I am currently running 5mm with the stock hubs. if I raise the outside 8mm and dont raise the inside, what will the net effect be?

You are changing the diameter and pitch proportionately. All that really matters is the wire length, or how many free coils there are. I said "technically" because you are slightly cold hardening the spring, but since these springs are cold rolled and coiled, it really doesn't matter. The spring rate doesn't change.

Dang, you is smart, lol. All I read was ^&%^& 76^&%^& *^%&)_

:lol:

I typed that as I sit here running Finite Element Analysis (FEAs) for a Mitsubishi rear coil for one of their 2014 cars and doing a drawing check on another set of full size springs.

I am surfing RCTECH while I dial into conference calls. Mine sounds way more boring.

Yeah, but your's is probably a better excuse.

I have been nothing but happy with mine. I did the 8mm and made it even better. Other than that great performance with stock parts

This is the most recent setup posted on the AE website. I am trying to understand it better. What does the 19t pully up front due?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca..._JC_Spring.pdf

The 19 tooth pulley introduces 'overdrive' into the front. In short, the front tires rotate 5% faster than the rear. This is typically used to stabilize the truck on power, so you should definitely try it given how your truck handles.

Yeah, that might be something to play with. I am hoping the optional ack rack will help with the sensitivity at med/high speeds.

What tires are you running? I love to mix and match.

I dont have a lot of tires atm. I have a full set of Proline Snipers. These seem to work fine when the track is dry. I have a set of HB Beams Pink compound. These work decent when the track is wet. And i have the kit tires...Not really sure what good they are, lol. There is only 1 other sc10 4x4 at m my track, the rest are losi. I forget what the other sc20 4x4 runs. I think JC double D green, but I am not sure. He gave me his setup sheet, but I am at work. But he did odd things like, shortest link in the rear. I have not seen anyone run it like that. That helps the rear stick better in corners right? He also runs 40wt front and 25 weight rear oils. In generqal most people prefer a tire with a bar in the middle and square pins for the rest of the tire.


I must state that we do "night" racing. The first heat it is sunny, second heat the sun is down and the track is lightly wet, by the time we get to the mains, the track is very damp. When you walk on the track before the mains, its wet clay with a spring to it. But it does not fall apart, it holds together well. The first main might get some clay sticking to their tires, but everyone else will come off with no clay attached to the tread. No idea if this helps.

To answer an earlier question,, I haven't bent a single ball stud with 7.5mm of spacer's under it.

ok, cool. I am just going to see if i can find the studs local. I am really hoping the +8 mod, the yellow front springs and the optional ack rack fix most of my issues and help calm the truck down.

You don't NEED 8mm/7mm under the ballstud.. if you can't get them, try with 5mm (that works fine with the original ballstud) for now. Handling actually suffered with 7.5mm for me, while 5mm feels just right.