Thanks alot I'm going to try out the new flo-tek body and see how it works with the vented holes....... And thanks on the tip about trying to clear big jumps, because I did run my 2wd sc10 there and even with no wind on certain jumps that I tried to full throttle I would def. get alot of parachuting........

Ride height vs even shock collars
 

Today I decided to set my ride height on both sides of the truck for a true 25mm on both sides, front and rear and discovered that in order to get my ride height even accross the tub I have to go about three more revolutions on the shock preload collars on the battery side.

Seems to me that even though it looks odd when you look at the shock collars this should be the right way to go as the extra weight on the battery side is a constant throughout the stroke.

So, is this the right way to do it or should I split the difference?

i love this truck!!
One complaint is that ive lost all diff fluid (7k) in the front after 10 packs.
I filled it with 30k and made sure the diff seals were properly lubed and cases tightend down.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...a/9fd5fca8.jpg

Got bars today! Thanks MadRussian!

Anyway... thinking about trying a Durango SC, anyone have one and wants to trade?

I like the way the AE drives, Best I've driven, the Durango is the only truck I haven't tried.

awesome paint Lou

Where is everyone measuring ride height from? Where the center chassis intersects the front and rear segments, or under the ends of the car? With the the way the bottom slopes it makes a big differece. Thanks guys.

I'm pretty happy with the way my truck handles on the ground, I just need the truck to land smoother. I am thinking about trying reducing the pack(larger holes in the pistons). Has anyone tried that yet? Results?

Just about to start the build on the sc10 4x4. I have heard people saying that there diffs in the kit sometimes doesnt come pre-assembled with enough diff fluid in it? If that is the case, is it better to just open the diff up and check? And if the diff doesnt have enough diff fluid in it, should I use more of the stock weight for the diffs, or are people changing to a heavery/lighter diff fluid? Any help would be appreciated

"Proper" way to do it would be to find a way to reduce weight on the battery side or add weight to the RX/ESC side. I remember seeing somewhere back a few bzillion pages that many of the better racers (club and pro) were adding weight to the front left of the truck (I'm guessing in the empty space in front of the transponder mount). I don't think it needed much, but can't recall. 4 scales (1 under each wheel) will tell you exactly how much and when you have it balanced.

I always measure ride height from the lowest point on the chassis, since that is what will hit the ground when the suspension is fully compressed. If you're not 100% sure by eyeballing it, put a little bit of flour/drywall dust/other fine white powder down on a perfectly flat surface, then press your truck to the ground....the part that bottoms out will pick up a bit of the white powder, then you will know where the lowest point is.

I'm running the larger holes, but still haven't found a good balance of oil front to back yet. Trying 50frnt, 40rear this Friday....40-30 just isn't doing it for me...even with a 30mm ride height, I'm bottoming out hard when climbing a jump, which seems to be part of my problem with nose diving...

"sometimes" is an incorrect statement. "most of the time" would be more correct. You need these diffs FULL of fluid.... the people assembling the diffs at the factory squirted oil in until it reached the top of the diff, then closed it up...didn't realize/care that there would be air trapped under the gears that needs to be worked to the surface.

As for what to put in it, that all depends on your track/driving style/rest of the truck's setup.
Many seem to like 5k or 7k in the back, and between 10k and 60k up front.
I built mine with 3k in both (stock setup) and don't like it at all, but I'm not you and I don't race at your track. I would honestly say try the 3k in the front and back, or 5k in both....get a feel for the truck...then make some small changes.

Several people earlier have stated that this truck rewards finesse driving, so keep that in mind as you learn to drive it. If it isn't handling well, think about the way you are driving it and see if there is any way that you can be more smooth on the throttle and steering.

If I get some time tonight or tomorrow, I will be cleaning them out and replacing it with 5k in the back and 10k up front, then try that out for a few packs. I'm not a fan of making big changes, or lots of them at the same time.

Change one thing...change it by a little bit...see if it helps or hurts.

(Also, remove all the oil from your shocks...remove the screws that hold the piston head on, clean the shaft and the screw with motor cleaner or brake cleaner, locktite the screw, put it back together and let the locktite set...overnight if possible. If you put them back together and fill them with oil before the locktite sets, it never will.... That was the other problem with the pre-built parts. Almost everyone who left the shocks the way they came from the factory have had problems with at least 1 screw backing out)

Def. a must to open the diff's, even if they have fluid in them its better to do so now and add your own diff fluid........ Alot of people are running 5k in the rear, and the fronts are at a range of 7k all the way up to 50k............

Also redo your shocks as well because they are preassembled, and there have been issues with the shocks as well, just read up on how to fix them because I haven't had any issues with mine. I run 32.5w front shocks and 25w rear...........

The Issue with the shocks is that team associated does not lock tite the shock shaft screw so when the screw backs out the shaft with the oil will come out of the bottom of the shock body.I hate when stuff is pre-assembled because you have to take it apart just in case it wasnt done right:nod:

Mine actually had some white threadlock on them....but again, if it isn't cured, it won't hold!

I actually just looked up on Loctite's site...Blue Loctite threadlocker will set in about 10 minutes, but takes 24 hours to fully cure.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf
Page 2.

Looks like both the front and rear sway's are in at A-main....

Actually, the proper way is to put enough fluid in the diff to just cover the cross bars (about 75-80% full) not 100% full.

I have added the 21g to the front left but the car is still grossly out of balance even running the 550 ballistic. I really don't want to add several ounces to my svelte sc10.

I have it setup now by ride height and I'm ignoring the collars. Tonight is track night so I'll know soon if it's going to do anything wierd.

You are SO lucky you insisted on prepaying, I had 12 ordered, 2 showed.:lol:
Now I have 15 fronts and 15 rears backordered, and already 11 spoken for :weird:

I would suggest driving a Durango SC 1st and talking to people about it that have one, its not built near as stout as the SC-10 4x4, and has had some issues. Examine the arms, they look like 10th scale buggy arms. That kinda turned me off when they first came out