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Old 02-17-2012 | 05:49 PM
  #17731  
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Default Gearing????

Hi i just bought the associated sc10 4x4,im putting the mamba monster pro esc with a tekin redline 5.5 motor on it.whats a good gearing combo using the 32 pitch gears??
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Old 02-17-2012 | 06:19 PM
  #17732  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
MantisWorx-

I just got ur center diff. any recommendations for install...i gues my only question is how tight i should make the center diff? Or do i adjust it as i get a feel for it when i drive it? Thanks
Spring compressed all the way. Do not let it slip at all.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 06:43 PM
  #17733  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
That might be better yet. I don't have the center diff...yet but do have my own slipper set-up that I am liking. I run an almost bald tire at PRCR too just to free up the truck more. Full treads did make my truck push more. With the 7k in the rear, the rear slides around the corner more on power. As long as you don't diff out 5k might be the hot ticket with the center diff.
And what are you doing with the slipper? Standard pad for the front?
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Old 02-17-2012 | 06:50 PM
  #17734  
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Originally Posted by Hsheppard76
Hi i just bought the associated sc10 4x4,im putting the mamba monster pro esc with a tekin redline 5.5 motor on it.whats a good gearing combo using the 32 pitch gears??
Gonna need a bit more info that that....what size of track? indoor? outdoor? lots of technical corners, or more a high speed flowing track? what type of surface? what style are most of the jumps? what kind of batteries? what clutch system are you using? how long are your heats?

oooor.....maybe just start with a 15/62 combo and check your temps after 5 minutes, and if your temps are still under 170, see if you can make your batteries last the full length of the races.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 06:52 PM
  #17735  
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Originally Posted by sugs
And what are you doing with the slipper? Standard pad for the front?
Yes cut down more reducing the surface area further.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 07:09 PM
  #17736  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Guess that doesn't make me a Racer at all.
That's OK Coyote....we still love you.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 07:16 PM
  #17737  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
That's OK Coyote....we still love you.
Liar.


If I had the same Percentile in Driving skill as I do in building, rebuilding, repairing, troubleshooting~ etc... Man Watch out! I'm getting into the "cheese" now; Spending alot of time at the Track. So I'll post some vids and you guys can laugh at my Great lap then catastrophic F*ck up lap right after it.

Edit: I'm hoping maybe Cameron might take my Truck for a spin to see what he thinks.

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 02-17-2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 07:26 PM
  #17738  
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post it now
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Old 02-17-2012 | 07:37 PM
  #17739  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
post it now
Making High quality Tripod'd videos Sunday.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 07:44 PM
  #17740  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Spring compressed all the way. Do not let it slip at all.
Thanks cam
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Old 02-17-2012 | 08:25 PM
  #17741  
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Question for you guys who showed interest: Do you guys want to buy the Diff Bearing Mod as:

Diff housing with included mod Bearings only? Basically just replacing your housing, re-using your bearings and internals - Cheap Approx: $20.00 ea
Diff Housing
Or
Full Built Diff with internal gears, Outdrives, and bearings? Complete, Just add oil. - Not-so-Cheap Approx: $45.00 ea
Diff Kit
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Old 02-17-2012 | 08:33 PM
  #17742  
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Default Im in!

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Question for you guys who showed interest: Do you guys want to buy the Diff Bearing Mod as:

Diff housing with included mod Bearings only? Basically just replacing your housing, re-using your bearings and internals - Cheap
Or
Full Built Diff with internal gears, Outdrives, and bearings? Complete, Add oil. - Not-so-Cheap

Shaun, I would think that the best option is the first one. Makes sense since everyone is going to use a little different weight oil in their own setup.

Also, they can be used front and rear if Im not mistaken? Sooooooo, getting two is even better and then you REALLY wont know what weights we want....lol.

Just my two cents, but Im in for two housings and bearing sets. Might as well try to bullet proof the truck since Im always trying to break something (grin).

Sal
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Old 02-17-2012 | 08:34 PM
  #17743  
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
Shaun, I would think that the best option is the first one. Makes sense since everyone is going to use a little different weight oil in their own setup.

Also, they can be used front and rear if Im not mistaken? Sooooooo, getting two is even better and then you REALLY wont know what weights we want....lol.

Just my two cents, but Im in for two housings and bearing sets. Might as well try to bullet proof the truck since Im always trying to break something (grin).

Sal
Sorry! I mean you add the oil. It'd be a dry diff.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 08:38 PM
  #17744  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Sorry! I mean you add the oil. It'd be a dry diff.
I vote the first. But you can always offer both.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 08:43 PM
  #17745  
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Default No Worries

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Sorry! I mean you add the oil. It'd be a dry diff.
Sorry Shaun, I read it quickly and posted quickly. Realized afterwards they would be dry...DUH!

Anyway, I will take two diffs.....just let me know when and H$W much....lol.

Sal

PS, I had a friend dart my truck a dozen times or so at my local track (Island Raceway and Hobby). NO failure of your FT Brace!

Last edited by PastaBoyNY; 02-17-2012 at 08:43 PM. Reason: spelling!
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