yup im serious. im in the process of building mine and i removed every 4th tooth in hopes of freeing up the drivetrain.
You've never heard of this done in the past. i never did it with my xxx-4 but i know others did. And alot of people did it with touring cars.
maybe i should keep my crackhead ideas out of the forum :D

if i remember back in the day people were cutting belts inhalf

Well I dont assume I know everything, so if this is a legit idea , I'm all ears. You obviousely know things i dont, so keep them comming.

I forgot to mention im running outdoors big 1/8 style track loose dirt sand south louisiana mix lol seems ok at my friends smaller track. But still loose I've tried all of the tires I mentioned. Just ran with 30,000 front and 5000 rear seemed a little better. Up from 20000 3000 setup.

I did assemble the belt before hand and checked resistance then decided to do this, originally i was going to do every 3rd tooth but after looking at it i decided every 4th would be better. After cutting every fourth tooth off it did seem to have a slightly less resistance.
If i wasnt trying to get away with running a 540 set-up i wouldn't have done it.
my trackstart o-rings showed up today so i can finish my shocks and now im just waiting on a front sway bar (i know i can make one, but id rather not) and my body from my awesome painter.

i forgot to mention, im running on a indoor clay track thats starting to blue-groove.

How is that new San Diego indoor track? I'm going to run mine in Hemet with a 540 setup too. Never heard of someone cutting off teeth to free up resistance in a belt. Cutting in half sure, but that was to reduce rotating mass as much as it was to reduce friction. Sadly you usually had to increase tension to reduce belt slip since you were also reducing friction thus traction of the belt on the pullies. Then again, neither did any of the fast guys I raced with. Probably would have if they did. LOL

The new indoor track is getting really really good since we brought in just about 100% clay. before hand it was a little iffy but it didnt wear tires cause there wasnt much traction. Now with this new clay it hooks up pretty good and tires are now wearing.

Suggest using around 21 grams , mount it forward, left side.....

thanks. on a slightly different note, many people are liking the losi since it's heavier. im happy i can add weight since it's easier than having to take off.

I go by Ae Team driver's set-up's & advise .


So far I have heard of none of the other drivers adding extra ballast other then to off-set the battery.

This brings back the memories, this was popular on the Tamiya TA03 which is pretty much the exact same layout as this truck. Two 3 gear transmissions connected by belt. Also people used to soak them in WD40. I have not tried either method personally, let us know how it works. One of the hot upgrades on the TA03 was aluminum pulleys for less drag.

That's a tough call regarding modding the belt "like the good old days"

Back then with brushed motors running on NICD's you would almost have to..but now with the power we are seeing from LIPO's and brush less motors...

I cant see it helping all that much..Just my .02

Just found this awesome looking driver/overtray. My only problem is i would have even more heat issues. tempting though...
http://cgi.ebay.com/SC10-4X4-INTERIO...item2311a8cc0d

Thats pretty sweet, i almost think they should make it mandatory to have a driver to add to the realism.
Back in my slot car racing days the class i was in you had to have a driver in your body.
You might be able to mount it so it doesnt block air flow to the motor and esc.