I can say the losi strike is bad for sure and I've never tried it

I found Kody's to work in medium/low traction bumpy clay.

Dusty and wet on the same day.

I agree to a point, in this case however, there is a variety of opinion on the item being the bee's knees to a pile.

So in this case, its something worth trying. I had hoped to hear WC try it out but from what I understood the issue was that no one had it around him. As there appears to be people who have it around him, I was curious to get his honest opinion on the device from personal usage or at least driving someones vehicle.

Wait which of Kody's setups are for loamy? All I saw was indoor setups.

I would try the C diff, but I can afford to keep spending money hoping for improvements.

Thanks, my conditions (bear with me, my track description skills are not the best) would be:

DRY
- Low traction to slick
- semi hard packed with dust to loam off of the line
- bumpy
- big air 1/8 jumps

WET
- Sticky when reasonably watered to greasy when soaked
- Medium to high traction
- bumpy
- Big air jumps

usually, get more of the dry condition as the watering is done for the 2wds first, the 4wd SCTs run a lot later in the series of heats so by the time they go, its usually not wet at all.

Marcus' RC Shox starting setup did have A LOT of steering, very aggressive as you described. with a bumpy surface, I needed to go to a softer spring in the rear, whites felt good. Also went down on rear oil with his pistons.

His Center diff in these conditions though was money. Maybe it has something to do with it performing better in low traction conditions (even with the pins) than the VTS style setups?

When I ran my vehicle on similar conditions with my clutch basket, in comparison to the Center Diff the center diff would allow (at least, this is how I saw it) the front end to pull me through trouble spots were the clutch basket style setup would wash out in the rear.

When I see a good driver with that part have nothing but slow laps & failure to clear even simple jumps ?
Then see his times improve and make the jumps easy with VTS ?

I have to steer everyone towards the VTS ,Ok ?

You sure you don't run on my track lol.
Try Kody's setup with the C-diff and adjust diff fluids for it.

Good drivers like twitch and quick response cars. This mortal like slower response and more forgiving. And I have heard no one say the V2 C diff messes up jumping. You have to use the right amount of pins. Well that is my understanding.

i just did the brain kinwald set up.. made the truck very predictable and more consistent.. the rear end was not as loose as normal.. maybe this is the ticket for high bite indoor tracks.. but i cant say it will work for outdoor..

You could post a feeler to see if anyone has one they want to sell and get it cheaper. Ultimately though, that is what we do as racers if we can't tune it better, we have to buy the part (ex- VTS setup to correct the slipper problem if you didn't have a factory team truck)


Sounds more like a setup issue on the diff if he can't clear simple jumps. I Can easily clear big jumps here almost like the 1/8 E buggies do (ie- from dead stop).

Personally if it was me, I would have directed him to speak with RC Shox to see about helping him out. Like I would have done if he was having issues with his VTS.

maybe lol. If you search for Pingree ND RC on youtube I think there are some old vids of the track. Its layout is basically the same with a few changes. The main thing is that table top is pretty much unchanged, maybe bigger. Usually clear it and then some with the sc10 4x4 if I want, but since the landing is very hard, can be better to just downside the back end of it.

+1, that is what I am wondering if something wasn't done right, or if help is needed to contact RC Shox. Very helpful.

I was trying my truck at the track and hating it. and the fast guy drove my truck and said it was fine. So i guess he likes it all loose, but his driving style is like 3/4-full throttle everywhere. He just powers through the corners, I cant drive like that.

I was saving for some saddles, now I got a b4.1 so thinking I might just keep the stick pack setup for the truck. How many of you guys prefer stuck setup?

Is it the same to remove the blue coloring off of the titanium turnbuckles from the FT truck as it would be to remove the blue off of aluminum FT pieces? I was planning on using lye to remove it but want to make sure it would be okay on the turnbuckles

Stick pack is cool if you can get the right weight on both sides. I personally like saddle packs for my sc10 and shorty packs for my b4...........................