R/C Tech Forums - SC10 4x4 Thread

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)

- Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)

- - SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadRussian (Post 9276984)

What a trip!
Raced yesterday until we got rained out.
RX8 and SC4X 5.5, a $59 Hobby People hard case lipo.

I practiced for 21 minutes on same battery. Came off at 145

Charged battery, it took 5000 mah, then another 270 for 5270 Mah total!!
Great packs, wow.

I run the same batteries. Only problem is there not roar approved if you race at a roar spec track. Also, check the prices around holiday weekends and when hobby people has sales going on. Ive picked one up for 44.99 before. Great batteries.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57 (Post 9276503)

The Castle 1415 is 70mm long. And my Ballistic 550 is 72.1mm... and the Ballistic fits fine. So the CC 1415 should fit, but may need some simple modifications. But note the end of the CC 1415 can is different shaped.

1415 doesnt fit for crap, it hits the chassis big time, u have to do some grinding to get the motor to sit right. the novak fits fine w/o any grinding.

Quote:

Originally Posted by offtraxx (Post 9277114)

I have all 4 of my diff outdrives are wobbling like a bad bearing. tore the entire truck apart and all the bearings are good. found the diff cases to be egg shaped at the holes. anybody else have this problem??

4 race days is all I got on the truck. AE will be getting a phone call tomarow.

Yes about the same on mine. I think AE did not use a lot of black grease on the shafts. Mine are not leaking though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Coupe (Post 9276960)

You guys racing on high traction surfaces. How big of a difference did you see when you installed a sway bar set.

Sway bars make a big difference, but lowering the roll center on high bite still needs to be done. I"m now running a hair over 4mm of washers on both ends. Still working on it.

I'd probably be closer, if I didn't work...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keeferton (Post 9277187)

Yessir, we sell those and get them from the wholeside side of Hobby People.
When they go on sale they are beneath normal Dealer pricing sometimes :lol:

I just bought some Gens Ace that are Roar approved just for that reason :)
If only we could get those wholesale, lol

What's up with the stock wheels on the rear filling up with dirt? I just glued a brand new set of enduros first trip out.I noticed the tires bulging in the center I pulled one off and it felt twice as heavy as it should have been. Im guessing the front tires ars throwing dirt into th rears??? The holes on the stock wheels seem really too big im thinking ca them closed after installed with tires and make new smaller holes. Im stumped I've never had this happen.with hundreds of tires I've ran. Any ideas is.it the wheels? How does the dirt get in there? I used my reamer and made three holes in the tire tread ran.again seemed like.they were a little lighter. I've got 3 sets.of new tires to.glue all with stock.wheels if its the wheels that's an issue there gone outta here for.sale

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarqueeRc (Post 9272744)

I keep hearing of people having a hard time with the slipper assembly..The first page states a fix to this issue..Have you guys put the recomended extra slipper thrust washers (more than the one supplied and instructed in the kit manual) that goes on b/f the slipper thrust bearing???As the first page states a some kits had there slipper thrust spacers not machined to spec size which causes the slippers to slip excessively..Hence the need to shim (with 2 or 1 extra slipper thrust washer) in front of the slipper thrust bearing..:nod:

Another possible reason that I have noticed for those having issues with the slipper assembly is that some assembled the slipper assembly incorectly by putting the slipper thrust spacer in the wrong or opposite direction..This has caused some to melt/burn out there slipper pads and eventually destroy there slipper thrust bearings..It changes the spacing in the assembly also, causing excessive slipping and messing up the alignment of other crucial components such as the belt..

Check that the slipper thrust spacer was put in correctly during the build...It kind of sucks that you have to take out the whole slipper assembly, the motor, and other rear components to get to the spacer..It's really not all that bad to get to it though..For those having issues with there slippers, check out that SLIPPER THRUST SPACER...It's worth a try, to see if that is causing your slipper issues imo...Good luck!!:nod::D

im having a problem overheating . will what u said above help lower the heat in the motor ?... im running 62 /13 and tried 14 but didn't help .also have belt loose as possible, clicker on , I'm going to pick up some more pinions 12/15 think i should try more high or low ? thanks any one!

try a 15/16 , go up not down.

whats the difference in the 3-3 and 3-2 D plates? one number is anti squat and the other is toe, but what number is what? i broke the 3-2 plate and had to install the other one. just wondering what i changed :D

The first # is toe in, second # is antisquat.

the first # is the toe in, the second is the anti quat.

Has anyone experimented to see which works better?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 9277917)

Has anyone experimented to see which works better?

More antisquat generally lets the rear rotate more off power, I haven't heard of one person that needs more off power steering with this truck:p

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Howard (Post 9277900)

The first # is toe in, second # is antisquat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by symmetricon (Post 9277904)

the first # is the toe in, the second is the anti quat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Howard (Post 9277929)

More antisquat generally lets the rear rotate more off power, I haven't heard of one person that needs more off power steering with this truck:p

thanks, thats what i thought but wasnt sure. i had a issue with rear traction yesterday. made a couple changes and then it started pouring, so needless to say i didnt get a chance to try it out. i think the 3-3 plate might be a small part of the problem too...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg (Post 9277281)

Yes about the same on mine. I think AE did not use a lot of black grease on the shafts. Mine are not leaking though.

i've got the same problem. I tore it down to thicken up the rear diff fluid and noticed that the outdrives were gummy and caked with dirt. I got it apart and found two of the screws would not come out of the diff to open it up. I needed to slot them and remove them with a screwdriver. Also, the diff was not dry but there was not nearly as much fluid as i put in there when i built the truck. i put it all back together with black grease on the diff gasket and noticed that the outdrives do wobble... i looked at the outdrives on the front diff and there is the same gummy caked dirt there so the front needs to come apart and be fixed too.