link ty

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBNWS&P=ML

Ok, I am running 10k in the front diff and 5k in the rear right now. So I guess I should leave it alone and see how it runs. Are you running the basket?

Yeah, basket and triple garodisc. I have it pretty tight, I don't like it to slip much. Clicker is locked down and glued.

My truck is doing as best as I can make it do. What I was trying to add to the information being passed about was that the change to the motor and speed controller added a huge amount of braking power (I am dialed back to 80% brakes) but it seems that the motor is the main reason for it, not the controller, according to posts made after mine.

I am running on an indoor carpet track that does not have jumps anywhere NEAR the size of the monster posted in the video. That's insane. What I am not understanding clearly, however, is why a car in the air can pass a car that has contact with the ground for forward speed. Once a car is in the air, it is slowing down. That is physics and it cannot be changed. A car that is in contact with the ground is either accellerating (high pinion ratio) or maintaining speed over the same area. On the small jumps (compared to a 1/8th track) that we have on our track (60x90), I have jumped short and out-paced the airborne cars to the next tabletop (advice from some very fast racers in the club). Having not seen the cars discussed run on the same track as those 1/8th nitro buggies, I am not able to fully see how the two seconds have been lost to the flying Losi 4x4's.

Yes, I am really new to track racing and RC trucks and cars.

Don

I am new to this and have not noticed the drop-off in speed as out track is not like a large 1/8th scale by any stretch of the imagination. The only triple on out track is very easy to over-jump with the current setup but I can easily change up to a 15T that is in my spares kit. If I see some improvement in handling, I can pick up and try a 16T in a heartbeat. The longest straight away is about 45 ft. currently. Thanks for the tip.

Don

Hey guys. I just got a SC10 4x4 today, and built it during the day. A few things I had trouble with and wanted to ask about:

The shock towers are supposed to hold the hex-shaped part of the shock mounts and prevent a turning of the mount when installing the lock nuts on either side. All four of them ended up spinning freely because the plastic was too weak to hold the hex. Any known fixes? I had to claw down on them with needle nose pliers to be able to tighten the nuts.

I hard a really hard time tightening the slipper nut.. is there anywhere to stick an allen key or something to block it from turning the top shaft? I ended up having to crush the slipper together in order to tighten the nut without spinning.

Is it just me overlooking something, or is the only way to access the diffs to basically disassemble most of the truck?

Is it normal for the body to (almost) rest on the rear bumper? A big "boo" towards Team Associated for that body, btw.. I've never seen one that thin before, along the sides I just cut clean through the lexan with a scalpel when I was just scoring the surface without much pressure.

I know a bunch of people here run the LRP X12L, what is your gearing? I can't test the truck at the track yet (won't open for a month or two yet), but it's a track with a bunch of tight turns, a long straight, and a triple jump. I usually run 20-25 minutes per battery with my slash 4x4 there. I currently have it set up at 14/62, but want to order another pinion if that is considered too high.

Thanks for any answers, I know some of it is probably already answered somewhere in the thread, but the search function only gets me so far.

Edit: I just noticed that in the current manual (downloadable from the AE page), in the section for the diff assembly, it says 20000 front, 5000 rear? Did they change it from 3000/3000?

I did see the video and as I said above, that track is insane. I would have loved to see video from the actual race series you were in, to see how the time was gained by making that particular triple vs. short jumping it and accelerating through it. Not seeing the entire surface does not help me understand the dynamics of the triple compared to a double/single or single double of the same jump. Take care.

Don

Ok thanks for the help Jeff.

That link is not your wishlist, you have to be logged in to your account to view it form that link. Go to make list public and post the link it gives you.

Thanks! I should have checked it before I posted. See if this works..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/wish_list.php

what springs and Swaybar are you useing?

Nope. Try setting it to public and then clicking on the name. It should give you a new page. Post that link.

With all 4 wheels on the ground the shaft will not spin..................
Yes the diffs are difficult to reach, get yourself a good power screw gun and some tips for it
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/asc/asc...source=froogle

I got the hexes seated in as far as possible before tightening the nut. Then, tighten until just before you see the hex start to turn. That was tight enough for me. Maybe you went too far...
Edit- only worked the first time until the plastic wore lol. I used a tiny 4" shifting spanner I have in my kit to hold the hex. Very easy...

The slipper- I hold the spring I think from memory, until there is enough pressure to hold itself from spinning, then I hold the spur gear and tighten further as required.