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ok, with the slipper nut off, how far down the shaft does the spring extend? How much of the shaft is showing? And with the pinion off does the drive train feel free? well as free as a belt is going to be...lol
Also, did you try the non vts slipper? does it do the same thing? Borack, are you able to take a picture of small video. I feel a strong NEED to see the situation. |
Also, does anyone know what the optional top shaft does different? Not the lightened one.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 10988547)
ok, with the slipper nut off, how far down the shaft does the spring extend? How much of the shaft is showing? And with the pinion off does the drive train feel free? well as free as a belt is going to be...lol
Borack, are you able to take a picture of small video. I feel a strong NEED to see the situation. |
I am looking at the manual now. It is a fairly simple installation. 2x thrust washers, a thrust bearing. then the rear pulley gear, the inner hub then slipper pad, spur and vts. The vts has 2 pads and a plate that sits between them. And you have 3x checked and all of these parts are installed. And both the front and rear wheels are slipping with the nut fully boomed out on the slipper? Back when I had the pre vts slipper it might slip a little with the nut all the way down and backed of 1/4 turn. But the vts is sooo much thicker and I run the nut with 2 threads showing and it is almost posi traction.
- have you tried the old top shaft? - how badly glazed are you pads? Are they like glass? |
Sounds like one of your top shaft spacer isn't seated right, inside the gear box. Part # 91017. Page 12 of the FT manual.
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hmm, why would that be the cause. If that were it , the shaft would bind no? the spacer sits between the bearing and the gear. If it were missing that would be an issue. But I would think with case would fully seat the spacer once assembled, or it would bind or cause the case to not seal correctly for sure.
I dont have the truck in front of me, but "if" he did indeed install everything correctly, I would still put the old top shaft in, reassemble making sure it is 100% correct and see if the issue persists. You could also compare the shafts side by side to make sure they are identical. |
Originally Posted by janga
(Post 10987348)
Sorry i could not post before
I have already tried putting them in under the sun gear but it means the pin holding them in doesnt go in properly:confused: Then use the 2 of the .2 shims under sun gear only .... Pin should fit just fine , but also check to make sure the out drive O-ring is seated. If not, can make pushing the pin though more difficult... |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 10988565)
Also, does anyone know what the optional top shaft does different? Not the lightened one.
91131 - lightweight top shaft 91180 - updated top shaft has an extra flat for use with 91188 coupled slipper hub (pinned top shaft) |
Ah, I figured it was something like that. I forgot that AE made the coupled inside hub. It makes sense a new shaft would need to be made. Does anyone really even run the coupled config? Also, is the exotek inside hub coupled or decoupled? I would assume decoupled, just no slip front end.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 10984191)
Snaf,
I was reshimming my front diff last night and was thinking of you. lol. When I work on the drive line, I check for binding every step of the way. I think you said the rear is binding. I checked my front and it was free rolling. But I remembered something while I was checking it. The tranny screws should have a washer on them to limit how far they go in. If they go too far they will rub on the pulley or other near by moving parts. I will be taking off my rear pulley when I install my exotek clutch locker and I will see if mine was like yours. In the general case, when ever you build a car, always check every moving part for smoothness all the way through the build. Hinge pins, shocks, tranny and etc. This is why I hate buying used cars. I have no idea what yahoo stuff the previous owner did to the car. I always end up tearing the used car down and fixing everything they did wrong. Anyway, check to make sure the tranny screws dont extrend past flush on the motor plate. |
I will hopefully be working on mine tonight also. Since my exotec hub is in. Going to reshim and do a diff tear down...ugggggggg. I will check my freeness once i get my rear pulley off.
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anyone going to the sc nats at rcmadness in Connecticut in early August ?
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lol, I have a half serious question. Where does the diff lube go? I put 30k lube in my front diffs 7 months ago. I read to fill half way, but i filled 3/4 full , let it rest and put it back to 3/4 full. This week I go to change the diff oil and it seems like 20% of the lube went away. It is not in my tranny case, no lube residue anywhere outside the diff. I am assuming it just settled into all the nooks and crannies of the diff. That being said, should you let the heavier diff oil settle into place a long time before closing it up?
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Originally Posted by BorackBasher
(Post 10988577)
i have like 4-5 threads showing... with the but off.. with the motor backed off.. i gave it a good push and it went about 10 feet.. everything is freely moving and smooth.. super quite last time i drove it with all the old hardware on.. all i wanted to do was change the top shaft out.. and this is my problem now.. ive been working on the truck for over a year now and im in a bind.. this is so weird!
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Glad to report I have sold my train wreck of an experience sc104x4
Compared to my other truck losi scte it was rubbish I did all the usual associated upgrade kit just couldn't get the truck to point straight on our outdoor track was nervous under powet and nervous off power! Hell I even wasted $50 on the rcshokz centre diff ( very minimal difference) Bye bye sc10 glad your gone! |
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