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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

BigRon 07-10-2011 01:21 PM

Big Chris,

I too run a 1410/MMP combo. You should try 50k in the front diff and 7k in the rear. Also try out 20/93 gearing with +15deg timing. I love it on both med/small tracks that I've run on. I have an Integy dual fan/heatsink custom mounted that keeps my temps around 115deg after a 8min main.

maddysdaddy 07-10-2011 01:50 PM

Wondering if the vented slipper helps or hurts? Is it removing material from the pad? This is after one run...

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...r/a6419b02.jpg

captaindemo17 07-10-2011 01:59 PM

I would debur the holes a litte with a reamer or another drill bit a little bigger than the hole. I am still waiting for my vented one but now i know what to expect when i do get it. Thanks for posting the pic!

smellslikenitro 07-10-2011 02:19 PM


Originally Posted by big chris (Post 9369677)
Last nights club race didn't go as smoothly as the past week's. I had some belt issues and had a motor mount screw strip out. :weird:

As to my question, as I drive this more and get away from my past 2wd mentality I have noticed more of a solid push on the on/off power steering. Anyone else notice this on wet/loamy tracks? I am using the underdrive pulley on the front and 4x4 locked. We Have a big triple that I use the 4x4 to steady the flight of the truck, but thinking about using the clicker to get around the corners better and figuring a smooth way over the triple. This could very well just be my driving style but I still need to figure out a tighter turning radius at low speeds.

I use 7k front, 3k rear.....Could a easy fix be thicker fluid in the front?

Also, I think I want to find bearings with a lip to replace the plastic belt tensioner....Mine had black junk on it from the belt and did not spin freely.

Hi, it is your motor. The problem with the 4 poles is that they have such a big resistance that they brake the car if you only let off the throttle. With the clicker activated it gets much much better, but if you dont like the 2wd behavior you can put your throttle bias in your radio to 5 to 10% to the throttle, so that the motor always pushes the car a bit, or buy a 2 pole - but please, no LRP...

Fred_B 07-10-2011 02:21 PM

The material in the holes looks white. If you have white pads they're old ones. The high torque pads are a must with the stock slipper. You'll also need to run the stock slipper really tight especially on high bite tracks.

JFuel11 07-10-2011 02:26 PM

Vented Slipper
 
Rather than vented I think I would rather have a Slipper hub that has some heatsink material and a swirl shape in it so that it would act more like a fan and move air rather than the vented. But with the clutch basket it is a mute point as my slipper issues are completely solved.

maddysdaddy 07-10-2011 03:02 PM


Originally Posted by Fred_B (Post 9369912)
The material in the holes looks white. If you have white pads they're old ones. The high torque pads are a must with the stock slipper. You'll also need to run the stock slipper really tight especially on high bite tracks.

That is HT pad material in there. There was a bit of it all over the spur and inside the cover. Hmmmm...
I, too, am waiting anxiously on the clutch basket. It should be here in the next few days.

Mac The Knife 07-10-2011 04:05 PM


Originally Posted by maddysdaddy (Post 9370025)
That is HT pad material in there. There was a bit of it all over the spur and inside the cover. Hmmmm...
I, too, am waiting anxiously on the clutch basket. It should be here in the next few days.

All the orders have been sent,,,,,, except the one that came through about a half hour ago.

Stealth_RT 07-10-2011 04:51 PM

Qualified and finished second today. Tracks wasn't very forgiving to 4x4 SCTs, more of an 1/8th scale/truggy track. Spent the day experimenting with the setup and getting the Serpent BB 1/8th scale shocks that I installed dialed in. Final setup today was 6 hole pistons drilled out 55, 30 wt AE oil and Orange Serpent springs (4.4 rate) on front, 6 hole 55 pistons, 25 wt AE oil, and Serpent pink rear springs (2.8 rate). Shocks mounted middle upper holes and lower outer holes front and rear. The Serpent upper shock standoffs and shock bushings are a perfect fit on this truck. Used the stock AE lower shock ball end. Suspension was plush and it went through the rutted/bumpy areas way better than with the stock shocks. Didn't bottom out and bounce around as much on hard landings either. Front and rear shocks have 5mm internal limiting, but I need more limiting in the rears, truck has too much rear droop. Another 2mm needed probably. The truck now feels like it has real, high end suspension, instead of creaky, sticky, spring rubbing the shock body Tyco suspension.

Mac The Knife 07-10-2011 05:19 PM

What slipper pads were you running?


