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has anyone stumbled across a real solution for the outdrive wobble on the diffs? I read several pages back to rebuild them and be generous with the black grease on the o-rings for the outdrives. I replaced the diff covers and used a bunch of black grease but there is still a slight wobble. does this mean that frequent service will be necessary? that's gonna suck. i do have the grooves where the driveshaft has been hitting the outdrive cups. i put some fuel tubing on the shock shaft and turned the bottom out 3 turns. hopefully that will reduce some of the upward stroke.
anyhow. still loving the truck. not loving my job though. it keeps me from driving this truck. i might get a little spunk this week and race it for the first time. ben |
[QUOTE=symmetricon;9318935]High torque slipper pads(a must IMO!)
QUOTE] Are these other than the stock slipper pads? What is the difference? What is the part number for these? |
ASC91170. Same material but a lot more surface area. Many are using one of these on the outside of the spur only which drives the rear diff. This is used primarily with 550 size motors because of the increased torque. I'm using 2 of these because of the amount of tension required to keep the slipper from slipping. It's a tuning option you can experiment with depending on available traction and your preference.
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I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same. |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9320921)
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same. |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9320921)
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same. |
Gonna take my sc10 4x4 to the local outdoor track for the first time since its reopening this weekend...... I'm used to indoor tight clay tracks so this will be a challenge for me running on a dirt 1/8th scale track......... Any suggestions on setups? Thanks
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9320942)
Boiling will only make them softer.
Seems AE should not have not put the open hole in the rear part of the arm. Those with the location of the sway bar mount makes a bendy part of the arm. |
Originally Posted by bschanz
(Post 9320368)
has anyone stumbled across a real solution for the outdrive wobble on the diffs? I read several pages back to rebuild them and be generous with the black grease on the o-rings for the outdrives. I replaced the diff covers and used a bunch of black grease but there is still a slight wobble. does this mean that frequent service will be necessary? that's gonna suck. i do have the grooves where the driveshaft has been hitting the outdrive cups. i put some fuel tubing on the shock shaft and turned the bottom out 3 turns. hopefully that will reduce some of the upward stroke.
I also need a proper solution for the outdrive wobble. The wobble is getting worse and as result I have to keep refilling the diffs. |
Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9319926)
Duh, i forgot about the sway bars because i made my own, they helped out alot though, another must!
Question, what batteries ae you guys running? My gens ace 40c 5000mah and my nano-tech 25-50c 6000mah batteries ar getting hot, 120-130 degs. It seems that the tenshock and the castle pulls some amps?! Im looking at the promatch 60c 6200mah batteries, anyone try these? |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9320921)
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same. Hasn't happened to mine yet nock on wood. |
Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9321642)
Anything in particular that caused it? Hard crashes or landings, are you running thicker shock oils?
Hasn't happened to mine yet nock on wood. |
Thunder Power
Originally Posted by jaybird95
(Post 9321438)
Thunder power 65c 5300mah are awsome:nod::nod:
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As for the wobble in the outdrives, I believe its only in the rear, right? I believe it has to do with the rear a-arms hitting the cup, check it out. I'm running the rear shocks with 4mm of the limiter clips. I have the rear backed out 3 turns no boot and emulsion style. When I did this I noticed the shock compresses enough that the arm would press into the outdrive. Since I put in the limiters, my outdrives seem to not wobble.
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I have the front sway bars should I wait to put then on til I get the back ones?
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