is being worked on for the summer season it does not seem easy to find information!
My truck does suffer with a loose rear but it gets better after 1-2 minutes of racing (probably as the tyres have more temperature), when I get around 6 minutes into a race the rear end will get very loose on sweepers and 360 or flip on tight corners

If you could try and offer some advice I would really appreciate it as leading and winning all 5 minute qualifiers is great but a 7 minute final gets frustrated when after 6 minutes your can will spin out 2-3 times per lap

Here is my current setup that is all geared towards getting rear traction but may be causing some of the problem

Camber Front 0, Rear 2
Toe Front 0, Rear 3+2 Block
Shocks Front Yellow/35, Rear Blue/30, No rebound No limiting
Diff Fluid 30K/7K
Slipper MTK Basket 3 x HD pads, nut flush
Clicker Locked
Tyres Front Enduro, Rear Caliber
Ride Height Front 20, Rear 15
Sway Bars 2mm Front & Rear
ESC/Motor Castle MMP, 3800
My thoughts after today were to limit shock travel in both directions, stiffen rear springs, tighten the slipper more or get the finals shortened to 5 minutes

Keep up the good work and thanks again




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