i´m running Ansmann Dr.Liquid - High speed diff grease! no oil! haven´t any probs yet!

http://www3.ansmann.de/cms/de/zubeho...quid-oils.html

You're welcome!

If you buy real quality electrical tape like the Scotch Super 33+ you will have no problem reusing the tape. It's thin, stretchy and heat resistant.

Thanks! It's Ultimate Racing's "Electric Blue" (spray can).

Yes, I will open up most of them. I think I leave the small ones above the front tires. To much work to get them opened...

I.d. .265 " its a std drill size 17/64" I found a a washer and just drilled the I.d. and it pressed on fine .

Thanks for the advice, but I am in a little bit of a pickle. I traded a guy a 2nd RS unit that I had for a new Mamba MAX Pro esc. After having the unit installed the last thing to do was plug in the sensored harness. I pushed to here the little click only to have the wire pop back out of the esc housing with the white female connector on it. It broke inside :flaming:...:cry: Right now money is tight so I can't just go buy another esc (and it would be a RX8). suggestions would be welcome :)

BTW, I have already e-mailed Castle Creations, no reply yet

Ran/raced my truck for the first time Saturday and on Sunday
looked the car over/clean day, found wear/rub marks on all dogbones and a very fine wear mark/groove on rear arms from outdrives rubbing. outdrives wobbling and leaking. I think for me I'll machine off in my lathe1.5 to 2 mm off rear outdrives and 1 mm from front, also some up-travel limiters may be required as bones at full travel really put pressure on the outdrives and causing wear problems on my truck from what I can see. I also did call AE and talked to chris about it who said it was no big deal and wasn't offered any diff cases,
I'll report back on my fix when I get some parts.

Steve:tire:

Call castle... I had a brand new one do the same thing

After 3 different times at the track trying different things I'm still getting hot temps with my motor over 180* ..pinions used 13 and 14 ..going to buy more this week but has any body had to lower then 12/62 ? I'm running small indoor track lots of stop and go. I added washer to slipper plate so can clamp it down good but I notice that if I compress spring completely it Bends the spur shaft and when I turn tires be hand I can see it
then I saw that the belt actually goes up and down just a hair but. This might be where heat is coming from maybe spur had run runout causing a bind with pinion ? Just thinking out load any help or advice thanks..

gear up to 15/16 tooth.

U again lol jk..ya going higher still seems wierd but I will try it ..how about the shaft bend thing have you seen this ..I'm just looking for something else to be wrong but I hope it is just the pinion.

No "Mods" just what is proven to work. AKA is not a gimick company. When a new idea emerges it is tested from their top Pro's clear down to the local racers. If it benefits the majority it is then put into production.

I dont understand why you have to tighten the slipper down that much..

A shaft bending is not good at all. If you have to tighten it that much to keep the pads from glazing something is wrong. You can try those hi torque pads and see if that helps.

I go by real experience, not theory like some other people LOL. Gearing up will most likely solve your problem. Try it, a pinion cost what $3? LOL

Its gonna make your truck a helluva lot quicker too. :tire:

Gearing up will make it faster
Gearing down will make it quicker


Still unsure about the whole temp thing... in my E-maxx and my Rally car, it was the opposite... If I went higher on the pinion, the motor got hotter...

I'll be trying out a 16T on mine tonight (if the rain stops...)

I hacked up an allen key so that I could put the 15, 16, 17T on without taking the motor out... it's a bit of a fight, but I'd rather do that than start drilling out my chassis or milling out the motor plate...

(cut off all but about 1/4" from the short side and you can slide it in the gear housing...)

You can use a long allen screwdriver to get at it without having to take the motor off too.

I get at it from the top. There is no way I'd drill a hole in the bottom to allow dirt/debris get in.

The guy with the heat problem have you looked at the back of the manual for gearing to get you in the ballpark?

Ya manual says 13/62 is good place to start and I did then went to a 14 had the same Temps ..ya I'm going to get a bunch of stuff on order h.t. pads and v2 slipper plate ,tekco hexes ect..

Check if you have binding in your transmissions. loosen up the screws a smidge and see if that frees up drivetrain some more.