Nothing wrong with a MMP!

I don't know about a number but its actually pretty easy to assemble. If its your first build just take your time and follow the instructions. Just make sure you use the right screws, which is the only downfall of this build because there are alot of them lol.......

I need HELP! I've taken my front and rear apart and looked in both gear boxes. the only thing i have not done yet is look in the diffs themselves. when i get on the throttle it makes a bad grinding sound and i lose some power. its not the clicker I've already tightened that up. any suggestions?

Redoing my Diff oil to 5/5k and going from there for PRCR with the center diff.

Using my Diff pull method, i've gotten it to 5 minutes to both diffs. Li-ion Drill assisted, obviously.

In 5 minutes:

This is very much common knowledge to the majority of us, But every day I have kids to seniors coming in and complaining about wrenching.

The best thing you could ever throw in your Pit/tool/tackle Box. Is a Cordless power Drill. I would debate buying a Power Drill over an upgrade such as a Plastic to Aluminium Shock. Variable Speed, Clutch, and Quick Chuck is King. If no clutch, snug it up to the location and hand tighten it, No Chuck? Use the bits in your Hand Driver Handles. (they're 2.00 apiece)

To all of you guys lurking this thread, You spend the money on this one time instead of some FT upgrade, you will "enjoy" your Truck, rebuilding and tuning; which ultimately will result in less money spent in parts replacement and less wear on the Truck itself. Dremel makes them, Ryobi, Black and decker will even work. GO.

What in the world? Is this the v2 center diff or something different you are testing? Anyways it looks real trick. Love my center diff btw.

No. doesn't have 'anything' to do the the center diff. It's an attempt at air control like other Short course 1/8 conversions.

Im confused. Earlier there was a guy complaining of the opposite, needing more traction and he was recommended to add shims to the rear link. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10266545

HAHA thanks man, appreciate the response, I'm gonna pull the trigger on a FT when their available, I can't wait

Last night I got my diff out in 6minutes with my $30 cordless LI-ON drill. It was very easy. I actually find maintenance on this easier than my slash, it just takes some getting used too.
Is there any thing wrong with running blue/blue springs? I tried yellow/yellow but it over and understeers like crazy.

Anyone else have any problems with the shock mounts stripping the shock tower?
CoyoteSlash,
Will be be offering the bearing mod to people with the diffs and bearing already just not the tools like you did with the pin mod?

As long as you can work a screwdriver you should be fine

Most of the build you will have to know how to do anyway to get the diffs out and for other regular maintenance, so I think it's better to do the whole thing from scratch at least once so you see how it all goes together. Remember that you will probably do a more careful job than some kid in china.

I think there are some good build videos out there, plus you can grab the manual off the AE site to help you decide how difficult it will be.

Makita has always been the best in my experiance, and my big 18v drill is Makita, but this guy: http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/tek4#/overview

Has worked really well for me in my RC tool box. I also recommend this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Set-w-Handle A lot more than I wanted to pay for hexes, but it has all the sizes you need for a sc10 or sc1044 (and i'm guessing all of AE's stuff) and the fat handle makes it easy to turn the screw in tight places.

With that screwgun, hexset, then a hex driver (sorry forget what size) for the wheels and you can change parts like an indy pitman for less than $100

Do you mean the big hex side part of the shaft stripping the holders on the tower? If so then yes, I just tighten the shock down holding it with pliers and it stays on fine. I think there are some FT inserts you can get to fix that as well.

Dont confuse rotation with traction they are two different animals. Adding shims to the rear link will make the truck rotate on entry and increase exit grip. your not going to lose traction