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Old 02-18-2012 | 06:29 AM
  #17776  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Do you mean the big hex side part of the shaft stripping the holders on the tower? If so then yes, I just tighten the shock down holding it with pliers and it stays on fine. I think there are some FT inserts you can get to fix that as well.
Yep those. I got to get some of those inserts!
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Old 02-18-2012 | 06:57 AM
  #17777  
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Is there a part no for those I had a problem on day 2 with those things.


Very curious to see how the idler helps with jumping. I'm not sure how it will help but as long as it does that's all that matters.

wet weather and having no saddles has foiled my 4x4 plans.

Mantis and you said my truck was dirty! hahah
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Old 02-18-2012 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Yep those. I got to get some of those inserts!
The manual says nothing of inserts.. I had the same issue, stripped right away. I ended up using pliers too.
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Old 02-18-2012 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
I need HELP! I've taken my front and rear apart and looked in both gear boxes. the only thing i have not done yet is look in the diffs themselves. when i get on the throttle it makes a bad grinding sound and i lose some power. its not the clicker I've already tightened that up. any suggestions?
Any one have any ideas
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Old 02-18-2012 | 08:14 AM
  #17780  
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
Any one have any ideas
How does the mesh between your pinion and spur look? Does your spur look chewed up?
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Old 02-18-2012 | 08:30 AM
  #17781  
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Originally Posted by Arakon
The manual says nothing of inserts.. I had the same issue, stripped right away. I ended up using pliers too.
Sorry, I thought that's what these were, but now that I look closer I'm not sure:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-C-Left-Right
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Old 02-18-2012 | 08:41 AM
  #17782  
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Originally Posted by MCPilot
How does the mesh between your pinion and spur look? Does your spur look chewed up?
its perfect. no teeth missing. still looks brand new
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Old 02-18-2012 | 08:42 AM
  #17783  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Sorry, I thought that's what these were, but now that I look closer I'm not sure:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-C-Left-Right
Those are for raising the outer rear camber link location............
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Old 02-18-2012 | 09:00 AM
  #17784  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
495.99 will not be the final price.

It will sit right inside of 350.00
Yikes - when it first was orderable, the price was $349.98 less $50 coupon, net $299.98!
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Old 02-18-2012 | 10:07 AM
  #17785  
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
Any one have any ideas
more than likely the rear dif gears, order new ones and shim it from the get go and the noise should go away.
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Old 02-18-2012 | 10:36 AM
  #17786  
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
Any one have any ideas
Start with the rear diff sounds like an idle gear, sometimes the sun gear get rounded also
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Old 02-18-2012 | 04:10 PM
  #17787  
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Once again I am considering saddles. So inline or side by side? Why?
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Old 02-18-2012 | 04:56 PM
  #17788  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Once again I am considering saddles. So inline or side by side? Why?
Inline, transitions quicker and the truck needs some weight upfront.
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Old 02-18-2012 | 05:10 PM
  #17789  
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Do they remove understeer as much as side by side does?
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Old 02-18-2012 | 05:42 PM
  #17790  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Anyone else have any problems with the shock mounts stripping the shock tower?
CoyoteSlash,
Will be be offering the bearing mod to people with the diffs and bearing already just not the tools like you did with the pin mod?
Thread the 5.5 nut onto the Shaft where the shock would go, and use it as a counter to you threading the 7mm Nut to tighten down the shock post. Easy. (of course plastic isn't going to hold up to you twisting a hex against it.) That plastic is only supposed to hold the shaft from spinning when removing the shock, Not the Shock post installation itself.

And can you rephrase your question? What tools? You mean send me your diff for me to cut and send bearings with? or what?
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