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quick question , is there any difference between the FT cvd's(shiny) and the stock cvds?
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9386657)
quick question , is there any difference between the FT cvd's(shiny) and the stock cvads?
a dollar for every time this question is asked since ae does shiny dogbones ;) |
Duhhh, shiney is faster!? Its quite apparent. Nah, i bent the sh*t out of on e and was wondering if there is a reason to buy the FT.
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i bent my stock ones as well. any aftermarket ones?
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Hope this isn't a repost but rcplanet.com shows they have sc10 4x4's in stock...
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Yellow Front Spring...
Originally Posted by kdub
(Post 9384892)
This is the setup that I worked on with the Wachter brothers Jonny and Clint. After the race was over, we learned some more and made the truck fast and easy to drive but it was too late...we'll get 'em next time.
To get the heavier rate front springs, you can also substitute original bronze RC8 front springs until our springs are available. They are a bit longer so it might not be possible to get 24mm ride height without removing a coil or two. |
Originally Posted by JFuel11
(Post 9386907)
This setup is close to what I am already running but I need the Yesllow springs badly! Are they for sale anywhere yet?
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 9379360)
So a while ago I mentioned something about dual stage pistns, well they will be availible soon, I have been helping test them out and the freakin rock. On a rough track they help out a ton in the rebound rate, equaling greater tracktion. Check em out at rcshox.com
Nothing??? |
I need some help here. Last night I drove at my local track (large 1/8 track). The car performed really good overall but... on the largest jump I always got some severe nose diving. The jump must be taken at a high speed and I was almost forced to hold full throttle in the air (from jump to landing) to not land on the nose. I'm having 35/30 AE oil in the shocks and lengthened the shock by two turns. What is the solution to avoid the nose dive? Put heavier oil in the rear? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by macke
(Post 9387506)
I need some help here. Last night I drove at my local track (large 1/8 track). The car performed really good overall but... on the largest jump I always got some severe nose diving. The jump must be taken at a high speed and I was almost forced to hold full throttle in the air (from jump to landing) to not land on the nose. I'm having 35/30 AE oil in the shocks and lengthened the shock by two turns. What is the solution to avoid the nose dive? Put heavier oil in the rear? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by macke
(Post 9387506)
I need some help here. Last night I drove at my local track (large 1/8 track). The car performed really good overall but... on the largest jump I always got some severe nose diving. The jump must be taken at a high speed and I was almost forced to hold full throttle in the air (from jump to landing) to not land on the nose. I'm having 35/30 AE oil in the shocks and lengthened the shock by two turns. What is the solution to avoid the nose dive? Put heavier oil in the rear? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Nope, yellow 4.8 rate spring...
Originally Posted by racer1812
(Post 9387275)
Are you talking about the pre production yellow springs run by AE drivers before the truck was released? They are the same as the "blue" springs that come on the truck...
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Best motor
Ok, I guess I'm getting back into electric RC just to have something I can race at the local track. I am about to order the SC10 4x4, and probablly a Castle 1410 motor. Before I place my order, I just thought I'd ask if the 1410 is going to work for me. I'll be racing on a small indoor track
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5OxTATiSQc and a very large outdoor track, that's a 5th scale in this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yAlmouBsU Is the 1410 going to be enough torque for the small track, while still being fast enough for the big track? I know I'll probablly have to change the gear ratio between the tracks. Also, I've seen a few speed controls reccomended with this motor, will one of them run cooler than the others? It gets pretty hot around here, and I'll need a speed control that can cope with air temps around 100 degrees. Thanks in advance for any help, Charlie. |
Charlie, the 1410 has more than enough power for whatever track you plan on running.I ran min with a hobbywing sc10 esc, which can be bought for 60-70$, and it ran nice and cool(120deg), btw live in Houston so you know its hot here. I recently switched to a MMP with a LRP 5.5T 550 and like it much more, much smoother, just mmy opinion. I like the bottm end smooth , than ad boost around 10000 rpm for some mid-range torque and top speed. but the 1410 is a solid motor.
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