The paintjob is AWESOME!!!!
and nice photography too.

Hello all


Recently bought and built my sc10 4x4, all was well until today.
It started making a click/grind in the rear end on acceleration.
Spur and pinion are beautiful, slipper is fine. I took the belt off and reinstalled the slipper assembly and ran it in RWD and had no noise. The thrust bearing looked ok... Maybe it is'nt? Ive checked all the normal things such as too tight, too loose screws, binding, incorrect assembly.. I was running and it started mid run so yea.. HELP!! lol

Just looked at it all again closely. Trans spins great. Diff is fine.. There is a groove on my slipper thrust spacer.. Will that do it??

two runs with stock wheels brand new enduros i cut them off on the back side cleaned em out and plugged the large holes redrilled to right size. whats up with the whole row of tiny holes around the inside of the wheel near the bead?

Yep... Posted this on Page 144 that all racers should do:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9164036.
Again...
Put TWO holes in each of your tires so the sand, dirt, rocks can escape by Centrifugal force. Some people, (like me) just cut it out with scissors however for a cleaner look... you can make the holes with a Leather punch.
http://www.horsetackinternational.co...ther-punch.jpg

im glad to have the resources here on the forum i was baffled never had this happen before. i just bought six sets of stock wheels and lots on new tires i plugged all the crazy holes on the wheels before i glued up my new tires then made new appropriate sized holes and im planning on venting the tires too. i already have them glues so im thinking about taking a small rod heating it up to make the holes since the rubber is so soft its hard to get anything through it with the tires mounted.

From what I understand, those are to help facilitate glueing the sidewalls to the wheel. A tiny drop of glue in each of the holes will help the tire from rolling over on the sidewall...

Works good for stock wheels and tires, but my AKA tires don't have a smooth inner sidewall...kind of a honeycomb grid sort of thing.... I haven't mounted them up yet, but I don't think they will line up nicely with these holes... Probably just coat the part of the wheel that mates with the sidewall before glueing the beads....

I think its bogus that you have to plug all these stupid holes and I think they should def have something in the manual warning against this happening . Ive never had any other wheels do this and if you call associated they act like your stupid and you should know better which maybe im ignorant or just stupid but I dont need to be made to feel even more stupid when I call for assistance from them . I was not happy !!! btw I silly-coned mine up and vented the tires to prevent it .

that's why I run the new DE wheels, they look much better as well

for those little holes, do you need to plug them if you also cut holes in the tires with a leather punch or the scissors method?

You don't need to but You could, I put glue there so the rim sticks to the tire.

thanks, I am going to use the stock tires as well as some proline calibers. Will do the hole in the tire tip but I think I may leave those holes exposed or at a minimum, glue the sidewall if its an option.

Order 2 sets of the trackstar orings too. How fast do they usually ship out.

Will all the bad weather and stuff we are having and some other issues, my SC10 4x4 still sits in its box. :(

My O rings shipped out in a day and they arrived in 2-3 days after that, you should have them in less than a week.

one other thing and this is related to the sway bars, if you can only get the fronts, is it worth to get now and look for some rears when they become available or do you need both for it to pay off?

Losi Parts house had the front sway in stock last night if someone needs them.

I would run the fronts until you get your hands on a set of rears. Here is an interesting write-up on sway bars:

http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/sway-bar.html