Originally Posted by Stealth_RT (Post 9370453)
Qualified and finished second today. Tracks wasn't very forgiving to 4x4 SCTs, more of an 1/8th scale/truggy track. Spent the day experimenting with the setup and getting the Serpent BB 1/8th scale shocks that I installed dialed in. Final setup today was 6 hole pistons drilled out 55, 30 wt AE oil and Orange Serpent springs (4.4 rate) on front, 6 hole 55 pistons, 25 wt AE oil, and Serpent pink rear springs (2.8 rate). Shocks mounted middle upper holes and lower outer holes front and rear. The Serpent upper shock standoffs and shock bushings are a perfect fit on this truck. Used the stock AE lower shock ball end. Suspension was plush and it went through the rutted/bumpy areas way better than with the stock shocks. Didn't bottom out and bounce around as much on hard landings either. Front and rear shocks have 5mm internal limiting, but I need more limiting in the rears, truck has too much rear droop. Another 2mm needed probably. The truck now feels like it has real, high end suspension, instead of creaky, sticky, spring rubbing the shock body Tyco suspension.


OSherman 07-10-2011 05:34 PM

Chassis nut...
 
4 Attachment(s)
dont know if anyone else has run into this issue... too many pages to sift thru.

basically i pulled one of the bottom captured nuts thru the chassis a lil while back. i first passed it off as being 'heavy handed' with the wrench, which isnt unusual for myself.. sat down to replace the pieces today and as usual i investigated a possible way to prevent this from happening. but, i come to find out it was not entirely my heavy hands to blame. but i do think i figured out a solution.

basically in pic one you will a center chassis piece.. right (front) bottom of chassis has a nice 'boss' molded in to prevent pull-thru... left (rear) bottom of chassis simply shows the pass thru hole for the screw, but no 'boss'... all other chassis pieces in kit has the boss to prevent an 'air gap/void' between interlocking pieces which could lead to a collapse then fastener is tightened.. probably just a simple oops in the mold..

basically, i just need to fill the gap..

i think just a simple spacer could do the trick when assembling the chassis again, or maybe go a step further and shape an insert to put more material in the gap... shaped spacer pic shows just the beginning of shaping.. finished shaped would closely match contour of chassis interface.

JEFFs SC10 07-10-2011 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by maddysdaddy (Post 9369814)
Wondering if the vented slipper helps or hurts? Is it removing material from the pad? This is after one run...

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...r/a6419b02.jpg

looks like it's acting like a cheese grater LOL :lol:

Stealth_RT 07-10-2011 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by Mac The Knife (Post 9370555)
What slipper pads were you running?

Using your clutch basket, with two high torque slipper pads. Honestly, I never look at them or worry about them slipping. The truck will still try and pull the front wheels off the ground if I'm on a grippy section of track. :lol:

bohdi 07-10-2011 06:08 PM


Originally Posted by Mac The Knife (Post 9370229)
All the orders have been sent,,,,,, except the one that came through about a half hour ago.

Guys, I highly recommend this slipper mod. Night and day difference with my 4x4. Motor was about 20 degrees cooler (Tekin 5.5 with RX8) and had plenty of bottom end too .
Kudos for this Stephen and shame on AE for not making this stock to begin with;)
Simple and brilliant.
Btw, I am using the 2 stock pads on the inside and HT on the outside but thinking I could easily do without the HT slippers from here on.

AZRC4Me 07-10-2011 06:29 PM


Originally Posted by bohdi (Post 9370769)
Guys, I highly recommend this slipper mod. Night and day difference with my 4x4. Motor was about 20 degrees cooler (Tekin 5.5 with RX8) and had plenty of bottom end too .
Kudos for this Stephen and shame on AE for not making this stock to begin with;)
Simple and brilliant.
Btw, I am using the 2 stock pads on the inside an HT on the outside but thinking I could easily do without the HT slippers from here on.

I ran mine box stock at West Coast last night and the truck felt ok, I still need to get it dialed in a little (4.5 550 can Ballistic, 12/62, 30k/5k, 35/30 AE oil, 2.0/1.5 sways) The slippers wouldn't even last a full 5 minute heat for me (indoor clay surface), and that was with an HT pad on the outer, vented slipper hub, etc. I talked to a guy who ran one, he mentioned to try double nutting the locknut on the slipper spring as the stock one has a tendency to back off. I tried this, still didn't really help, slipper pads glazed over about midway through the 2nd qualifier, and that was with tightening the slipper spring as tight as I could get it, then adding a second locknut.

I think this issue is due to a couple things, possibly a tolerancing issue on the spring, spring washer, thread depth on the upper diff shaft, etc. I think the stock locknut bottoms out on the threads of the upper diff shaft before the spring reaches coil bind. I could play around with it and measure, etc, but my time is more valuable than that - the clutch basket is on order. Looking forward to trying it, and interested to see what AE comes up with to fix this, it definitely is an issue I'd like to see fixed.


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