R/C Tech Forums - SC10 4x4 Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Waldo183 (Post 9287065)

For the people with the Tekno alum axle hexes where do you put the shims? In between the rear hub and the hex?

When I bought my Tekno Alu hex set - It did not have the shims.
I used these: Traxxas 6x9.5x0.5 - 3981
I put one in between the hex and the outer bearing (Outer bearing, Washer, Pin then Hex) on all 4 corners.
Be careful with the cap head screws - can get easily stripped.
I stripped one already - So I upgraded them whith these:
PROTEK Cap Head Screw M2x5mm – PTK-H-1002
Much stronger - A little bigger and snug fit - works great.

This truck is really starting to come around for me. Felt great this past weekend....at least once I replaced the glazed slipper pads. :)

A couple tips (take em or leave em):

I had a lot of dust getting through the motor slots into the gear and belt casing as many others have. I found taping it or shoe-gooing it cumbersome so I took some spare 1/10th buggy foam cut some small strips and "crammed" it in between the motor and the gearbox from the motor side. That held up all day on a dusty track and very little to no dirt got into the casing. What's nice is that I don't have to remove it to make pinion adjustments.

Also, as many have pointed out tightening the wheel nuts down can make the plastic hexes rub on the bearing/hub. Even with serrated nuts, loosening the nut risks the wheel falling off. I added a 0.3mm washer on the outside of the bearing and that allowed me to tighten it down sufficiently. Worked great. I used Kyosho shims...this set comes with plenty of 0.1, 0.2, and 0.3mm shims all the 6mm axle ID.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...6x8mm-Shim-Set

[QUOTE=JEFFs SC10;9287378]

Quote:

Originally Posted by macke (Post 9286703)

Bro I love this color. :nod:

Looks nice, and I like that Flo-Tek body ...are you going to open up the vents to prevent it from sailing?

Anyone have any advice on the front wheels sticking a little after one full turn? It feels like when you try to turn wheels with a motor connected on a 2wd vehicle.

My rear wheels spin freely without issue, but the front have this problem, should I rebuild the front diff?

*Edit*

It seems as if it was the clicker that needed adjusting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pktdominic (Post 9286492)

Well it pains me to say this but hopefully by doing so I will save someone some of the same frustration I have had and hopefully will get some response from AE. First let me say I have bought almost ever type of kit from them from onroad, oval, truck, 18T, buggy 4wd buggy, sc, sc4wd and up to this point have loved every minute.

I built the kit and although had to make several adjustments with the drimel wasn't upset bc all my parts were there and I would have rebuilt the diffs and shocks anyway bc thats just how I am...I enjoy building the kit and knowing what I have.

Well the 1st weekend after buying the truck 2 days after its initial release I broke a rear shock tower coming off a jump...was it my fault...sure it was...was it a shotty custruction or kit, no...well I say no I only have 2 minutes of run time, but the kit seems solid.

So where is my problem, well I cant get a shocktower...heck I can't even get a call back from AE...I just have to keep calling till someone answers. Everyone is backorderd becasue they haven't released parts...I understand that they wanted to get the kit out, I really do but this is really poor planning and customer support and should have been rethought.

So why after weeks of waiting...calling and sitting waiting while others race am I posting? Because upon calling today after leaving to 2 messages regarding future parts availability, I finially get to talk to someone who says parts will be in next week...which is great...but wait...AE is closed next week due to inventory...they will be accepting the delivery and not sending out to distributors or selling for another week. This did it I am done with it...all I want is a part...I have spent $1000s on AE kits, electonics, batteries, and parts, been a loyal customer and this is what I get. My $1000s may be nothing compared to what some spend but for me it has been what I could spend and I chose them. Well no more...make it right or loose me forever I am done...I don't want anything for free just to be able to buy a part for the kit I bought from you so I can enjoy it maybe some follow up. If you have parts coming in you should make an exception and get them out. Your customers are what makes you. You are wrong.
Dominic

You do realize that every time any manufacturer releases a car, this happens, right?
It happened with the XXX-SCT, the SC10 4x4, it was even worse on the Ten SCTE...do you REMEMBER when the B2 came out? Holy crap.

The fact of the matter is you're letting years (decades?) of THEIR service to YOU as a racer hinge on one broken part.

ThunderbirdJunkie broke his rear shock tower last Friday. Big effing deal. He was trying to do backflips off one of the doubles at the track (didn't work out), so you must've done something EXTREMELY bad. Did you put the rear shock shafts in the front shock bodies, and then put those shocks on the rear? Something had to be up, because ThunderbirdJunkie's truck has taken a TON of HARD hits (oh, the pains of learning how to drive 4wd off road) and that shock tower - from the backflip attempts - has been the only broken part.

If you're so petty and trite you're willing to cut your allegiance to a company whose products you've used for THAT LONG over ONE PART and a COUPLE WHOLE WEEKS of lead time, so be it.

ThunderbirdJunkie will be concentrating on 2w stuff this weekend :)

I wonder if Thunderbird junkie refers to himself in the third person in real life.

To the dude with the shocktower problem, I feel your frustration but don't get stressed man, call some hobby shops someone has to have a shock tower available.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 9288535)

Rear shock towers haven't hit distributors at all yet, so nobody is going to have them; ThunderbirdJunkie has looked, too.

I used the F horn for my savox 1258tg servo as per instructions with the blue ring ( that was bloody hard to force on , needed pliers to get it on ) and first couple of batteries in it copped a good impact to a front wheel and moved the horn out of centre . it wasnt so much I couldnt pick it up with the trim and I have since loosened my servo saver but I am curious as to wether the horn is correct , anyone else had issues with this ? I have a new set of horns on order but does anyone know of any alloy aftermarket ones available yet ? Cheers.

Looks like Tower has some front sway bars....

Quote:

Originally Posted by MasiisaM (Post 9289034)

Looks like Tower has some front sway bars....

ABOUT TIME! I was just about to pack it up and never buy from A.E. again. :rolleyes:

Well I'm on my second build of my sc10 4x4, since my cousin hates building kits he bought mine and I ordered a new one...... Alls I can say is don't start building any kit after a long tiring day from work....... I had to take apart the steering assembly twice (this was after I had already put in the trans. and bolted it to the front chassis), but hey lesson learned and it was all my fault..... So now after about 3+hrs of a build I'm finally almost done...... I redid the shock oils to 32.5 front, 25 rear, diffs to 7k front and 5k rear..... I'll be running my mmp with the sc4x 5.5 tekin motor and a savox servo (glad I bought the bec from a user here, man that servo draws alot of power).......And gonna put on my 10dollar losi 8ight sways front/rear ;-)

I wanted to take it to the track by Thursday but unfortunately my barcodes won't be here on time so I'll probably wait until the weekend......

What gearing do you guys recommend I should run with my esc/motor on an indoor hardpacked clay track?

i need some help.

my rear gear diff leaks im using 7000k diff oil but it leaks all lot from the outdrives. any body have any way to fits this i try black greass but still dont work. thank you

Silly question. Has anybody tried to cram a 40mm dia motor in an SC10 4w?

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1o7x9 (Post 9289406)

i need some help.

my rear gear diff leaks im using 7000k diff oil but it leaks all lot from the outdrives. any body have any way to fits this i try black greass but still dont work. thank you

I have the same problem no idea what to do... Seriously what is up with the wobbling out drives AE?