Had a great race day today! Truck was doing well until I stripped my only V2 spur . My 8mm spacer mod epically failed as the standoffs pulled right out of the shock tower causing me to loose Q2 and A2. Popped a ball-stud in Q1 loosing a lap. Won Q3 and came in 4th A1. (Spur stripped between Q3 and A1).
Truck was pretty good just need to do some fine tuning and find tires. It would jump nose down no matter what. There was one jump I would be at full throttle in the air and it would still nose dive. Probably the 2.5 oz in front of my saddles so I'll take some of that out. Hope to get one of the BH ESCs this week and plan to do a full tear-down and cleaning as school is now done.

Nice job, Jr.

I am pretty sure this has been discussed here before and I even saw some stuff in other threads, but it is still not clear to me, so . . .

I want to get +3mm wheels (hazard or sabertooth) and want to know if they work with: 1. stock AE contender body 2. proline flotek 3. jconcepts hiflow

If you can give a yes or no on any/some/all of these bodies running with the wide setup, much appreciated.

they should work fine with almost any body you use...

it brings the width to maximum legal.

It has nothing to do with the body. unless you use some ofna body. =P

Maybe I should clarify, I just wanted to make sure first, that the tires don`t stick out beyond the body width-wise, and second, the width doesn`t make them contact the body on full shock compression.

In short, if you have had trouble with wide wheels and one of the three bodies listed, a quick heads-up would be appreciated, or similarly, if you have run one of these three bodies with the wide tire and it was all good, I would appreciate the thumbs up.

We answered that question. :thumbs:


(and for the record: Every one of my tires/wheels rubs the body to some extent.)

Excellent, thank you for your replies. I'll buy with confidence.

Got bored and installed some LED lights for night races at the track.

So I finally got my truck running on a local outdoor track

It felt good considering it was box stock non FT. I did install a chassis brace, clutch basket and garodiscs. The only thing different is I have 10k in the front diff and 5k in the rear. My only complaints is that the rear was loose no matter what the track conditions were. I knew that after the fact I bought the truck. I also had quite a few traction rolls but I was able to quickly recover from them. I ended up 4th in the Amain and had a great time with it. I do need to turn down my throttle, as I would spin out if I gave it too much.

My main question is diff tuning with these trucks.

1. Are they similar to diff tuning with 8th scales?
2. Will going heavier in the rear help settle it down?
3. What are the next mods I should do to help performance? Or can tuning help a lot?

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Are you running swaybars? If not that will def. help as well as adding shims to the rear inside turnbuckles as well as raising the hubs by using the carbon fiber factory team b4/b44 adaptors etc......

any of you guys bash with your sc10's ? i mainly just race mine but ive seen alot of other brand trucks do both and was just curious to how bashers have their trucks set up if there are any out there... roll cages,scale looks etc..

Thanks!
Don't worry, A SC10 4x4 managed to pull of the win. Very surprising considering the track sounds like the bane of the Sc10s existence. It was all stock too!

So what are the best 4mm bullets for saddles?

smaller ID washer goes on first, lots of AE black grease and then other washer.

You can run the garodisc a lot looser than you think, I have setup cars where they actually slipped halfway down the straight but still had enough power to pass while slipping. before you change anything play with the garodisc settings, then sway bars followed by spring/piston/oil changes.