i picked up a set of cva pin retainers and was wondering what bearing you have to get so they will fit,does anyone know? sorry i didnt see this thresd before i built my truck looks like i will have to break it down to check the shocks and diffs. also several of the other items mentioned will need to be addressed. i thought it was strange to have the diffs and shocks pre-built in a kit....:cool:

Yes, smoother is faster with this truck. Other SCT's on the market have to manhandled to go fast, not this one:p

Where did you buy this? You have a link you can post?

www.hot-racing.com

Direct fit for the sc10 4x4.

They also make a vented slipper assembly and sway bars. I purchased both but haven't installed yet. Still playing around

But this all metal one way pulley is most def a great upgrade in my opinion. Been running on it for about 4 hours on and off and have found no issues yet. Great part

I used Kyosho p/n 96643 shim set to alleviate this possible problem. Let's see if I can explain this so it is understandable. So, put the outdrive in the diff case (use green slime in outdrive oring), the put a kyosho shim on (pkg comes with .1, .2, .3mm thick shims), then install diff inner o-ring (green slime again), then washer (per manual), then sun gear pin, then sun gear... I used the thickest shim I could use which still allowed me to get the sun gear pin installed. Do this with both halves. So far I mine have not shown any signs of leaking and there is not wobble with the outdrives. When I pulled the diffs apart to do this there was pretty much no diff fluid left in them because they had leaked so much.

So all of this talk about diffs being extremely leaky and the outdrives becoming very loose got me pretty nervous. I took a look at my arms and out drive clearance and noticed only very minor surface scratches "near" the outdrives. So from what i can tell on my ride that clearance seems to be fine and the wobbly looseness of the outdrives are the same both front and rear.

Having a 2wd sc10, it seems that the outdrive issue seems pretty standard with a.e. and just like any diff its going to need rebuilding sooner or later. ~20 packs imo.

To clear this whole issue up though can someone with this clearance issue that makes it so bad that its causing their diffs to pretty much drain fluid please post pics of the clearance issue to better illustrate. Also I think it would be helpful to say if your running bladder vs emulsion, shock boot, bump stop, etc.

Thanks

The clearance issue is the dogbone under full compression hits the diff drive cup. The evidence is the marks that will be on the dogbone. This causes side loads to be applied to the diff cup causing the looseness. There have been other posts that stated their diff housing showed a lot of wear around the outdrive bushings. On my truck I see the same marks as you on the arms but the issue is the dogbone to diff outdrive. I run the shocks stock "out of the box" the only change was the oil and thread lock added to the piston screw.

BulldogSRT

I haven't run mine yet, because i was having some grinding noise coming from the slipper/rear diff. I rebuilt the rear diff & the noise is gone, but never found out exactly what the problem was.?.
So, my maiden voyage will be Monday, but towards the wobbling out drives. I found that the out drives only are slightly wobbling when i first pull the trigger. But once i pull the trigger harder/faster speeds they don't wobble anymore. Now, I havn't drove it yet, this is only what i noticed sitting on the stand, with no tires on.
I have my shocks bladder style, and two 2mm clips limiting the up travel, plus the rubber stops on each shock. This is because I took out the upper X-ring. With the 4mm in up travel limiters&rubber stops, the dog bones do not hit the inside of the out drive. Once again, this is on the stand with no tires&havn't drove it yet. But, it seems that having the limiters on&the shocks this way, the dogbones are not making contact with the inner out drives.
Just my observations so far. THX

AE clicker assembly is not an adjustable unit, it's either on or off, been covered before. When running the clicker, the spring tension is so minimal for a car/truck this heavy that it will act just like a one-way bearing set-up. IMO, IMO, IMO you pissed away $20 on a one-way set-up that doesn't do anything the factory clicker doesn't do...:rolleyes:...again by design the front clicker is NOT an adjustable unit....it's an on or off option..

Anyone know this size?

I was thinking about tightening the outdrive up with some shims behind the pin... Do you know how much shimming you used? Also have you ran it yet and is it still holding together? Any negative side effects you've noticed?

Well in my opinion. I mean I'm not a veterinarian or nothing. But the one way bearing is a hell of an upgrade. I didn't do it because I thought spring tension was an issue. I like my front end to free spin off power without hearing that bullshit clicking resistance. So in my opinion, your opinion sucks. and having been an engineer for a very long time. For someone to say that the clicker has no adjustment is a crock. In fact the pressure increase and decrease does make a considerable difference in engagement and disengagement of the clicker. Maybe it wasn't intended that way but maybe you should play with it at different rpms and tap the breaks at different pressures just so you can see.

Dude lighten up, its an online forum and theres no need for vulgar language.... That can be an automatic temp. suspension, besides its your money who cares what others thing on how you spend it. If you like what you did with it then thats all that matters.........

Here we go again with the "adjustable clicker-pressure-spring" thing.

Let me bring to light (again) the history of the clicker:

Created by Gil Losi Jr in the mid 1990's as a way to GET RID OF the UNRELIABLE and expensive one way clutch bearings we had been accustomed to in 4WD r/c racing since the original Yokomo Dog Fighter.

The spring is (and always was) intended to simply allow the ratcheting effect without stripping the teeth off. Sure Gil and his team experimented with heavier springs to slow this effect down and add some drag to the front under braking.

Fast forward to AE borrowing this design and using it as it was originally intended for. LOCKED or FREE WHEEL.

kromesoldier, I have no problem with the concept of the oneway bearing other than it will eventually fail and be expensive to replace but probably not before it wears out the top shaft of the tranny as it is not hardened enough to withstand the abuse of a OWC bearing.

Again I'm not bashing your purchase just bringing to light why AE went with the annoying sound over the one way.